daz76 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 It's good to get a bit of previous history for the vehicle. Thanks for the info Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I think I just joined the french mv owners Club! :cool2: This week this bought a 1958 simca unic fromt he isle of wight--according to the owner its the one out of the mueseum there! anyone with tech manunals or good parts contacts id be very interested to hear about them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Mitch RR services in Ashford http://www.rrservices.co.UK hold some new old stock parts in the UK - ass.service.national on e-Bay in France has SUMB bits and will ship to the UK (slowly and not cheaply though) Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Thanks Ian,, thats very helpful. dont suppose you would know what all the switches on the dash do? I have figured most out but theres a few that so far defy explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Hi Mitch I have the drivers manual when at my desk PC - will sort something for you tomorrow with translations - if you google MAT 2719 and MAT 4155 there are individual JPEG scans of all the drivers and workshop manuals on a site something.free.fr as collections of ZIP files but for copyright reasons I should make my own drawing in order to post it here I think. Originally I think all the round switches had a symbol sticker on top but only the horn one has survived on mine. Two things to beware of 1) all lights including brake and indicators are off with the switch pointing straight up 2) the dip / main button on the floor is also active when the main light switch is in sidelights position when it goes between side and main beam Things to check based on mine and other experience are 1) fuel pump 2) brake light switch (on back end of air operated cylinder behind air tanks) 3) steering linkage nuts are secure 4) oil seal on input shaft to transfer box 5) leaks from brake cylinders inside drums 6) temperature meter sensor and pressure meter sensor connections to engine block are secure 7) air brake holds pressure at 8-9 on meter after a week and air can be heard when pedal pressed with engine off Regards Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) HI Ian,, thanks for the list,, and the manuals will earn you undying gratitude and a tow anytime you need it! so far mines been running a little rough and a tad gutless, so I have been concentrating on making it run sweetly, to start with so far i have been working my way through the fuel system cleaning the filter and blowing the pipes through, the crud in the filter was truly impressive and there was some water too. The fuel pump seems to be in very good condition and had no detritus trapped in it, I must confess I am somewhat eager to tear the carb apart and give it a big clean too, though that seems to be working just fine right now and as the pump was clean im guessing the carb is too, so im letting it alone for the time being. next on the list 1. distributor is not satisfactory--its loose and two of the screws holding it on wont tighten. I plan to take it off---give it all a very thorough clean out and then re-tap the screw holes and replace the screws so it sits on nice and tight. im also going to change all the plugs over, and if i can the HT leads too. i must confess im somewhat daunted by all the protection they have. im pretty confident with these things sorted mine should run as sweet as you like. Oil and other fluids--I have dipped and examined the oil, i was pleasantly suprised to see it was at a good level and the oil on the stick looked very clean and healthy. im still going to change it, but at least its not running on treacle. the rad is in excellent condition and the waters very clean and has no froth--im very encouraged and im also happy that the hoses all look to be in very good order. I was certain on my way home i was going to have trouble with hoses blowing, just happy to be pleasantly suprised they didnt. lights on mine all work bar a single back light (bad bulb) and a main beam bulb, but apart from a couple of dash instruments that appear to have been disconnected the electrics are in first rate condition, touch wood. Interestingly--the light settings panel is very similiar to the one in my munga, so i had no trouble figuring it out and floor mounted main beams is an old freind, a lot of yanks have the same as does my munga, though its position is a tad odd-mines right uner the brake pedal. all the convoy lights work, though some spoil sport seems to have disconnected the infra red headlights. one thing i noticed looking at the pics of yours is that the llight setting switch in yours appears to be metal, while mines rather bendy plastic. The brakes are an aquired taste i must admit, though i have gotten the hang of them now, they perform very well indeed for a vehicle of this ones age. though tonight while moving it away from my garage the dump valve for the compressed air became stuck during a vent and dumped all the air. I dont think anythings broken it just got stuck, so now im going to take apart and thoroughly clean and service that particular unit. im glad it went while being shunted rather than on a motorway. gut feeling is that had that happend a good wallop with something might have freed it. Up to this point its pressure seemed to be ok--though to be fair i have only had it since wednesday. I am worried that the bottles themselves look quite corroded, id be happier changing them for new ones. As for leaks,, not a drop out of place so far, it all looks very good. I will be checking the fluid levels for that and possibly changing them but again at present while it works fine its on the list behind a few other jobs, the oils seal input you mentioned-seems to have a bit of a leak, nothing tragic but enough to leave its mark everytime its parked for more than half an hour. at the moment i will let it alone while over more pressing isues get attended too, but long term i will try to renew both that seal and all the diff seals and gaskets as they all seem a little weepy. I havent even seen the pressure and heat sensors you mentioned, but now i know they exist, rest assured they will be hunted down and checked. out of curiosity, where abouts are the heater