Mk3iain Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 Hi all I need to change the front wheel bearings on my Milly 3 wrecker. Has anyone done this? Do I need to strip the swivel housing from the axel? and how is it lubed, is it by axel oil or grease packing? Any special tools required? Also need to fix the swivel pin on the steering hyd. ram that connects to the hub arm, it is slopy! how is this done? is there a kit? Lots of questions I know but any advice appreciated. Cheers Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk3iain Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 I am just going to go for it! I have the manual for a Mk3 GS truck and the axle seems the same. Does not mention changing wheel bearings as a job but describes a hub removal/fit, and it looks like the hub is greased packed, not 100% sure but got to get it done. Need to be at Castle Frazer tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Sorry Ian only just seen your post, yes it is an easy job just follow the GS manual. Bearings are greased and the seal is standard size nothing unusual. Make sure you have it on some decent axle stands; if you are working on your own you might find a pallet truck handy in removing the wheel. Let us know how you get on with some pictures please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk3iain Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 Sorry Ian only just seen your post, yes it is an easy job just follow the GS manual. Bearings are greased and the seal is standard size nothing unusual. Make sure you have it on some decent axle stands; if you are working on your own you might find a pallet truck handy in removing the wheel. Let us know how you get on with some pictures please. So far, not so good! I have stripped down the o/s hub to find the swivel bearings also shot. The grease was dried up like clay and all the bearings are well gone. I have the main bearings and am getting the swivel bearings except that the lower set are an odd size (1.625 x 3.875 x 1.219). I made a big mistake by letting the wheel fall flat on the ground and hugely underestimated the weight of it, oops! Will take some pics tomorrow as I am going to strip and prep both hubs. Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 (edited) Hi allI need to change the front wheel bearings on my Milly 3 wrecker. Has anyone done this? Do I need to strip the swivel housing from the axel? and how is it lubed, is it by axel oil or grease packing? Any special tools required? Also need to fix the swivel pin on the steering hyd. ram that connects to the hub arm, it is slopy! how is this done? is there a kit? Lots of questions I know but any advice appreciated. Cheers Iain The hub is I believe very similar to the Matador, and I have done one of those. If it is the same the swivel pins have to be withdrawn and the stub axle taken of the ball end. The front bearings are shimmed before the Stub axle is put back onto the ball end..There is no front wheel bearing adjustment after the hub is re-fitted . You are putting on the stub axle, drive shaft, bearings, and hub all as one lump. It is heavy. The trouble I found was stopping the lower swivel pin Taper roller bearings falling out, every time I tried to line up the tractor joints. I seem to remember holding it in place with masking tape, then retrieving same tape, once the Tracta-joint was slid together and the hub was far enough back on to hold the swivel pin taper roller bearings. (it Might be nothing like a Matador, though.) The Steering rod end, should be adjustable. On the rod side of the swivel, there should be a 1/4" bolt that goes through the ball end. If you can see a bolt here, it is locking a screw and pad that can be closed in on the ball of the pin to take up slack. Take the ball joint off the steering rod and you will find the adjuster inside, with a big slot for a wide screwdriver, and into which the locking bolt is fitted. Edited June 18, 2010 by antarmike Just to say I have cross posted with you, and I didn't know how far you had got when I started to reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk3iain Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 (edited) The hub is I believe very similar to the Matador, and I have done one of those. If it is the same the swivel pins have to be withdrawn and the stub axle taken of the ball end. The front bearings are shimmed before the Stub axle is put back onto the ball end..There is no front wheel bearing adjustment after the hub is re-fitted . You are putting on the stub axle, drive shaft, bearings, and hub all as one lump. It is heavy. The trouble I found was stopping the lower swivel pin Taper roller bearings falling out, every time I tried to line up the tractor joints. I seem to remember holding it in place with masking tape, then retrieving same tape, once the Tracta-joint was slid together and the hub was far enough back on to hold the swivel pin taper roller bearings. (it Might be nothing like a Matador, though.) The Steering rod end, should be adjustable. On the rod side of the swivel, there should be a 1/4" bolt that goes through the ball end. If you can see a bolt here, it is locking a screw and pad that can be closed in on the ball of the pin to take up slack. Take the ball joint off the steering rod and you will find the adjuster inside, with a big slot for a wide screwdriver, and into which the locking bolt is fitted. Cheers Mike. Hopefully I will be putting it toghether in the next few days, it looks as you describe and I am sure it will be fun. I will have a go at the steering rod once the hubs are stripped. Hope it improves the steering! Edited June 18, 2010 by Mk3iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Cheers Mike. Hopefully I will be putting it toghether in the next few days, it looks as you describe and I am sure it will be fun.I will have a go at the steering rod once the hubs are stripped. Hope it improves the steering! Lubrications:- 7lbs of grease No2 packed in hub and swivel housing on assembly, and once assembled a further 7 Lbs is pumped in via the large hole and plug, on the top swivel pin, found below the Brake cylinder. Thence keep top up through Tecalemit greaser in the flanges of top swivel pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk3iain Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 Lubrications:- 7lbs of grease No2 packed in hub and swivel housing on assembly, and once assembled a further 7 Lbs is pumped in via the large hole and plug, on the top swivel pin, found below the Brake cylinder. Thence keep top up through Tecalemit greaser in the flanges of top swivel pins. Many thanks Mike, just what I needed to know. Only info I had was to pack the back of the hub before assembly. I had spotted the plug and grease point but no mention in the service schedule! will have another look.:thumbsup::thanx: Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk3iain Posted June 20, 2010 Author Share Posted June 20, 2010 I am having to hold on till I find some lower swivel bearings, so I had a look at the steering ball joint. I stripped it down and inspected the parts. They all looked ok except for the broken spring and when assembled on the bench were a tight fit. So replaced the spring and re-fitted and all seems ok now? I had a feeling they had not been assembled properly before but it was not obvious when removing. Next pic is the o/s lower swivel bearing!..... Followed by Baxter inspecting the hub parts... needs a bigger hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk3iain Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 Still waiting on sodding bearings!!! I was quoted £120 each for the lower swivel bearing!!!:shocked: Rather than stare at the hub in despair I decided to check out the brake actuator and, yes the diaphragms are perished. So now I need to service all the actuators, fairly easy and not expensive for a change. (I hope). Getting to know my truck, bit by bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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