Lauren Child

Welcome along, so do you have a particular soft spot for the Oshkosh trucks?

I knew Rob would know where to look

Welcome along Half shaft part number is 61-4235. The diagrams are almost identical for the WOT2 and 7V rear axle/diff though, so if you come by a 7V one it might be worth a look to see if it's similar. Best bet is probably to join and get in touch with the early ford v8 club --> http://www.earlyfordv8.co.uk/

Strangely I've ended up with two copies of this manual - one June 1942 like yours, and one dated August 1942. The August one drops all of the stowage diagrams from the middle of the book. It also drops the "Issued by Vauxhall Motors". There are two corrections on the inside front cover. Turn off the engine before operating the CO2 fire extinguisher, and don't change the engine oil monthly if you run for less than 500 miles. Now I just need the tank to go with them

It's OK we're stop-PING...

I echo that sentiment.

Careful, that's the "Kill all Humans" switch on Robbie the Robot.

From the big book of WOT2 maintenance The Rear Axle. Axle Shaft. To Remove 1. Remove the eight nuts holding the axle shaft to the wheel hub and remove the lockwashers. 2. Remove the eight taper collets remaining on the hub studs. 3. Tighten up the two extractor bolts on the axle shaft flange so that the axle shaft is drawn away from the hub to facilitate removal 4. Draw the axle shaft out of the axle housing and rear wheel hub. To Replace 1. Clean off all traces of the old gasket from the axle shaft flange and mating face of the hub, and place a new gasket on the studs in the hub. 2. Slacken off the two extractor bolts so that the ends of the bolts do not stand proud of the machined surface of the axle shaft flange and refit the axle shaft, turning it to facilitate the engagement of the splines on the end of the shaft with the differential gears. 3. Check that the taper collets and the seating for the collets in the axle flange are clean and refit the collets. 4. Replace the spring lock washers and nuts on the studs and tighten up in a criss-cross manner to ensure even seating. 5. Tighten up the two extractor bolts to prevent them being lost in service. While it won't help with the stuck end, I Hope that helps in general

I think that says Budd, who made wheels during ww2 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Budd_Company

That is indeed a V8 manifold. The C indicates Canadian manufacture. I don't think it's a CMP truck with that carb and filler tube.

This may be worth moving to it's own thread as we're a bit off topic, however the toolboxes do look Canadian to go with the rounded edge bulb/spark plug boxes.

Nice find! If the toolboxes are the same vintage you may have found some CMP ones (the round cornered bulb boxes are Canadian manufactured ones as I understand it). You can see them in this photo - http://bcoy1cpb.pacdat.net/CMP_tools_layout.jpg from http://bcoy1cpb.pacdat.net/cmp_canadian_military_pattern.htm

What is the model of carb?

If you like that, the T35 is worth a look. It had 5 turrets. http://www.wwiivehicles.com/ussr/tanks-heavy/t-35.asp

I'd love to if the truck is willing

The Collins English Dictionary defines laden as I'd say it came down to what was reasonably considered weighed down or burdened. Popping your coat in the back on an overcast day probably isn't. If you put a tent or bag in the back does it load or burden the vehicle? That depends on how heavy it is I guess. Disclaimer: I'm not an expert, just trying to look at this and form a reasonable opinion. Get some professional advice if you think you need to.

Interesting to see a Moisin Nagant sniper rifle - that would be good for a female re-enactor.

I can't say for sure as I'm colour-blind, but to my eyes it could be more of a navy colour than an RAF one.

I am consistently amazed at the detail you put onto this.

1) Remember there is a difference between imperial ton, US ton, and tonne. Find a conversion calculator. 2) As above, it's the gross vehicle weight (vehicle plus the maximum permissible load). 2.5 ton is probably the weight that the vehicle can carry, not including the weight of the vehicle. 3) If it's pre-1960 then you can drive some vehicles outside of your weight class as long as they are unladen (not carrying anything). That's as I understand it anyway. If in doubt get some professional advice or check the uk.gov website for the DVLA leaflets etc.

Does anyone know if you can make the M274 Mule road legal in the UK? I'd love one of these for popping to the shops etc. I don't think I've ever seen one fitted with indicators and registration plate though, so do they not meet the necessary regulations?

To be on the H license it has to be steered by it's tracks (size is irrelevant for the H as far as I'm aware). I think a carrier is steered by it's tracks (albeit by bending the track rather than braking it). The one I've never understood is the Hagglunds BV. I'd have said that's steered by it's tracks as well, but I've heard several folks say that it's on a C license instead.

There's no need to insult them. I'm sure Aussie Land Rovers are perfectly fashionable in their own land.

Welcome along - I have a WOT2 as well

Damn that valet. I told him to park mine at the top.