FWDTEXAS Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Results of break out torque on rusted nuts. penetrating oil average load none 516 lbs WD-40 238 lbs PB Blaster 214 lbs Liquid Wrench 127 lbs Kano Kroil 106 lbs ATF Acetone mix 53 lbs ATF Acetone mix ia home brew of 50-50 Automatic transmission fluid and acetone. These were tests done by Machinist's Workshop magazine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Intresting and useful. My home brew is burnt gear oil and disel. 75% Oil 25% disiel. also shifts rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rambo1969 Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 WD 40 sales going down now......:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Yes but WD40 will keep slugs off your flowerpots! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 My home brew is burnt gear oil and disel. 75% Oil 25% disiel. Tony, The viscocity of your conconction would be higher than WD-40 and thus be slower at penetrating. Will stick to WD-40, especially as I have found it in 5 litre cans now. Going back to my apprentice days, we used Plus-Gas and that was excellent penetrant for siezed things, not seen it around for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil munga Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 think these products are OK to a certain extent but there are products out there better than penetrating fluids that can take more than a week to soak in ,, a fiend of mine that has worked around the world in different restoration businesses showed me this type of product that freezes bolts nuts ,, I've used a type of this liquid "freezes to a lower temp" to free seized door hinges ,,,,,,,, now if you use a freezing spray , then use a penetrating spray it should come free with ease ,, I've also used it on seized engines after them not coming free after filling bores with petrol and setting on fire , but if after filling bores with petrol setting on fire the engine still does not move try spray the pistons with freeze spray while the cylinder liners still hot then it should come free ,, check the link below Ambersil 6150003601 New! Rust Flash Rapid-Freeze Rust Release Spray 500ml Prices from: £2.29 each (when you buy 48) Seized fasteners don't stand a chance with Ambersil Rust Flash. An advanced formulation based on the laws of thermo-dynamics which rapidly freezes rust down to -40°C causing micro fissures to form in the rust layer. The micro-fissures ensure the active penetrating ingredients get to work deep into the thread, and allow the fastener to be removed up to 10 times faster than ordinary penetrating formulations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 a fiend of mine that has worked around the world in different restoration businesses showed me this type of product that freezes bolts nuts ,, I've used a type of this liquid "freezes to a lower temp" to free seized door hinges ,,,,,,,, There is also Loctite Freeze & Release. Each situation can be different though, no standard sieze as sometimes it is not corrosion that is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Tony, The viscocity of your conconction would be higher than WD-40 and thus be slower at penetrating. Will stick to WD-40, especially as I have found it in 5 litre cans now. Going back to my apprentice days, we used Plus-Gas and that was excellent penetrant for siezed things, not seen it around for a while. If something is really sized, I soack a rag in th stuff then wrap round object and cover with a plastic bag and leave alone for a while. Nuts etc paint on and use cling film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul connor Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I usually round it off, smash my knuckles onto something removing the skin.. and hope my tears make the offending bolt/nut work loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84KB11 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I use Plus-Gas, seems to shift most things. GR Fasteners stock it in either spray cans or 5lit tins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rambo1969 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 My dad calls wd 40 plus gas, I keep telling him it's wd 40, not plus gas!:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWDTEXAS Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 All good and well but far more expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Oxy-acetylene rules. Not always practical on a vehicle, with air and fluid pipes, cables, rubber bushes in the vicinity. People forget how long the flame is and are oblivious to what else is burning. Always safest to get someone else watching with an extinguisher at the ready. I use heat as last resort as from experience it can create more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 As it's not been mentionned so far, one vote for Duck Oil here, though it has to be freshly sqeezed from local ducks. http://www.debgroup.com/en/products/selector/specialist-cleaning/uk/swarfega/swarfega-duck-oil-retail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Elsdon Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Ive been using GT85 Brit made, used by the MOD, it's alot better than WD40, smells more like furniture polish, and it doesnt bugger up rubber seals and components like WD40 does. I believe it is called PX24 in Mil parlance and used on subs etc. Its also cheaper than WD40. Link: www.gt85.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWDTEXAS Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 Knuckles, time, and temper must be cheap your way Tex. Not to mention welding and cutting. If you have not tried it do not knock it, I have and so have others and we agree with the findings of the compaireson of diferent products. Also some of the products like instant freezing are waqy to expensive when you do a job like restoring a FWD. Quit redeculing sugestions unless you can prove me wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Cor fight fight, take it out side lads! The Ferrets have created a nice muddy hole. :-D If the **** is that stuck boys! I'll take every one of your suggestions and be thankful for 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 young whipper snapper!:argh: At least the Zimmer frame give's you and edge to open the bottle! And verry useful secret weapon for getting to the bar, just hack at all the ankles around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppypiesdad Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Tony, The viscocity of your conconction would be higher than WD-40 and thus be slower at penetrating. Will stick to WD-40, especially as I have found it in 5 litre cans now. Going back to my apprentice days, we used Plus-Gas and that was excellent penetrant for siezed things, not seen it around for a while. http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Penetrating%20Oils&product=30700 There you go Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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