LarryH57

Thanks Simon, I'll order a copy from somewhere but if you have one yourself just answer this simple question - why were RAF Type Numbers introduced?

volvoc303 I have sent you a PM

Has anyone got a list of RAF Vehicle Type Numbers, that seem to be quite prevalent on RAF vehicles used from around 1944 to early post-war, especially so for 2nd TAF vehicles. These numbers were unique to a particular vehicle type and whatever RAF unit had them the Type number was always the same - if they bothered to display it! BTW - there is some circumstantial evidence that for 2nd TAF RAF Jeeps that some carried Type 1900 on the bonnet / hood (on the left hand drivers side and the RAF vehicle serial on the other side of the bonnet. The photo of the Padre may be RCAF and connected with 401 Sqn RCAF but I'm trying to confirm if the white circle and 'I' marking seen on a few Jeeps is a 'Roman 1' and reference to their previous identity as 1 Sqn RCAF. Any photos of 2nd TAF Jeeps greatly appreciated, whatever the nationality of the unit.

volvoc303, I'd love to have you join us; send me a PM with your email phone number and vehicles registration(s) Larry

Dear Members, I looking for owners with ex-RAF vehicles, who may wish to attend RAF Northolt's 100th Anniversary Open Day & Air Show on Saturday 13th June 2015. Please send me a PM if you are interested. Kind Regards Larry

Thanks Don, I must have missed the comment that an AC pump is 1.5 psi. I suspect the one on the Tilly was nothing like as good, so when the SU was fitted it ran well. Shame about the leak but good to know the new pump did not rupture anything!

On the Normandy Tour 1979, the gardener at the MVCG camp site we stayed at drove a Kubelwagen as his daily drive. It was only 35 years old

Ok folks the Huco Suction Pump 133010 from Southern Carburettors was fitted this morning and works very well. It seems that Southern Carburettors were the only people to point out that this pump works with negative or positive earth, so in the case of the Tilly the red wire was attached to earth and the black to -ve on the coil. All the other searches I did for this item suggest negative earth use only. Anyway that's the good news - there is slight leak from the carb around the inlet pipe! I know what your thinking the fuel pressure must be so high, it forced its way out but at 1.4psi its not that much and similar to the AC engine driven pump! Does anyone know what the rating is for the original AC pump? Hopefully a new fibre washer (part 56 on the exploded diagram in the parts list) will stop the drip.

Just thought that if the pump is connected up and the output hose is put into a Jerrycan I can see with the ignition on if it pumps fuel in the right direction.

Many thanks all When in our haste to fit a pump last time (which we discovered was a negative earth pump) it did nothing when it was connected other than get hot before we quickly disconnected it. Now this time round I'm proposing that as it is a positive earth vehicle and a pump to suit that we attach the brown lead to the chassis earthing point and have the black one attached to the negative terminal on the coil. Fingers crossed!

An electric pump has been sourced from Southern Carburettors and is I think a Huco Suction Pump 133010 (I don't have it yet) but its said to be for either positive and negative earth on SC's website. So how would it be connected up if the vehicle is positive earth? Surely if it can be connected either way then it could potentially run either way i.e. in reverse? Any thoughts on this anyone?

With the AC pump off and the engine turned over, the push rod hardly moves. I put my finger over the end and there was so little movement it was understandable it was not going to move the cam on the pump. With the pump in place it was possible to hand pump the carb but as soon as I stopped the engine dies. So what else can I do?

Guys, firstly thanks for all your replies. Sadly the cam on the camshaft in the engine of the Tilly must be worn down as it no longer pushes on the push rod sufficiently to pump the AC fuel pump, which itself is in good order. We may decide to go back to the AC if the engine needs stripping. But for now we want to get the old girl mobile hence the need for an electric pump. BTW - Regarding the problem that electric pumps do not stop pumping in the event that the engine stops, we propose to have one connection attached to the coil, so in the event of a stall or crash, the pump will stop.

We are fitting an electric fuel pump to a Hillman Tilly, in place of an AC engine driven pump, and I'd like to know what psi approx. would do. I imagine its got to be fairly low pressure for the type of engine. Has anyone done this to a Tilly or similar type of vehicle? Once I know what psi, I can then order one from firms like Southern Carburettors, who have a few positive earth types. BTW I have also seen pumps rate in litres or gallons per hour. Which is a better way of assessing an electric fuel pump?

I'm working with a friend on a 1942 Hillman Tilly, that should by all accounts be NEGATIVE earth but is actually Positive! As there is not much in the way of electrics in a Hillman Tilly (just lights and ignition and possibly a fuel pump) some have suggested that its an easy job to do. So what's involved in changing it from Positive Earth to Negative Earth?

Ok more help needed; according to a brief description on the Hillman Tilly Register these vehicles should be 12 volt negative earth, yet the one we are working on is Positive Earth. Were any made like this or is it a bodge being positive earth? The AC fuel pump doesn't work because the cam on the engine is worn, so we want to fit an electric pump for now - which needs to be positive earth as the positive terminal on the battery is connected to the bulkhead. By the way does any one know the pressure of the standard AC pump as we would like to fit one from SU that's 1.4 psi. Is that good enough?

Any help on the length of the push rod gratefully received.

Thanks this helps with the mix to get the right paint colours - but which colour to choose?

For the PSC 1/72 scale Universal Carrier and Loyd Carrier models I'm making as used on D-Day what colours would be used in the British Army for the base colour? Humbrol or Revell paint numbers or the mix would be of use. I seems that most books cover 'armour' such as Shermans or Churchills or 'soft skin' trucks but not Carriers!

Interesting thread from a while back. Ted did you ever get to answer the last post before this?

S of A it looks like - School of Artillery?

What type of Lucas distributor is it? Do you know what other vehicles used this distributor? There may be other MV owners out there who have a spare or have a source for you that may not know your distributor is the same for their MV.

Can anyone say whether the push rod needs to be made from hardened steel, if we decide to make one up? I suppose it would not harm the engine if we made several and tested them for size and ability to push on the fuel pump cam and then had the best one hardened? BTW - for anyone with a Hillman what length is the push rod, even approximately, as without an exploded diagram its hard to know if the push rod we have of about 7 inches long is the full length or (fingers crossed) not just half of one, with the other bit still in the engine! The push rod just pulled out by hand once the fuel pump was removed. The end that was in the engine didn't look as if it had broken off another bit of metal.

The aircraft tug is a US built Clarktor 6 Heavy Aircraft tug

I agree with Fulltilt - my brake light switch, once replaced and adjusted correctly, has lasted for years. Perhaps there was an intermittent fault with the old switch behind the servo and whenever you adjusted it you temporarily fixed the fault till you went over a pot hole and gave it a jolt.