N.O.S.

I heard the African ones described on Radio 4 news today as "Technicals" - priceless name!

Barry, when you come to assess the entries, Id like you to know that my first entry worked out at (including spaces) 68 characters for a 1/4" long component, that's 272 characters per inch :-D :-D :-D My second entry worked out at 106 characters for a 3/4 " long item, that's 141 characters per inch What the h*ll am I doing, it's way past bed time, its all your fault, what did you start this thread at this late hour for? :angry: :angry: :angry:

Geting this back to a HMVF orientated topic, I talked with an importer 3 years ago about getting a 3 litre extra cab Hilux, one of a very large consignment confiscated by Spanish authorities from a vehicle ferry ship, en route to a middle eastern destination for use as gun trucks!! The thought of paying money up front and travelling to Barcelona to collect it was enough to put me off.......

And for 2nd prize (it's a little larger), how about VAOS/G1/GA.10526 BOLT, BSF, steel, black, unmachined with hex nut, mushroom slotted, plain neck, mudguard, 5/16 in X 3/4 in

VAOS/Z2/ZB.12878 SCREW, BA, bright steel, round head, N0.4 x 1/4 in, rust-proof (draught excluder) (for a Scammell Constructor G.S. 30 ton tractor Door Assy, Cab, LH) What's the prize? :-D

Got 98,000 miles out of first set of rear brake PADS and 102,000 from fronts on Colorado, with heavy towing work, absolute bu**er to get the pad pins out though after all that time!!!

First check the air filter is not blocked. Second check injection pump timing. :what: :oops2: :embarassed:

They are probably just jealous of your stylish sedan avatar :whistle:

Oiler of course!

P.S. Would look the biz in olive drab :-D

Had one of the very first UK issue 4Runners for 3 years. Reliable motor :tup: Wish I'd kept it!!!!!! At the very least I should have put a pickup body onto it :whistle: Although it is essentially a pickup chassis with the independent front suspension, it is nicely weighted and the 3 litre engine is a beauty, slight wallow in tight bends but holds road well. Brilliant towing truck. Nice transmission. Solid qualityfeel to the body and interior (UK spec was maybe better spec cloth?? Sliding tailgate window is gimmick, in wet weather sucks in water, in dry sucks in dust. But the vehicle is great with a sunroof :-) Assume the import Surf is identical engine :dunno: To sum up, a Hilux with attitude and comfort :-)

That looks to me like a drawbar on the front end, though not a particularly strong one :whistle: What a fantastic machine, wher the heck do you keep finding these pictures from?

Having just had a lesson in the latest thing in munitions from a friend, I'm not sure a tank is a very safe place to be anymore, with or without sand bags, beer cans or plasticine artex.......... This may be common knowlege to you lot, but if you have not heard about "Intelligent Ammunition", you should really google it or go to http://www.rheinmetall-detec.de to learn more :shake: Basically it is a 155mm shell which is fired into the air by conventinal explosive, then at 1km above target area it deploys a parachute and spirals slowly down whilst microwave and IR scanners search and acquire a suitable target. Once target is acquired, a charge inside changes shape from flat disc to projectile shape and hurtles down at crazy speed to certain contact. If for any reason it cannot acquire a target the charge remains in flat form and self-destructs 'safely" on the ground. Several armed forces have this in their arsenal now. Think I'll just stick to the old trucks :shake:

My Toyota Hiluxes were supposed to have EP85/90 or something oddball in them, I used EP90 when it was change time, and was amazed at the detrimental effect on ease of gearchanging for the first few minutes when cold! Once warm made NBD :whistle:

Ouch! Have you spoken with Morris Lubricants on both price and phospor bronze issues? I can only say I've come across some diff thrust washers that have been fairly well etched and looked more like emental cheese. Also something to consider is that the modern stuff is so thin and "runny" that it becomes a trade off between ultimate lubrication and ultimate retainability in diffs/boxes. I'm begining to favour the treacle (traditional straight blend) :whistle: :dunno: :dunno: Perhaps you should persuade Mark to try some viscosity additive - not yet tried it myself, but said to reduce loss through worn shafts/seals etc.

Pleased you have come back on this one, Clive, but I'm not yet convinced that you have grasped the PRIME REASON why people are wary of putting too much info out there :dunno: The only ones with the courage to come out and "say it as it is" were the Hardyferrets, and good on them for doing so :tup:

:what: OVERALLS? :banana: :banana: :banana:

Thanks, you folks. And many happy returns to Mrs HF! I had a great time, segwaying from New Year fireworks to birthday shinanigins, then I fell into the newly dug DUKW pond on way to the clubhouse bike shed - thanks a bundle, Lynn :-D

No speciic knowlege of these beasts, but isn't this an example of the army method of wiring each neutral back to the battery negative to give a fully insulated sytem, as even on trucks etc etc? (i.e. double pole bulbs etc) I thnk it was to do with radio sets or something? :dunno: In which case you should be able to run an earth back via the hull so long as the battery pack is connected negative to earth on hull too? Would be interested to learn more from "them what do know"!!!

Chassis Number - :dunno: Usually inside cab, not on chassis on modern trucks, try looking for plate under or beside drivers seat. Might be inside door pillar of cab, front or back. Just keep looking around in cab, you should find it ;-) Motor Number - plate found on left side of engine, at front, 1/2 way up on side of timing case. Will probably give a Leyland Daf i.d., but it is a Cummins 6B turbo 150hp, all you need for parts! Hope this helps.

In the scrambe to acquire real identities, I feel an opportunity might have been missed - along the lines of the pop legend PRINCE, Richard could have become: The ENGINEER, formerly known as KEWELDE :whistle:

:dancinggirls: They're back (for one night only) Please return in working order and well lubricated after your birthday to the Clubhouse M.T. Stores or else :thankyou:

Which is why you need the voltage regulator/reducer chip, to get down to 6v to go through the gauge and then to tank sender unit. Have you put the chip between the gauge and sender unit? That might explain why you are only getting 2v??? Try putting it on the feed side of the gauge. :dunno: :dunno:

That's just what I thought, Pop, until someone put me right. You have 6 volts +ve, going through the gauge and then to the sender unit in the tank, and then to earth. The sender unit is simply a variable resistor load,which alters the current flowing through the gauge. If you put 12 volts through it you will fry the gauge but not the sender unit. But you don't want to take my word for it, I am one of those anonymous people :whistle: You need to speak to an expert like Rex Ward or The helpful folk at Jeeparts or Dallas Auto or any number of others I don't even know of yet.

I'm not a great tank fan, but these pictures are very evocative - in fact the poor light adds to the atmosphere. Good posting :tup: