cooler07 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Hi all; I'm working on a Ferret that has part of an Jolly Electronic ignition, but is missing the ballast resistor. Anyone have a part number for it or an ohms rating? Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 James is it still the original coil? I know that some people have been tempted to change the coil as well & he would supply his own ballast resistor. But if you have an original coil, the ballast resistors are each 7.6 ohms, but wired in parallel give 3.8 ohms. The are made of Nichrome/Nickel wire so that once hot the resistance will increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooler07 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi Clive It looks like someone tried to put a jolly system in but didn't use the ballast resistor that comes in the kit. As far as I can tell the coil is new. I'm not familiar with the Jolly kit so I don't know what comes in it. On another thread here they show a ballast resistor mounted to the coil box, and have bypassed the original ballast resistor. I guess I need to ask can I use the original BR and do with out the other? Or do I need to purchase the kit ballast resistor? That's where I need to know the ohms for it. Hope this is making since! Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooler07 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 ooops That's Jolley electronic ignition system. Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 James I have fitted two Jolley B60 kits. All I wanted was the module although he seems keen to sell you a special coil. I assume that is one with a lower resistance now that the module can switch a higher current current & give more HT output. I assume this is a 12v coil so the ballast resistor should have the same resistance to ensure the coil is supplied with 12v. I don't see that always striving for a higher voltage is the ultimate goal, because it can encourage leakage through components made 50 years ago such as the rotor arm & HT cable although cable can be modernised. I just wanted an HT system to run much as nature intended but with a reliable replacement for the contact breakers, so run with the original coil. I think any standard 12v negative coil will do, easier if you try to get one with screw terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooler07 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Just to see if I have this right. The electronic ignition module is installed already. It has a coil installed, I'm not sure if it's new or original. So what your saying is use the original wiring from the junction box "on intake" ? Also I don't add a ballast resistor externally to the system? these pictures are from www.classicheads.com manual. One picture shows a external ballast resistor? Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFC1943Fl.Lt. Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 It all sounds very complicated to me. Mine still has the original set up and purrs away merrily. I was thinking of going down the electronic way but thought I would just see how she runs as it was ment to and I must say I am very happy as she starts on the button, all be it a bit of a task in this cold weather with the damp. But when running she's better than my works van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 James he's just shorted out the proper ballast resistors & fed it to his new ballast resistor & matching coil. I assume it is a new coil, not just because of the fuss about a special ballast resistor, but the coil looks shiny & unpainted. If it was mine I would reinstate the proper ballast resistors & fit the original coil or a normal 12v non-ballasted non-sports negative earth coil. The new coil I assume is a quest to get ever more HT but as I said before that increases the chance of electrical breakdown in 50-year old equipment that was not designed to operate at a higher voltage. I know there is advice to increase the plug gap but if you have RSN13P you cannot adjust the gap. I did for a while run with RSN12Y & opened the gaps but I found had starting issues when hot & returned to normal each time I fitted plugs adjusted as ooriginally intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooler07 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi Clive; Yeah the pictures are from the Jolley manual I got from Ferret sight, they are not the pictures from the ferret I'm working on. The Ferret I'm working on just has the new module installed. I'm just going to run the red wire from the module to a power source and leave the original BR and wiring the way it is. Thanks again Regards James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 If it has been half installed, just make sure that the ballast resistors have not been shorted out. The way to test this is to disconnect the CB lead from the coil to the module. Put a voltmeter between the coil SW terminal & earth. With the ignition on it should read 24v then connect the coil CB connection to earth then the reading should drop to 12v. May be higher than this but by design it reduces as the ballast resistors heat up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooler07 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 I check that out and let you know, Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njjeeper Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 When I installed my Jolly kit I didnt touch the coil or resistors. I left everything as stock and just replaced the points plate. The original wire from the coil went to the jolly plate and a 24 volt hot wire I brought in through the vent tubes to the distributor hooked to the hot side of the plate. Everything I read leading up to the conversion(much of it written by Clive!) led me to believe there was nothing gained by changing coils and resistors. My ferret runs 100x better now than it did with the points. The only down side to the coversion is the crazy price for the ignition kit :shocked: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Here is my Jolley set up at the end of this: http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/IGNITIONMATTERS.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooler07 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi njjeeper: That's exactly what I was looking for, the Ferret I'm on just has the module installed. This was done by someone else. When reading about this system, in the Jolly paper work then talked about a ballast resistor and coil, which I didn't think it would need, but if it did I would have to find one. Thanks again to all! I'll be finishing the install with original wiring and run a power wire. Cheers all and thanks again. Regards James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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