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Rick, I have found that for people at our level the mags are pretty straight forward especially if you have an EMER that covers them. The EMER for the Antar and the Meteorite gives full details but I don't know what is covered in the 4B EMER. Apart from the rotor arm are there many parts which are handed? Even the testing of them is not particularly difficult. It is basically to ensure that regular sparking occurs at a certain number of revs and continues at higher revs. The HT has to be able to jump a prescribed gap. I would have thought that if you had an old inlet mag and a rebuilt Exhaust mag you could make a good inlet one. The Antar EMER describes overhauling the plug lead harness. It is pretty straight forward apart from the need to pull the new HT cable through the harness. You would need to get some small dia HT cable. John

Dear All, The Rolls Royce part number I have used in the past is ST 81712 but unfortunately whilst it is recognised by Perkins it is no longer supplied and there is no alternative. Has anyone worked out what to ask for from a transmission specialist, ie cross section and length? Note that the manual states that it is very important that the belts come from the same batch of manufacture. John

Dear All, The REME Museum's Scammell Amazon tank transporter was a "Crown Vehicle" when operated by FVRDE / MOD PE. I think that there was a certificate involved so that there could be no misunderstanding. I don't know what the score was with an MOT. John

Dear All, I still put my money on a jack handle! My recollection is that the AEC 10 tonner had a hydraulic jack with a long flat jack handle and I can remember using it to change a wheel at the side of the road in BAOR. The Scammell Explorer and Leyland Martian recovery would have the bigger 20 ton Lake and Elliot. The 20 ton jack handle is thicker and I don't think that it would fit in the rectangular hole in the bottom bracket. The four tonners had a screw jack and that did have a two or three piece handle which would all fit in the locker under the load bed. I think that the bins in the back of the cab would not be long enough to take the jack handle but I may be wrong. If memory serves me right the 10 tonners with the Marshall type drop side body had a cage storage box under the load bed at the front and the jack handle could live there so there would be no need to keep it in the cab. I just cannot remember where we used to keep the jack handle! The tankers or HAA tractor might not have had the cage so would need the stowage fitting in the cab. John

Dear All, Jack handle? John

Dear All, Does anyone know of a supplier of the above material. I have used RS Components 553 150 which is two sheets but it is discontinued. You now have to buy a pack of 10 sheets 500 X 200. I want to make two gauge dials at 70 mm dia. My stock has gone off and wont work now. Very reluctant to buy £40 of stock which will surely go off before I can use it. John

Clive, My understanding was that there were "pink EMERs" and "numbered pink EMERs" and they were indeed classified. Some are surprised about what is not classified above RESTRICTED. However, if it is more that RESTRICTED it would be an accountable document and great care would have to be taken not to lose it or allow unauthorised access. For that reason, you will never see a pink EMER because as a higher classified document it would be destroyed when no longer needed or had been replaced. John

Chris, I have got a lathe and a milling machine with DRO so I can make it precisely. I can easily make the special tool if you either have a good drawing / sketch or a nut for me to see. I am in Horndean near Petersfield. John

Stephane , I used these Bedford TMs both in 240 Sqn at Barnet and with BDA (an aid agency) in Bosnia in the winter of 93/94. Sean N's analysis is basically correct. However, if it was running and then you stopped it normally with the stop control there should be no need to mess around with priming strokes etc. First, don't use ether or easy start AND the heater system described below because you might get a bang. I have never used ether on a TM even in a Bosnian winter. Fully charge up the batteries. First pull and release the excess fuel lever / handle which is just behind the handbrake lever. It is designed so that the excess fuel cannot be operated when the handbrake is "off". With the ignition switched "ON", press the cold start heater switch and keep it pressed for about 30 seconds (I don't know anything about a woosh). Whilst keeping heater switched pressed, turn starter. Engine should start straight away with out prolonged cranking. It may die on you after a few seconds. If so, repeat (inc the excess fuel handle) but keep the accelerator glued to the floor even after it starts. Absolutely horrible because you are revving the nuts off a cold engine. I found from experience that in below freezing conditions, there is no alternative. I love an engine that slowly picks up from a cold start as there is no need to rev it when cold and with low oil pressure. I cannot remember if it has an oil pressure gauge or not. Watch the oil pressure warning light like a hawk. If it fails to go out in very cold conditions you may have sheared the oil pump drive! If you are starting in extremely cold conditions you might want to consider a low viscosity, fully synthetic oil. Note that the excess fuel is automatically reverts to normal as soon as the governor in the fuel injection pump intervenes to control engine revs. Therefore, if it starts and then stops you will have to pull handle again to reset the excess fuel. If this does not work, as others have suggested, you need to check operation of the thermostart (s). They are proprietory devices so there should be something on the internet about them. I expect that they will be fed via a solenoid switch. If you do remove them then you will have to ensure that the reservoir above them is primed. Let us know how you get on because there is much more advice that we can give. John