controls, mines on flat out all the time and with that big old v8 chucking its heat out, the cabs like a sauna, id actually pay to be able to turn it off! Edited October 2, 2011 by mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Hi Mitch The fan is furthest right in the top row of switches - hot cold is a manual push pull below and left of the air brake panel. I've had an occasional problem with an air dump valve that stayed open when knocked - manually exercising it a few time cleared that. Regarding Headlights I do get a class VII MOT done on mine - first time round they failed on pointing wrong way - early Range Rover headlights are a perfect left pointing replacement (and I have a couple of French ones stored somewhere if you prefer !!!). The sensors I am thinking of are in the manifolds - there is a pin sticking out which should have a female plug fitted over it - I find they are loose and need a squeeze to stay on. I had a problem with my fuel pump after leaving the system dry for longer than intended (long story - took mine to car wash as soon as I got it and ended up with fuel/water mix in the tank due to a failed solder joint between the filler tube and the tank proper - after drying out I guess the diaphragm perished and a new pump was called for). Every known V8 SUMB seems to lack urge going uphill - if you find the cause I and others will be grateful. Mine seems to have a mechanically sound distributor and a healthy carburettor and no sign of sparks around the leads - I am minded to suspect gaskets and plan on a compression test before long. The free manuals have moved slightly from where I remembered - now PDF and at: http://armytrucks.free.fr/cariboost_files/marmonTM.htm the drivers/first line service manual is MAT2719 http://armytrucks.free.fr/cariboost_files/tm/MAT2719 .pdf The dashboard is described on document pages 12 & 13 (scanned page 8) key to numbers in English Figure 2. 1. Dial light for air brake panel 2. Brake air pressure warning 3. Brake air pressure gauge - should read 8-10 in operation 4. Main Beam indicator light 5. Master light switch 6. Lighting selector 7. Start Button 8. Indicator confirmation light - vehicle 9. Fan on/off 10. Diff Lock Warning 11. Accessory power socket 12. Choke 13. Hand Throttle 14. Wiper on/off 15. Horn Button 16. Indicator confirmation light - trailer 17. Indicator switch 18. Panel light switch Figure 3. 1. Mechanical Hot/Cold control for fan 2. Oil pressure gauge 3. Oil pressure warning lamp 4. Main panel lamps 5. Water temperature gauge 6. Water temperature warning lamp 7. Speedometer and Odometer and Trip Meter 8. Fuel Gauge 9. Main panel Lamp 10. Ammeter I will draw up a diagram and post it here tomorrow There is a link to the workshop manual MAT4155 as well at the same site. Hope this helps Iain Edited October 2, 2011 by g0ozs reformatting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Thanks for that mate, the manuals are first rate! I have downloaded the manuals and have started translating this one http://armytrucks.free.fr/cariboost_files/tm/MAT2719%20.pdf though its going to take a long time to complete, also thankyou for the dash rundown, thanks to you i now know how to shut off the heater! thats a real relief. the gutless running issues, well mines pretty bad--it goes down to walking speed on a steep hill and wont break 30 on an incline, having pretty much eliminated the fuel from the equasion I think my issues are most likely to be distributor and spark related, though your probably not wrong to want to test compression as well. it cant hurt. i think the biggest hint as to whats wrong with mine is that its economy is really dreadful---4-5 mpg at present. i would think around 12mpg would be more the mark if mine were running healthy. ah well fixing it up is a big part of the fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Mitch I calculated about 10mpg bringing mine home from Cambridge last year which is the longest run I've done (60 miles used about 1/2 of the 60l I put in at the first filling station I passed) so yours is definitely worse. The previous owner said it had fouled plugs but that turned out not to be the case on examination - I do hear a phut-phut noise from the breather pipe at lower right which is why I suspect a gasket or piston ring on mine Regards Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 (edited) Mitch, all The SUMB dashboard diagram and key is now available Enjoy! Iain Edited October 3, 2011 by g0ozs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 thanks for the dash schematic, its handy being able to identify all the lights and dials, i have been painstakingly translating the text from one of the manuals you linked me too--i dont know if you have translated any of it yourself but if you want ii can send you each bit as its been completed. (it wont be in order as i am concentrating on the bits that are relevant to what i am currently doing--but it all helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Mitch All translations gratefully appreciated - I will send my real email by PM - I have had colleagues at work and ham radio friends in France translate odd pages as required but I didn't ever do French at school (I did German - should have bought a Unimog ) and I rely on the diagrams in MAT4155 mostly. Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 (edited) my french is somewhat--inadequate, so i am copying the french text onto google translate and then making a new document in word--with the diagrams copied and pasted over, its working quite well so far though its a slow process. below is an example of how well its working out., D) OPERATION VALVE APPLICATION (FIG63) through the orifice (a) receives the rubber diaphragm on the top surface air pressure from air-pak. The annular chamber © communicates through the orifice (d) with the atmosphere, the chamber (b) communicates with the independent brake valve and the chamber (e) with the auxiliary tank. when the pressures on both sides of the diaphragm are about to equalize. it returns to its equilibrium position close to leaving under the action of the springs (3 and 4) the intake valve (2). valve and allows application to instantly tap the brake Merne direct pressure than that provided by the secondary reservoir. of the driver lowers