AndyFowler Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 ouch thats expensive !! i have read through the oil guide on here and just to check it wouldnt be happy on the multigrade 10W/30 would it ? ill have to have a think about this one if its setting me back as much as the £50 mark Hi Richard , 5 litres of engine oil seems to be around the twenty pound mark nowadays so I thought that was the cheapest way to buy it ! I personally would get her running first if the existing oil is not absolutely shot and then you will not be contaiminating your new expensive stuff with possibly a faulty fuel pump or just excessive fuel down the bores before she fires up ! Good luck anyway mate ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 machine mart do 5 litres sae30 for 15 quid Yes mate, but Clive confirmed 13.6 litre capacity, hence 3x5 litre containers needed. That would be £45.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Adam in what respect did you find them better? Easier starting/more power/smoother running/more reliable/able to set the gap bigger? I don't have a particular angle on the subject, but just curious as I run RSN13P. PS Super pics Chris thank you. I'll take some pics on Mon It starts alot better, but that maybe due to the fact the original plugs werent up to much (They were the type with the tiny side electrode and looked like they had seen some miles) i have them gapped as per the book, what i have noticed is, they are less likely to foul up at idling when the engine isnt up to temp, and less likely miss, before i changed them, you would get the odd miss during idling, these have cured that. As for power and smoothness, not exactly noticeable but in the words of a large supermarket chain "every little helps!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Hi Richard , 5 litres of engine oil seems to be around the twenty pound mark nowadays so I thought that was the cheapest way to buy it ! I personally would get her running first if the existing oil is not absolutely shot and then you will not be contaiminating your new expensive stuff with possibly a faulty fuel pump or just excessive fuel down the bores before she fires up ! Good luck anyway mate ! thats the thing the oil level is over full and smells of petrol leaving me with the question of what to do . i just want to get it running but dont want the fuel in the oil to circulate and damage anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Oil can smell a bit petrolly, especially if it has only been started and ran for a short while, as unburnt fuel while on choke gets past the rings, however if the pump diaphragm is goosed, petrol will get into the engine block, if you want to try and fire that mix up, it could get interesting in a loud and hot way. You may want to drain it out and stick some cheap no brand 20-50 oil in until you get it running right, then drop it out and put in the right stuff, it will give the engine a flush out, and it wont go bang! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 thats the thing the oil level is over full and smells of petrol leaving me with the question of what to do . i just want to get it running but dont want the fuel in the oil to circulate and damage anything. I would drain the oil down to the correct level ! Get her to start and see if the oil level rises ! Then replace the oil and also the diaphragm if necessary ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Ask at you're local garage which company supplies there oil, they won't be using tesco style refills they will buy in bulk. I use this supplier in Bury http://www.crownoil.co.uk/index.php just an example Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 I would drain the oil down to the correct level ! Get her to start and see if the oil level rises ! Then replace the oil and also the diaphragm if necessary ! im only going to feed the petrol in via a squeezy bottle so if the diaphragm was leaking i wouldnt be able to tell ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protruck Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 hi Richard. Try your local Unipart Automotive dealer. I normally pay around £35 for 20ltrs 10w30, and they have also supplied me with an SAE 30 oil in the past. Hope this helps. clive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 im only going to feed the petrol in via a squeezy bottle so if the diaphragm was leaking i wouldnt be able to tell ? Once you know she starts like that you will eventually connect up the vehicle fuel supply correctly though I guess , so when she's running on that , that'll be the time to change the oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Once you know she starts like that you will eventually connect up the vehicle fuel supply correctly though I guess , so when she's running on that , that'll be the time to change the oil yeah thats the plan after lines are made up ! so am i right in saying - i should change oil for some cheap 20/50 stuff now. Then once she is running and the fuel tanks are installed ill moniter the oil for petrol and change diaphragm if leaking otherwise put proper SAE 30 in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 yeah thats the plan after lines are made up ! so am i right in saying - i should change oil for some cheap 20/50 stuff now. Then once she is running and the fuel tanks are installed ill moniter the oil for petrol and change diaphragm if leaking otherwise put proper SAE 30 in. Unless the oil is very dilluted with the petrol I personally would not waste money changing it twice ! I would get it running just to ensure that it will start and then replace the oil when I knew it was gonna be worth it ! That is just an opinion from someone who has not seen the condition of the oil on the dipstick though so if you have a doubt about it go with your instinct mate ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 My ferret had alot of petrol in the oil when I first got it. It had been running with choke (I know its not a choke exactly) disconnected and left half open. It may not be the fuel pump diaphram at all which is a cheery thought Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 yeah thats the plan after lines are made up ! so am i right in saying - i should change oil for some cheap 20/50 stuff now. Then once she is running and the fuel tanks are installed ill moniter the oil for petrol and change diaphragm if leaking otherwise put proper SAE 30 in. I would dismantle