Wolf turn light audible warning

[fv1609]

The Wolf turn light warning light is extremely dim, no doubt there are good tactical reasons for this. Similarly the clicking of the turn light flasher is inaudible when in motion. The consequence of this is that it can be dangerous when turning left onto a main road if I don’t realise that the turn indicator is still operating. Sometimes on minor roads a driver will pull out in front of me resulting in a near accident as the driver believed it was my intention to turn left allowing him to pull out without our paths crossing.

 

I needed to fix a warning buzzer of some sort. Most of the ones I have seen were delicate piezo-electric devices operating at 12 volts. The Wolf is of course 24 volts irrespective of whether it is a GS or FFR.

 

I was looking for something that was for 24 volts and sturdy. I found this military buzzer and as I found it had a Scammell part number as well thought it was ideal. NSN 6350-99-794-4345 and other part numbers are 1049688, 49688C, ACU6723.

 

 

It is not an electro-mechanical buzzer as it is polarity sensitive so I assume it is piezo-electric. It works equally well on 12 volts as 24 volts.

 

 

The Wolf circuit diagram is not especially helpful as the turn light flasher is disguised as “Hazard Warning Relay”. The first step was to disconnect the earth terminal of the battery, then remove the fuse box cover and unscrew the fuse box support bracket (but not the fuse box panel itself).

 

 

The relay is black and located on the left side. It can be released by jostling it upwards as it is just a push fit. Turn the relay upside down to get optimum access to the wires feeding the socket. Identify the two wires that are pale green and the pale green with brown trace.

 

 

Attach an additional bleed wire about 4 inches long to each of these two feed wires by using “Scotch” type connectors. Ensure that the bleed wires are of a similar thickness to the feed wires. Otherwise it can give rise to a defective connection if the wire is not thick enough then the jointing blade in the connector cannot effectively penetrate the insulation and make a reliable contact to the thinner inner wire.

 

 

To the end of each bleed wire attach a Lucar blade connector and observe the polarity to the buzzer, as it will not work the wrong way round. Allow the buzzer to dangle downwards so the sound can exit the base of the fuse bracket. Screw it all back together and reconnect the battery earth. Check that the buzzer works with turn lights then go out for a drive and assess whether the sound level of the buzzer is to your requirements.

 

 

When you have parked up, if you want it louder pull the buzzer down lower but if it too loud push it back inside the fuse box a bit or even put a bit tape over its aperture.

 

Although the Defender uses a 12 volt system, looking at the circuit diagram it appears to work in a similar manner. This particular 24 volt buzzer still gives a very good output on 12 volts. It was obtained on eBay for £5, there are other buzzers around that would do the job. But finding 24 volt versions does limit the market.

 

Copyright 2012 Clive Elliott (I have done this as it might form the basis of a club Newsletter article for those who are not online)

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Clive,

 

That will probably be a low air warning buzzer off a truck. I have used these on 12v instead of a warning lamp on some of my restorations. As you say, it depends on its location as to how effective it is.

[fv1609]

Richard I wondered what they were used for given that one number was a Scammell number.

 

Of course fitting a buzzer is not rocket science but for at least 10 years I have been meaning to get round to do it on the Defender of the time. The difficulty was taking the time to think of where best to get into the loom & do battle with all those horrible bits of plastic!

[Amphibi boy]

That buzzer is fitted to the leyland drops!