Dear All, I have fitted electronic fuel injection (EFI) to the Meteor M120 in the Conqueror ARV. I think that the B60 is a lovely engine and would not want to knock the original set up. However the advantages and facilities of EFI are: Cranking enrichment After start enrichment Cold temp enrichment. No stale fuel in carb float chamber. On the Conqueror a huge improvement in fuel economy. The system I used was a Megasquirt with injectors normally to be found in a V8 Range Rover but two per cylinder. The problem with the Conqueror has been to get mapping correct because it has not been possible to hold the engine at a certain power output. However, the system has a feedback loop and Lambda sensor and in most circumstances this will correct the mixture. This means that when pulling the mixture is correct and therefore minimises fuel consumption. I don't know if EFI could extract more power out of a B60 and I am not even sure that is desirable. I think the driver for EFI is good and reliable starting combined with good fuel economy. John

I would have thought that it was UIN not VIN. UIN means Unit Identity Number and the numbers quoted are consistent with being a UIN. John

Dear All, I bought a gun tractor from Ruddington in 1983 for about £400 and it had no engine and none of the others did either! John

Being serious for a moment, for which engine are they or what is COSA section? John

Dear All, The patient is doing quite well. The ballast box has been ground loaded which makes the vehicle look much better. Windscreens are in but with a little fettling to do. Have made new matching silencers. Currently on the electrics. Purists will not like the fact that I have designed the system to be reliable and has the benefit of more than about four fuses. So I have installed about 5 or 6 relays and eight circuit breakers. I have found that with both the Antar and the Contractor the lamp load of a big trailer is horrendous especially with double flashing beacon lights at the rear. Thus a heavy duty supply to the trailer lighting circuit is essential. Originally the wiring was all black with numbered wires. I now have a few different colours in use but each wire is ID'd with its function eg "HEAD MAIN" or "ALT W/L". The alternator on the Rolls Royce diesel has meant that the generator and regulator are all superfluous and were removed many years ago. The design is predicated on the system being able to take a dead short to ground anywhere (except the starter cables and a short cable to the first 100 amp fuse) without damage. However, all the electrical switches and controls are as original and when you get in the cab only an expert on Mk II Antars would realise that there are some 'improvements' to the system. Other tasks that I am looking forward to are: the doors (not a big problem apart from sliding glass), reassemble the fifth wheel, quarter lights, and shot blast and paint wheels. The front brakes and swivels need a strip down, clean and service. King pin thrust bearings need replacing as there is a rut in them which makes steering on motorway tiring. I want to do one final batch of plating. I use Zinc Plate and colour passivate with all fasteners being heavily oiled before assembly. This make such a difference when something has to be dismantled again. After that there will be the snagging process and inspection / checking. I want to get this vehicle done by April in order to get back onto the Conqueror ARV in the Summer. John

Dear All, I had a problem with the side lights on the Antar. Nearly every time that I took it out it blew a side lamp bulb. This was because there is no rubber mounting in the lamp. I have changed to LEDs for reliability. On the legal side I think that you have to ask "what would happen in the courts?". On the Construction and Use Regulations? I don't think that you could possibly be prohibited from moving the vehicle but in any case you could always replace the bulb. Furthermore, the vehicle inspectors do not normally have the power to dismantle or require you to dismantle the lamp assembly so how could they conclude that the LED was not E approved? I am sure that they have got much more important things to do that worry about very reliable LED lamps. On the liability side in the event of an accident, imagine this, "Your Honour, the reason why I did not see the outline of the vehicle was because it was fitted with non E approved LEDs. If had been fitted with the usual unreliable incandescent bulbs or E approved LED bulbs I would have seen the vehicle and taken avoiding action" or "Your Honour, I was dazzled by the LED." I don't think that will work! One further advantage of LEDs arises in the event of a breakdown. The LEDs would stay lit for hours, even all night, whereas an incandescent bulb will flatten the battery quite quickly. John

Steve, Go to a Caterpillar dealer and ask them to get onto Caterpillar at Shrewsbury. You need to get a Rolls Royce part number, they are often arrange like "OE 25683". An ISPL for an RAF 30 ton Constructor might give you a RR number. If you only have a NSN there are people or sites that can convert them to manufacturers part numbers. What the Caterpillar dealer wont be able to do is help you if you ask for "a set of big end shells for a C6 NFL". The difficulty with going to Caterpillar for new stock is that the parts might be unaffordable. I am finding that to be the case with Cummins and the 14 litre engine in the Contractor. Very keen to know how you get on. John