the fuel pump & inspect the diaphragms. Very likely you have a fault there & ensure the choke is turned off. I would not attempt to run it knowing you have fuel in the sump. I once discovered I had this when there was an explosion that blew the dipstick 50 ft into the air, lucky there was no other damage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 If you have contaminated oil it is too expensive to change more than once if you dont have to, but there is another way. Drain it all out into a clean container, and let the muck settle out, then pour off the 'oil' into another container, checking that there is no water in the bottom of it. If you can smell petrol in it, leave it in an open top, ventillated container IN A SAFE AREA which will allow the volatile petrol content to evaporate. Let it sit there till you need it, then pour it back in, taking care to avoid any extra dirt which may have settled meantime. If you can get the engine to start and warm up, then repeat this process, you should have oil you can use till you are confident you can change it out for new. So, safety when pouring, storing, and particularly when it is ventillating, dispose of any residue dirt, water, etc, etc in accordnace with good recylcing practice, and you shouldn't even be out of pocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 I would dismantle the fuel pump & inspect the diaphragms. Very likely you have a fault there & ensure the choke is turned off. I would not attempt to run it knowing you have fuel in the sump. I once discovered I had this when there was an explosion that blew the dipstick 50 ft into the air, lucky there was no other damage! on that note i think i should drain it off and try what Gordon_M said. Thanks so much for the advice because the last thing i want to do is crack the sump or damage the oil pump etc. so agreed that i should drain off the oil doing what Gordon_M suggested ? then refill with the old filtered stuff and try to start, if she starts then warm engine up ? Then after fuel tanks are in place dismantle fuel pump and assess diaphragms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 so am i best of buying a huge socket for it or just using a large adjustable spanner? dont wanna round the thing as its only brass. Changed my oil and filter today Richard , sump plug is 1" 5/16 AF :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 Right switchboard wired in , bought new set of plugs , oil drained and tested - low viscosity and smelt of petrol but not combustable so left in heat of the sun then re used to right level. I put in some oldish batteries and the yellow light on the switchboard came on ? I tried to turn the engine over using the switchboard but nothing happened. the spark plugs where out to make it easier for the starter motor. I'm charging batteries tonight incase it's just that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Richard when you say nothing happened at start up did the yellow light (oil pressure) stay on just as bright or did it dim/extinguish? If it is the former you need to check with a bulb test prod that when you turn to start you have 24v on SOL lead that comes from switchboard. If ok then take lid of Ignition Junction Box & check SOL there. If ok undo multiplug on starter itself & check pin A Also of course check you have 24v on the main solenoid terminals that are permanently connected to the batteries. If it was the latter then thats a battery problem, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 Richard when you say nothing happened at start up did the yellow light (oil pressure) stay on just as bright or did it dim/extinguish? If it is the former you need to check with a bulb test prod that when you turn to start you have 24v on SOL lead that comes from switchboard. If ok then take lid of Ignition Junction Box & check SOL there. If ok undo multiplug on starter itself & check pin A Also of course check you have 24v on the main solenoid terminals that are permanently connected to the batteries. If it was the latter then thats a battery problem, thanks for quick reply , the oil pressure light came on , attempted to start it and nothing happened but the yellow light went out/dimmed, then when i stopped it came on again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 turned out to be batteries which is good ! two charged batteries in and the starter motor turned it over easily, nearly fired up but not quite, smoked and popped as expected. not sure on how much fuel i need to feed in and what technique to use ? here is a quick video - any suggestions on how to get it started ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) humber is now started. The chokes in its first position and the petrol is being fed from a litre bottle but is very thirsty. The revs stayed around 1000rpm without the throttle being touched atall. i tightened the clamp slightly on the fuel line and the revs dropped slightly to 750rpm with the choke still on but throttle untouched. when i warm it up properly and release the choke will the idle reduce to normal? coolant guage fixed corroded connections needed a clean up. Barracade Ram rubbed down fully then painted in rust inhibitor Edited August 28, 2011 by richard sweeney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard sweeney Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) started her up, ran for a few mins before springing a leak from carb. its leaking near the accelerator linkage but not sure why. any ideas ? Edited August 28, 2011 by richard sweeney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 started her up, ran for a few mins before springing a leak from carb. its leaking near the accelerator linkage but not sure why. any ideas ? It has a seal at the pivot point on the shaft and from memory on the opposite side of the carb as well. Rebuild kit needed I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 The seal on the shaft isn't the main issue. Is suggests to me it is getting flooded by failure of the accelerator pump diaphragms. They have either gone brittle & cracked or are porous. This would explain the high revs & high fuel consumption. Take off the side panel cover but first detach the choke lever arm. Then the peripheral screws if the diaphragms are shot there will be fuel in this chamber. To inspect the diaphragms remove the 4 screws over each pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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