redneck

She could be made useful http://www.mbtdivers.com/OriskanyHome.htm

N2, My tilt bed was 3934kg unladen, Gross vehicle weight 5300kg, not quite sure how that works out to be a supposed 2200kg load capacity??? my tool box isn't that heavy.

"I must be doing something wrong" Hi temp silicone for a start. Put it together dry or with a very very light smear of exhaust paste. I assume you are are torquing up the manifold evenly not just winding up the bolts to full torque from slack, possibly why the first manifold cracked. Start torquing the middle bolts first, and work your way out to each end alternating from one side to the other. Retorque the bolts after a 50 miles or so.

First thing you need to do, if going for HGV, is send off a VTG1 to get your MOT booked http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/Application%20for%20a%20First%20Examination%20of%20a%20Motor%20Vehicle%20(VTG%201).pdf

No problems with mine a couple of months ago either. The drop plate on the rear is pretty effective for an under run bar, as long as the rear over hang is less than 400mm it shouldn't be a problem. I think this is the Northern Ireland spec but I think the English one is similar http://www.dvlni.gov.uk/Freedom%20of%20Information/Heavy%20Vehicle%20Inspection%20Manual/Sideguards.pdf and another http://www.transportsfriend.org/road/underrun.html#reg49 Also note the 550mm max height of the side bar, you may find the side boxes etc are around this height, depending on how they are fitted.

Leading cause of death in the UK is heart attack. therefore food and drink is probably the most dangerous thing to your health;)

Just saw this on Ebay, might be of interest http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130772368019&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123#ht_903wt_1397

This place in Old Romney is advertising units for rent. I don't know any details or have a phone number, but drive past fairly regularly.Will try and get phone no. if your interested. https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=50.991806,0.887966&num=1&t=h&z=18

Vass seem to stock the 16" tyres, but I'm thinking that there is a lot larger choice in tyres in the bigger sizes, also I may be able to go for slightly larger diameter tyre to increase mileage.

Not strictly a MV problem. My RB44 comes equipped with 16" wheels and uses Michelin tyres, which I am very pleased with so far, however the tyres are proving difficult at best to replace. The tyres are not going to get any easier to source, so I was thinking of getting some new wheels made. My question/s are, what size would be good to go for 18", 20" and can anyone recommend a wheel manufacturer. I've searched google and came up with a few possibilities but a recommendation always helps. thanks in advance

Best camper bodies.......probably these http://www.unicat.net/en/ Most economical is to probably buy one already done, for a fraction of the cost of doing yourself. http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/4wd-for-sale-wanted/ultimate-offroad-camper-ural-375d-63769 Doing it yourself is almost always more expensive and very time consuming. However it is fun. Have you looked at Gaz66 bodies, fully insulated for Siberian winters, very robust and probably not that expensive if you import one, might even come with a heater already fitted. http://www.gaz66.co.uk/History.html

As a land rover owner (well a mk1 disco) and having worked on numerous land rovers I am under no illusion about their failings, however I do quite like them (older ones not the new junk). What I do find funny is the rose tinted glasses that many land rover owners have regarding their preferred vehicle. I've just got myself an RB44 with all its alleged faults, that everyone seems to very quick to criticise, however the similar failings of land rovers (crap brakes, funky suspension, rust in front of your eyes and poor performance) seem to be revered by the land rover fraternity. p.s the rb44 is proving to be a far more capable and useful tool than any landy I've come across;)

Steering is very heavy when idling, definitely needs a little throttle to turn, careful when cornering, don't take your foot of the throttle.

Re- the manual for the RB44 try http://www.dodge50.co.uk/ and get it for free. XMOD, Lichfields and Crouch recovery all have some parts for them, but not many. Some parts are harder to find than others but being as the vehicle is a "bitsa", axles are modified yank pick-up axles, body work is based on Dodge day vans from the 80's etc etc. there are many crossover parts.

Class VII mot as its about 4 tonne unladen, well mine was, £165 tax, not willing to swap as I've only just got it on the road. I doubt it's cheaper to put on the road, unless you get limited mileage insurance and don't do very many miles, as already stated they get around 20ish to the gallon. They are a lot heavier to drive than a landy as well, and have absolutely no sound insulation, ear plugs are definitely required. Gearbox is backward as well, with no synchro in first.

Finally.......got it registered just short of 3 months:-( from purchase!!!!!!!!!!

On mine all the UJ's have grease nipples, but some need a narrow nozzle on your grease gun. The sliding joints on the prop shafts have grease points also. The wiring is pretty basic, might be worth checking your relays near the steering column, mine had been pinched along with all the fuses:(

Can anyone help with the breakdown of the VIN on an RB44. Does the VIN no. indicate date of manufacture etc. I have searched online and even contacted Reynolds Boughton but no joy. As far as I can make out, they were only manufactured for 2 or 3 years, 92-44 but it would be useful to know which year mine was made. Cheers:)

hope I'm not breaking any forum rules here but being as many of the Rooskie truck forum are on here also I shouldn't think its a problem http://www.russianmilitarytrucks.com You might struggle with a Kraz for registration as they are quite wide. Parts don't seem to be a problem though.

I can hear the laughing already, try to keep it down. Despite my best efforts the "week" to get MOT'd and registered was a bit optimistic:red: Just got the MOT date 8th of August Nearly 2 months FFS I can see this being major PITA in the future. Maybe I'll open an MOT test centre............

Personally I use one of these http://www.ridgidtoolsdirect.com/product.php/124/ridgid_345_flaring_tool Well worth the money if you want a good job done, you are doing brake pipes after all.

A word of caution, I stripped my new prop-shaft to fit the rubber gaiter and found that there was only a very small amount of grease on the splines. This may be the cause of what appears to a high failure rate of the shafts. Both the new and old props had virtually no grease on them, likewise the U.J.s were virtually dry, despite having grease nipples. It seems the maintenance on my truck has been rather hit and miss.

Last time I had any done they were about £25-£30 each and it made a big difference, but I knew it was definitely the injectors causing the problem. As already stated, start by thoroughly checking your fuel lines, filters, lift pump etc first.

David crouch recovery had 2 front props left last Friday, I bought the 3rd one

42:shocked: O.k. I'll shut up.