Dear All, And a petrol Antar will give 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 MPG. With a Rolls Royce Eagle diesel you can get 3 or 4 MPG at 50 tons gross train weight. John

Dear All, The Chris Miller Antar is quite safe and talked up in bed (ie under cover) with Fred Lawton in Derbyshire. I keep hearing tales about Antars with two engines. I have never ever seen or read anything authoritive about this. The V8 meteorite did have two rocker covers, two rads, two carbs, two fuel pumps and two mags.... but not two engines! John

Dear All, I have at last got the cab back on the truck. I have not got a slewing crane at the farm so I had to find a new way of fitting cab to chassis. Pics are below. John

Sean, I would agree with that. Closing the throttle creates large inlet manifold depression which sucks in the oil. Very little fuel is being burnt, not much heat. I suspect that you are right and the puff actually occurs when you open the throttle a little. I am working up a plan of action for the Conqueror. There are a few issues, namely: The track is too slack because the adjusters are seized solid. (and every tankie who sees it running around will know that the track is too slack but not the reason why) At least one final drive weeps oil. The winch's J60 with auto gear-box only just pulls the full load but the winch will run back when the throttle is released. It needs a 3 :1 step down gear-box with a sprag brake and without it, it will not pass a winch test. The pump for the spades hydraulic system needs to be in the winch compartment where it is more accessible. Then hydraulic barrel needs to be run down to the spade valve block in the transmission compartment. Unbelievably the modern bio-petrol is attacking the soft soldered joints in the fuel system. The system will have to be rebuilt using aluminium. It is very difficult to get the fuel mapping right with a variable load. The plug oiling problem has not helped. I would like to run the engine against a dynamometer of some sort. This all suggests that the engine needs to come out to do the job properly with good engineering hygene. I will finish writing up the plan and put it to the Director of the REME Museum for approval. John

Sean and All, I get the big puff of smoke when the throttle is released. When running at fast idle or pulling there is nothing. What I also forgot to mention was the engine oil got contaminated with petrol from the old mechanical fuel injection pump. That could well have hastened the demise of the seals. John

Sorry, accidently pressed SEND. Dear All, The REME Museum's Conqueror ARV has the Meteor M120 petrol engine. Unfortunately it is very easy to wet the plugs with oil. Fortunately it is easy to detect which ones are affected because when they are dry the resistance at the plug lead is infinite but when wet merely 'high'. The Megga easily detects duff ones. I am fairly confident that the oil is getting past the valves because: The compression are satisfactory and most importantly, even. There is no exhaust smoke when engine is pulling, it is clear. When the engine is 'revved' and throttle released there is always a big puff of blue smoke. The problem is worst if the engine is allowed to idle too long when cold or revved up and down (as we all love to do!) The engine was rebuilt at (I think) Aldershot Command Workshops in the eighties. It seems unlikely that they would have assembled it with seriously worn valve guides or valve stems. One would guess that the valves were the same as a Mk IVB so they should have been able to acquire new ones if nec. In the valve gear cross section drawings I can see that there is a 'shield' but I have not yet seen one! Is it made of steel or is it rubber or some other material which can go hard? Does anyone have any other ideas? John

Dear All, The REME Museum's Conqueror ARV has the Meteor M120 petrol engine. Unfortunately it is very easy to wet the plugs with oil. Fortunately it is easy to detect which ones are affected because when they are dry the resistance at the plug lead is infinite but when wet merely 'high'. The Megga easily detects duff ones. I am fairly confident that the oil is getting past the valves because: The compression are satisfactory and most importantly, even. The engine was rebuilt at (I think) Aldershot Command Workshops in the eighties. It seems unlikely that they would have assembled it with seriously worn valve guides or valve stems. One would guess that the valves were the same as a Mk IVB so they should have been able to acquire new ones if nec. In the valve gear cross section drawings I can see that there is a 'shield' but I have not yet seen one! Is it made of steel or is it rubber or some other material which can go hard?

Dear All, Can Malcolm, Clive or anyone else tell me what adaptor I need to enable my scope to read KVs? This is something that I have wanted to be able to do for some time. John

I don't think the frames are a problem. Unfortunately the kids broke the glass but that might be a blessing in disguise. I have managed to dismantle the quarter light window frames. I hope that the windscreen frames are as easy. I think that I can get new rubbers from Woolies in Market Deeping. What does worry me is that some of the quarter light frames have rotted to nothing. I might be able to machine replacement sections by milling solid bar. I am still on filling the cab roof to get it nice. John