Rover8FFR Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Does anyone know how to establish the authenticity of a military Land Rovers engine from engine numbers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 251 pre-fix is 2A pet. 2286cc (supplied as 7:1 cr) The head could have been changed to 8:1 , the block could equally have been taken off another engine & ancillaries changed around it. There are a few specific military pre-fix (specifically for some FFR) but 251 is not one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 It gets even more Bl**dy difficult Ruxy! Thanks for sharing the knowledge though! Do you know the prefix numbers for an FFR engine in case I come across one for spares / replacement in the future. Thanks :idea: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 This is quite a complex subject. I prefer to examine the hardware existing and then determine what is correct / wrong & then consider the possibilities , not much has survived being molested over 40 years. If you are fitting a 24V 90A genny then to be correct you should be looking for such as a 3mb engine prefix 951 , this has a military timing case cover with a machined platform to take 4 qty. 3/8" set-bolts to secure the genny bracket (pressed steel) located at the dizzy side of the engine (this is when the 7 stud military water pump is used). =============== The 24v 40A genny (yours probably had / has) used different mountings (lighterconstruction) with different mounting bracket & belt tensioning , IIRC there are a few differences with the belt pully idler assembly. Your existing engine could have been fitted with this , if you don't have all the bits - it may pay to watch & wait until a lump comes available with all the correct bits even if the genny is useless & the engine raxed up, you may be lucky & get some screened electrics with it. Once you have these bits - you just need a sound block & head with a Solex 40PA carb. to look correct. To be honest - for a 40A genny correct set up with a 40PA - much more of a project and costly than a 951 prefix that are easy to come by (assuming you want a show vehicle with the bonnet raised). ========== For FFR - I stick to very late Lightweights , I have a Rover 10 (early type) with all the bits to restore it , but that is a lot easier as negative earth 12 volt , still looking for a good (much more rare) Rover 10 (late type) but probably unobtanium. More 6 & 8 turn up than 10's .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 This is quite a complex subject. I prefer to examine the hardware existing and then determine what is correct / wrong & then consider the possibilities , not much has survived being molested over 40 years. If you are fitting a 24V 90A genny then to be correct you should be looking for such as a 3mb engine prefix 951 , this has a military timing case cover with a machined platform to take 4 qty. 3/8" set-bolts to secure the genny bracket (pressed steel) located at the dizzy side of the engine (this is when the 7 stud military water pump is used). =============== The 24v 40A genny (yours probably had / has) used different mountings (lighterconstruction) with different mounting bracket & belt tensioning , IIRC there are a few differences with the belt pully idler assembly.... Ruxy mine is the 40A version and all the mountings, idler pulley are etc, all in-situ and you are right they look a little less robust to me from memory when I had a ser3 109 24v FFR. I even have a Solex carb in serviceable condition. mine originally had a zenith conversion. All the ancills are exactly as described in the user handbook 18358 issued March 1962, so happy with that. I'll get some pics this weekend whilst engine bay is a little better stripped back. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Took some more photos of the engine now I have done more stripping back. The timing cover is now clearly shown with its parts number. Not sure if these numbers refer to EMER references or civilian landrover parts. I noticed some bolt heads lock wired, but as this was the same on my ser 3 FFR assume it's a military detail? Also took pictures of casings with part numbers on bell housing, gearbox, transfer box etc. Also managed to uncover more of the engine paint colour that is a grey with a hint of green. Similar to RAL 9018 Papyrus White or is it BS216 Eau-de-Nil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 You need a S2A rivet counter to date the engine serial No. accurate to compare to the build date of the vehicle. Unfortunately you can never say with paint colour , ABRO re-cons get a full double-header coat of SKY paint , the reflectance shows a different shade to a thin single coat direct on to rough cast iron. Solihull factory paint to my eye has more of a greenish lime content.. Lots of cast markes - are just that , often they are near to a Rover Drg. No. but don't match. For instance mil. S2A front timing cases could be S2A or S3 No. 554541 BUT the other covers used on S2 & S2A mil. engines were Nos. 549532 , 514451 , 531723 , 516029 However - your set up around the basic block - does seem correct for that period of FFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Thanks for that I agree that the engine paint is grey with a tint of green, possibly a lime ish colour. Comforting to see that it appears to be a correct installation for a 63 early FFR. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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