the stress on the brake pedal, the air-pak reduced pressure © until the two pressures are balanced by (a) and (f). accelerated application valve and the exhaust air cylinders of the wheels of the trailer then acting quick release valve. Edited October 4, 2011 by mitch spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 (edited) just taken all the spark plugs out of mine-- wow what a motley crew they are--each one a suprisingly complex three peice affair and all are heavily caked in a mix of rust and coke--with one soaked in petrol--a definate candidate for the weak performance. the plugs them selves are so different to any i have seen commercially i doubt will be able to cheaply replace them so instead i am going to renovate them. hopefully that will improve the running a lot! two of the plugs Edited October 4, 2011 by mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 alleight plugs cleaned--regapped and back in thier respective holes and the engine is now running as sweet as you like,, though we did find on the presure test that the left bank was running about 30 psi lower than the right bank, going to leave it at that for now as it seems to be happy enough,, next on list fixing the release valve on the brakes system--its got what looks like a rubber bung out of position--so tomorrow im diss assembling it and sorting it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Hi Mitch I'm glad the plugs were all that needed doing. My SUMB came with civillian NGK plugs so the thread is at least standard - what someone has done is cut the shielded plug leads about 3 inches short of the plug and joined them to the ends of normal plug leads. I have looked carefully for sparking in the past and seen none so I don't think it contributes to the low power of my engine. I'll check the NGK part number and do a photo of the leads next time I have the bonnet open. I'd be interested to know the actual pressures you got for left and right banks so I have something to compare with mine when I get round to pressure testing ? Regards Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 HI Iain, first off got to say thanks for the link to RR services, I was up there this saturday and managed to get a decent spare wheel and tyre, a complete dashboard unit (i only want parts for two switches) a complete air release thingy for the brakes and a seat cushion, all for £100 only thing I am still looking for now is a new window winder mech for the passenger door, though im still hopeful about my chances of successfully repairing the one i already have. Pressure on engine was 105 psi for the right bank (from the cab looking forwards) and about 75 for the left. the chap at RR services tells me thats fine and its not bad enough to need fixing. so far so good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Hi Mitch I photographed my civillianised plug leads as promised - I will need to wait for more time and daylight to extract a plug and get the NGK part number that fits the engine I have always found RR Services very helpful by phone - a trip there is on my to do list for next year. If you need more wheels let me know - I have a complete spare set. Regards Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 that looks like a pretty good setup with the plugs--i take it they have a good spark showing? anytime you want to go to RR let me know--your only up the road from me and i would be happy to share the cost by coming up with you, odds are i am going to need more bits at some time in the future, im also starting to store away the faulty bits i remove--so i might be able to help out with the odd component. wheels wise im groovy but thanks for the offer, i nearly popped my button lifting the sod into the back of my monster so the thought of a whole new seat just fills me with fear! mitch, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 my berliet tipper is a god send, its totally reliable, now we have a new air valve and runs as sweet as can be...bit of rust but i will fix that in time....still not founf a berliet TBU in good nick though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 hi paul,, yuo got a picture of it? i cant say i have ever seen one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 after a very succesful test run today where everything worked well---and it accellerated up even steep hills! i was just parking up and feeling triumphant/smug when i broke the sodding window winder.. now got two to fix. I have decided that as they seem to be fragile stock im going to modify them so they are (a) a heck of a lot stronger) and (b) a lot easier to fix) other than that im very chuffed. g0oz,, are you an essex mvt member? if you are im thinking of going to their monthly meet at the bell this month, if your there I recon I owe you a drink for the RR link you gave me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hi Mitch Please post a picture of the window winder repair/reinforcement here when you do it - I have been lucky so far but I guess a preventative mod would be a good idea! I should join the Suffolk MVT (I am north of the River Stour by 500 yards!) but have limited free time in the evenings and haven't got along to a meeting yet. I will be out at the SAHS military vehicle display just East of Ipswich on Sunday all going well if you get this far north, however .. See: http://www.comberenterprises.co.uk/apps/Contao/suffolk-aviation-heritage-group-news-item/items/autumn-vintage-vehicle-day-sun-16-oct.html Regards Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I shall do, at the moment im thinking of just making a simple pull up handle as oppose to a wind up one, the mech in the standard ones a bit complex and a bitch to open -- lots of rivets overlapping important bits, but im also considering putting in the mech out of somehting else--just a question of finding something suitable.. id love to come sunday but im off shooting folk at the "secret nuclear bunker" sunday --the simcas carting a load of us up there. should be a good photo op,:cheesy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g0ozs Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hi Mitch Is that the Kelvedon Hatch bunker ? Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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