LarryH57

Interesting comments; I appreciate that D-Day 70th in Normandy and similar events can bring the family out in support but this often happens when 'dad' says he's going in his MV and the rest of the family come along for the ride, which may give weight to the idea that loads of youngsters are involved. For every club member that dies sadly there are not plenty more to take their place. Some MVT Areas are down to seven members and others consist of owners who are getting to the stage where they rarely get their MVs out on the road. I expect its similar in IMPS. Now without club members, you won't have people to run these clubs, and our voice will be lost with the powers that be!

I was thinking the other evening that if MV owners and members of the MVT and IMPS with grey hair were excluded, how many people would be left to carry on these clubs? It seems the average age is well over 50. Something needs to be done to encourage younger members.

I might just stick with the Clive Elliot method, and paint it again like a squaddie. Do people wash their MVs before painting?:-D

Amazing response - many thanks to you all, and yes I only have the Lwt for the moment. The idea originally was to get rid of the areas of paint were the 7 or more layers has chipped leaving a crater.

I bought an Angle Grinder and Grit Flap Discs to remove paint on my MV in order to take off a few coats of paint before repainting, as I prefer to do this rather than use paint stripper. As I'll be wearing coveralls, gloves, eye protection and a mask, I'm wondering if it is in order to remove the guard on the Grinder, so that all of the disc can be in contact with the paint rather than just half. I appreciate that a guard is needed for more serious work such as cutting with a grindstone, but would it matter to remove the guard with a Grit Flap Disc?

Out of interest what's involved with converting a vehicle from 6 volt to 12 volt and why bother? Presumably 12v gives better starting and lights. Is the job complicated or is there an easy way?

Just a thought - I had similar symptoms with my Lwt LR which was fitted with a new carb. Apart from a small piece of swarf in the needle valve, which was easy to spot, I later found that the O ring (of inferior manufacture) between the upper and lower halves of the carb expanded when in contact with fuel, which caused internal flooding. This was not apparent from a visual inspection, and the last thing I expected on a new carb. Just to complicate my problem I also had a float that broke and had a new one fitted that despite being the 'correct part for a Zenith' was in fact too big and it rubbed against the inside of the carb. So check the carb refurb parts and their fit.

One was on Milweb not so long ago for £45,000 which I thought was a bit much. So how much for this one?

For me the very original 115 KGC Ambulance is the most interesting, especially as the owner said to me that he had evidence it was actually used in Italy during WW2.

Did you win in the end?

Did this vehicle get saved or shipped for scrap?

38 Sqn was based variously in North Africa, Malta, Italy and Palestine from 1940 when it equipped with Wellingtons, and continued with these up to 1945. Those Wellingtons in the attached photo above, appear to be Mk XIII or Mk XIVs.

Dear Sharky, Thanks for the link to your photos on Facebook. I realise now that you own a Fordson N Tractor; I assumed it was a Fordson WOT, for which Tony is a bit of an expert! Anyway your Fordson Tractor appears to be in Fordson gloss dark green, similar to the one in the attached photo. As I'm interested in RAF Vehicle colours in WW2, I'm wondering if the RAF had some of these vehicles straight off the production line that could so easily have been used elsewhere such as a farm, hence the civi style colours? Its not the first I've seen like this but most of the photos of RAF vehicles show them in camo of two colours. Was your used by the RAF in the UK and have you found what colours it was painted at the factory? Also regarding the Fordson name on the rad, was yellow of any significance as nowadays I only see it painted red on preserved vehicles. Was this done at the factory or it the colour likely to be 'blinged up' by the driver? BTW - I guess this photo dates from c.1941 judging by the bombs and may be a bomb load for a Stirling.

Apart from Richard, does anyone else on here remember the 1960s? Perhaps you are too young!

Many thanks Pete, At last some practical advice on this subject

Out of interest how good or otherwise is the supply of spares for Morris Commercials such as the CS8, PU and C8?

Regarding this show I'd be interested to know what you thought of it if you went in an MV or as paying public? The Museum is so I'm told looking to expand a little in to living history, though I can't see where they can place many trenches if that's what they want. However some LH Groups bring in a selection of kit and weapons and dressed in their period uniforms are often a great hit with the public. As with any show great or small it needs to evolve to stay on the calendar!

Out of interest how is 'Whoa' in Whoa Mohammed pronounced - is it 'Who argh' or 'Woe-a'? The fist option sounds like 'oh argh Mrs', so I guess its the second option if they were saying 'woe' like a cowboy stopping his horse (or donkey).

You're lucky living up north; you get real weather! I've owned my Lwt for more than 10 years and living in NW London I've only had a couple of occasions when I could drive it in proper snow; one was to take the kids to school before I went to work and the other by some miracle was when it snowed at the weekend and remained as snow in South Bucks & Herts which allowed me to test it out, and see all the normal cars abandoned in drifts or in ditches.

Paul & Richard, many thanks for your replies. Yes, it was the case that the pin was nearly coming out, and one of the washers (number 16 on the diagram) had drop down inside the rocker arm link (number 11 on the diagram), so the rocker arm was probably misaligned. But when we put it together properly we thought that would be the end of our troubles!!! So the next thing we will do is take the top off and watch to see if the diaphragm moves when the engine is turned and after that check the alignment the rocker arm and the push rod. I will also turn the engine over on the starting handle to see the action of the engine push rod if I can through the hole. I'll let you know how I get on and if web diagnostics is worth it! (I have so far had great help from this and other forums, so keep posting)

Personally, I don't believe many owners drive their MVs in winter and must therefore lay them up till the daffodils are out. If WW2 vehicles are driven in winter why have I never ever seen one on the road before March in 40 years. The only MVs up to the job and out and about in winter are Land Rovers!

Not exactly the kind of gun you could take to a show even if you had the correct vehicle, unless you have a load of friends to act as the crew. How many men were needed to operate this in WW2?

Richard, You'll have to forgive me I'm not mechanically trained so sometimes I don't explain myself or pick up on what others are posting. Anyway this explains things a bit better but as for a cure, if the push rod is broken then the engine needs to come apart, more than just taking a rocker cover off I presume. BTW if you have also looked at the parts list can you say what the part number is or rather its number in the list from 1 to 178 on the pages 5 to 12 covering the engine parts? Lastly what do you think about my suggestion for an electric pump?

Who remembers the books War Planes of the Second World War by William Green starting with Fighters Vol 1 through to Bombers and Reconnaissance Aircraft Vol 10, dating from 1960 to 1968? It was these books that got me interested in WW2 aviation. I have collected the set and even found a few at War & Peace. But can anyone say if Vol 10 was the last in the series and if so why there weren't any more? I have never seen Vol 11 onwards listed.

Paul, As soon as the hand pumping stops so does the engine after it's used up the fuel. Going back to the problem as it occurred, the Tilly drove along quite nicely then suddenly stopped, and turning over of the engine on the starter never got it going. The AA was called and they thought it was fuel pump too and possibly a split diaphragm. The fuel pump was then removed back at base as related above and the old diaphragm changed for a new one, even though I thought it was OK. So if the diaphragm didn't fail on the road, it must surely be related to the cam, as we can run the engine with hand priming but it won't run on its own. This surely discounts any leaks and blockages? By the way has anyone rigged up an electric pump on a Tilly as I'm told a Morris minor one may do and be easily available.