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Well, I got my Spark Plug Cleaner / Tester......


tankdriver

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Check it out ....... :D

 

IMG_1362.jpg

 

 

As shown in the TM9-834...

 

 

sparkplug%20cleaner....jpg

 

 

Only thing I can say is, Thank You, to my new best friend.. G503 member Frenchman.......

 

Couple things missing, If anybody has them PLEASE let me know......

 

Can of abrasise

6 plug adapters

3 gap tools

Battery clips

Manual for it.....

 

Thanks Again Frenchman.....

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Abrasive grit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPARK-PLUG-CLEANER-ABRASIVE-GRIT-1-PACK-/161153658127?hash=item258581ad0f:g:tEYAAOxypNtSie5c

 

But there are lots of US sellers that would be better for you.

 

Looks a fun machine, I have a more basic cleaner & it is jolly good at getting carbon off the insulator. If the plug is oily degrease it first. Only use it for just long enough to get the deposits off to avoid damaging the glaze on the porcelain.

 

I once thought that a plug that has been blasted, looks & behaves as good as new. But this is not the case, it will perform worse than a plug that has just been brushed, filed & adjusted. In that it will need a higher voltage to get a spark.

 

The problem is that the blasting rounds the electrodes & this makes it more difficult for a spark to jump the gap, so a higher voltage is needed. So what I do is after blasting, sharpen up the electrodes with a plug file & gap them, followed by a good blast of air to dislodge flings & any grit.

 

The least voltage required to jump the gap is of course a brand new plug.

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Abrasive grit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPARK-PLUG-CLEANER-ABRASIVE-GRIT-1-PACK-/161153658127?hash=item258581ad0f:g:tEYAAOxypNtSie5c

 

But there are lots of US sellers that would be better for you.

 

Looks a fun machine, I have a more basic cleaner & it is jolly good at getting carbon off the insulator. If the plug is oily degrease it first. Only use it for just long enough to get the deposits off to avoid damaging the glaze on the porcelain.

 

I once thought that a plug that has been blasted, looks & behaves as good as new. But this is not the case, it will perform worse than a plug that has just been brushed, filed & adjusted. In that it will need a higher voltage to get a spark.

 

The problem is that the blasting rounds the electrodes & this makes it more difficult for a spark to jump the gap, so a higher voltage is needed. So what I do is after blasting, sharpen up the electrodes with a plug file & gap them, followed by a good blast of air to dislodge flings & any grit.

 

The least voltage required to jump the gap is of course a brand new plug.

 

I am hoping I can find somebody who has a original can setting around. It included a bag of grit.

 

The 2 holes up front is for testing. You put a new in 1 hole and the one you just cleaned in the second hole set the air which acts like compression, and compare the spark in the mirror.....

 

Pretty neat.....

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Yes that's super being able to test under compression. I wish I could find an easy way to simulate such a test.

 

Often people see a spark at the plug & assume that it be able to produce a spark in the engine. But that will depend on the plug & what the coil can deliver. Also determined by the engine's compression ratio, although its not just the pressure alone it is the gas density which of course depends on mixture. I can't see an easy or safe way of simulating that!

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