Brooky

According to the section organiser there is about 40 military vehicles booked in, some of course wont be there for the whole three days!!!

Just wondered if anybody was going to the Chipping Steam Rally (Lancashire) over the next bank holiday? i have heard on the grapevine that some post war armour is attending again (as they didi last year)

Best suggestion I can make is to buy the DSA Guide to Driving Large Vehicles and read it cover to cover........all the answers are in there and the DSA practice disc (100 questions now) And practice, practice and practise!!!! If you do get stuck on question go for the safest answer!! (Good luck from a DSA registered LGV Instructor)

Afraid so!!!!!

Nope, it just says "Drivers may be exempt from the need to hold category C or C+E entitlement for certain vehicles but note the normal age restrictions still apply" There is also a note that if the licence holder is only permitted to drive vehicles with automatic transmission then they may only drive the vehicles listed if they are fitted with automatic transmission

Not in any particular order A Foden or Commer two stroke diesel at full chat The Merlin (preferably 4 in a Lancaster) An LMS pacific loco working hard over Shap A B series RR engine

According to the latest edition of the FTA Yearbook of Road Transport Law, a goods vehicle manufactured before 1st Jan 1960 (now called a vintage goods vehicle) when used unladen and not drawing a laden trailer can be driven without C or C+E, the only restriction is that the normal age limits apply, he must therefore be aged 21 or over. Hope this helps

I agree with you!!! We (Poms!) shipped back no end of mainly steam stuff in the 70's and 80's. I think this destroyed any provenance they might had had. Am I right in thinking though that the Australian govenment stopped a lot of this.

I agree, I think I made that point in an earlier post but said something along the lines of a quicker change is possible due to road speed not being lost whilst waiting for engine revs to drop, same thing really.

Ageed with the comment about complicating matters. As with all these things they are only any good if correct training is given. I find this on state of the art vehicles I train drivers on daily. The vehicles can be driven by anybody, but if the drivers are shown how to use all the functions and understand what they are there for then the vehicle will be driven better. A case in point will be driving an automated gearbox in manual when road conditions allow it, or the correct use of the gas pedal to enable a quick get away on roundabouts etc.

Think we are talking at cross purposes (I blame senility in my case) We are both right about the clutch stop, what I think we may be confused about is its use. You are right that if you stamped on the clutch you would be in effect trying to stop the vehicle. Hence the need to realise that correct use is very important and when stopping only depress the clutch half way down. The main use however is as I said to enable easy (easier!) gearchanging, and peoplke should be aware of its correct use.

I know that I am getting a bit old and forgetful but I am 99% convinced that on a Scammell the clutch brake is on the the input shaft of the gearbox after the clutch, at the back of the bell housing. Remember that in a Scammell (whatever model) the gearbox is remotely mounted from the bell housing. The clutch stop is there to slow the flywheel and drop the engine revs quickly to enable faster up changes so that you do not lose road speed whilst changing gear. I know that if you look through any instruction book for a vehicle fitted with a stop the gear changing instruction will be when changing up depress the clutch pedal half way down, engage neutral,clutch up, clutch to the floor (to engage the stop) into the next higheer gear and foot of clutch. There will also be a warning to only depress the pedal half way down when changing down. The reason is that when changing down you need the engine revs to rise to match the road speed in the lower gear, engaging the stop will slow the engine down and defeat the change.

I think you will find that the clutch brake works on the flywheel side of the clutch (if you look at the Scammell gearbox it is remote from the bell housing) and is used for losing engine revs to enable quick up changes. For those of us who have been lucky enough to drive a vehicle with a twin splitter (the finest gearbox ever fitted to a wagon!!) will know that they were fitted with a clutch stop and was only ever used for up changes if you hit the stop when changing down you ended up with a box full of neutrals!! (a real twin splitter driver would of course not be using the clutch anyway to change gear)

There used to be one in a yard in Swavesey in Cambridgeshire. It was complete and a runner

The clutch stop (right at the bottom of the pedal) should only be used when changing up to slow the revs of the engine quicker to make a faster change. Never never never use it on a down change as after all you want the engine revs to rise to match the lower gear. A tip I was told and have used with the gate change gearbox is when changing up pulll the gearstick towards you and changing down push it away, that way it will avoid having to look at the gate. It used to be said that the true mark of a Scammell driver was if he could drive it without the gate!! Joking aside, dont use too many revs in each gear (remember it is flat out at just over 25 or thereabouts) and that you will be in 6th by the time you are doing about 15mph. Again good advice about planning to keep moving, if you stop you have to get through the gears to find third to start all over again. Get out there and practise and then practise some more eventually you wont need the clutch (only to stop and start)

Yes definetely Morris, and I think quad given the 20" wheels. The chassis was all there (typical Morris sub frame for the engine) chassis pretty well rusted but still Morris!!!!

There was one of the Southport DUKWs for sale a couple of years ago. The advert mentioned you might have to be good at welding!!!

Correct!!!! There were also shrimpers on Bedford and commer 3 ton chassis

Not quite at Blackpool but across the bay at Southport this photo was taken a couple of years ago. The contraption is used for fishing. Any ideas what is underneath the body?????

Large heavy and slow just about does it for driving a Hippo!!!!! Speed is about 30-35 mph but remember that the speed limit for a vehicle of that size in its day was only 20mph anyway. The gearbox (once you have got use to it)is a delight and is very easy to make clutchless changes on. They are powered by a 7.4litre diesel engine that runs like a sewing machine. As for the driving position, well the driver was the last thing they thought about!!!! The seat is a wooden box with a cushion on it, the back rest is a piece of metal with a cushion on it. The steering (except at low speed) is not bad, but that may be something to do with the size of the steering wheel!!!. The handbrake is a ratchet park brake ( as fitted to most heavy vehicles of the age) and if it doesnt nip your fingers when applying it or releasing it then you will catch your trouser leg on it when you get out of the cab. No health and safety in those days!!! All I can say is that a drive of as Hippo should be on everybodies to do list!!!

Could try Bygone Bedford or John Morter (01935 602581)for rings, cant lay my hands on Bygone Bedfords number at the moment. If they havent got any i am sure they will point you in right direction

There was a full size Fowler a few years ago that was turned out for a couple of seasons in WD colours, it was later painted into Pickfords livery. Will see if I can find a photo

The Iceberg project was led by Perkins engines.

AS Spike Milligan once said "everybodies got to be somewhere"