mammoth

Bosun Al The way to direct us to a web page is to get that page up on your screen and then copy (control & C keys) the URL which appears on the google bar, then paste (control & V keys) the URL into the thread here. All we have to do then is click on the URL and it takes us straight to the page you were looking at, no hunting required. And for others, Please DO NOT use the "reply with quote" button:) as this uses up download data uneccessarily (an issue for those who don't enjoy high speed broad band) - use the "reply" button below the thread screen.

Thanks for the interest. As mine would be the only example in Australia you can understand that I have to look to the old country for spares. The cab rotted out while it was in New Guinea and then in the previous owners leaky shed The front and lower back is ok but the roof is only good for a pattern. I have only one door which is missing the internals and would need replacing anyway. The windscreen frame is there but the fittings are too far gone to use.. The heads (7.4 engine is different from the Matilda tank engine) went missing before it came to me but as I have found a genset with 7.4 engine all is not lost, although transplanting the genset heads would mean that one would be scrap. I think the electricals might be savable although I am looking for the correct vacuum gauge. Freight of course is a major issue but best option would be to get quotes from one of the UK freight forwarding mobs. I would be happy to scan relevant pages from the manual (but don't tell anyone because it is secret - says so on the front) but a full manual becomes a bigger task. PM me with your needs.

I have manuals but being in Australia postage would be dear. There again could do a deal on spare parts.

The crack appears to have started at the wiper bolt, suggesting that there has been some metal to glass contact. Perhaps counter-intuitively the use of glue may have contributed to there being a stress point. The original use of rubber allows the glass some movement inside the wobbly frame.

Would love to see a set of pictures showing the set up for solder dipping the tubes.

Turning a groove in the shaft for a circlip would be my approach. The impeller has moved along the shaft and judging by the damage done does not need reinforcing of the rotational movement.

Not so. With the exception of Western Australia the states have a reciprocal arrangement to accept 'visitors' using historic (sometimes called club rego) conditional registration. The conditions of operation of the home state apply when in the other state. One of those conditions is to carry your certificate of operation and if you don't have it the coppers are entitled to ask difficult questions. NSW is about to introduce a scheme for 'modified' historic vehicles which will catch all those anomalies mentioned in another post. For vehicles on full rego in NSW any modifications have to be passed by a certified engineer with all the same paper work as Qld. They just don't bother with the plate bit.

I bought 18,000 gills from Vintage Wings & Rad. for my Leyland Mkll Hippo. Thought I would be smart and save on freight (to Australia) by doing the threading and getting them dipped locally. What I have discovered is that all the old timers have passed away and I will have to re-invent the wheel. So, I would like to see the set up for soldering the gills on their tubes when it happens.

My thought was also to lift the steering box, though I would go for turned collars which would facilitate some self alignment of the bolt holes. Of course, the original position of the motor has been lost so perhaps it should have been further back?

AEC was metric at one stage but subsequently fell in with SAE standards at some stage. Not sure if it was a war thing or like other British manufacturers well after the war. Certainly Leyland was using bsf etc during the war.

AEC often stenciled their part No on many of the components, so a look at the parts book will reveal if there is a correlation.

Armour plated? Do you have any pictures of what they looked like in service. Presumably it now has a totally different cab. Re the air cylinders being on drivers side are the brakes full air or the early version of air over hydraulic.

Fellow in Australia had screens made for his Thornycroft Mastiff which were of the wrap round style. Fortunately he had another example to be used as a pattern but ended up getting them made in Vietnam!

Replacing the gear would certainly give you peace of mind, however unless you are planning on running it loaded or doing mountain passes I wouldn't expect 2nd gear to see extended use.

Replying with a quote (includes any pictures), which the very critics are doing themselves, is not so much 'operator error' as controls design. When looking at the screen all that you see is "reply with quote" and it is only by scrolling all the way down that the "reply to thread" becomes visible. Putting both options side by side would cure the problem. Took a while to get brake and accelerator pedals side by side, just saying. Steven

The Mat pushing the snow plough in a 2012 post might well be in Australia. The Snowy Mountain Scheme had several Mats so this could well be one of them. The Aussie giveaway is the mechanical hand signal, in this case of the style fitted to buses at gutter level rather than the truck style which hinged out from the door window sill.

Very nice. The rear axle/diff is a Timkin as used in Brockway and other USA makes well into the late 20's. What make is the motor, and is there any indication of which manufacturer put this one together.

Nothing wrong with brazing when used appropriately, in this case a pure shear force. Similarly Velocette used soft solder to assemble the front forks in some of their motorcycles. Likewise, if you had to carry a 11/2" thick wall tube any distance you would begin to think it was over-engineered. They knew what they were doing, just that the accountants had yet to move in.

Plate looks to be issued by a military Corps and states manufacturer as 'Kelly"- as in Kelly Springfield?

Leyland ran an industrial section which although extensive hasn't been written about much. They used most of the conventional Leyland engines and used them typically for gen sets, all self contained mounted on a skid. Most notable differences were the sump and a non pressurised radiator. Oil was circulated through coils in the radiator.

I have been building (over-engineered) cattle yards which involved saw cutting 4" pipes on the vertical mill to take 60mm pipe. When the hole saw lost teeth I thought I would try my new toy - 40 amp Chinese plasma cutter - for the first time. Drew a circle with white marker pen, auto welding mask on 'grind' setting. Even free hand the holes are very acceptable, and if not quite big enough the edge of the cut can be shaved off. What took heaps of set up time, and five mins of cutting now takes 30 seconds! After mig welding the joint is every bit as good. A revelation and not buying another hole saw for this job. So for challenged eyesight ( and my stick welding looks exactly like the previous pictures), after the mig welder a plasma cutter is highly recommended for the Gosling workshop to achieve the recreation of imitation castings and run of the mill steel fabrication.

I was referring to Matadors with the later roof. I am not aware of any of that FWD model ever being in Australia. Not just dimensions would be useful but how each joint of the timber frame was designed. I have the 1/35th scale model which is accurate enough to guide layout but I don't think butt joints with plastic glue will cut it in full size!

Any chance of seeing progress on your cabs Russell? I have this job ahead of me and here in Australia all of the Mats that did get here seem to have lost their original cabs so I have no chance of a pattern to copy. Would be great if someone has made drawings of the components as they went along, or even better has made a CAD program so multiples can be churned out.

Heritage Truck Club have their show on sat & sun 16/17 May at Rocklea Showground (off Grannard Rd, go past Bunnings), although a lot of guys (& gals) turn up on fri to make it a 3 day event. Would have to go a long way to find an old truck show that has something of everything like this one, and isn't swamped by moderns. Tamando is one of several net based clearing houses - get to 'booking overview', 'make a booking', fill details out, quotes come up and you don't have to accept any if you are just looking. When you do it sends invoice to be paid by cred card and then sends you a label and consignment notes (can be emailed to sender) to be attached to item. Lots of smoke & mirrors but once you have the hang of it is easy.

Isn't Wangaratta in Vic? Anyway for freight quotes look up Tamando on the net - and specify depot to depot main highway towns and forklift each end to get the best deal which are often pretty good. I take it you are coming to Brisvegas for the vintage truck show?