Ron

I was going to say exactly the same thing. You will have to hit harder Steve. Stupid as it is!! It's how Matchless did it. I've never come across anything more silly. You adjust the bearings by screwing in a retainer against the outer cup. Too far and you have to start over gain by drifting the outer cups back....Doh!! Ron

Hi Roberto. I buy the low tack stencils here and use a spray can. https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ Ron

You must only drive it into the brake drum side, maybe the dust shield is holding it, or perhaps they have been replaced with ball races? Ron

Thanks Lex. I've got more on file too and some of the German ones, but I try not to talk about them!! Ron

Apart from a couple of bikes, there were no WO contracts for AJS. However quite a few 1940 models were impressed. I have a copy of the parts lists for these. Ron

Steve the front bearings should be the Timkin taper type. To remove the roller cones, take off the brake plate and undo the adjusting nut and it's lock nut and then the dust cover on the left side. Now tap the spindle out with a copper hammer towards the "BRAKE DRUM SIDE" which will bring out the right roller cone, the left cone can then be pushed out. If the bearings clean up ok, then just repack and assemble the opposite way. If they need replacing, you will have to punch out the outer cups. Ron

I've just rebuilt my 5SW box (Same as 3HW) The cam plate and or rollers can wear, also the teeth either or both ends of the quadrant. So to the plungers and springs in the gear change mechanism in the outer cover. Also lining up the teeth in the correct location to obtain all four gears can go wrong. I also replaced the bearings (sealed bearing at the sprocket end), the bushings in the sleeve gear and the kick start and gear change bushes. A new Clutch basket/plates/rollers/springs. 30 odd test miles and all is lovely so far. Ron

Hello Roberto. You have matching frame and engine. 45943 was the 476th bike from 4000 under contract S5340 and delivered in the second half of 1944. The tank census number is C5566443 and the colour at that time was Olive Drab....... (BS 298). Ron

I think it's from contract S1546 in 1944, (Type 2 frame), but Jan will confirm. The front hub is pre war BSA. Ron

Yes that must be the case for the WD Flea and why the engine numbers are prefixed with a "V" to denote Villiers carb. One thing that occurred to me and I've just checked out, is the bore and stroke are totally different. The ML has a longer stoke by 7mm. (ML B. 50mm- S. 62mm.....Flea B. 54mm- S. 55mm) So this must account for the different carb settings. Ron

The carb bodies are the same part number for Flea and ML V577C. The ML has a type 3/1 and the Flea has a type 3/2. This can only be the differences internally. The Flea has a 2 1/2 needle with a No1 jet and the ML has a 3 needle with a No3 jet. The numbers on the needles are the taper %. The stranglers also have different part numbers, but I haven't noticed a difference so far. I've never understood why two 125cc engines have different carb spec, but I haven't looked closely into it. I've no idea what the other number is (3418) Possibly a casting number? Ron

John I gather that bookings from regular dealers and groups have been going on behind the scenes for some time, with lots obviously rolled over from previous canceled shows. My feelings are that people will be looking forward to getting back to normal and with over 3 months of booking time, I can't see why it can't be a normal contingent? ........See you at Weymouth. Ron

No I didn't Guy! I guess wait for the 19th and see what it is. John is a friend and fellow bike enthusiast and we haven't hooked up for months and I didn't want to pry too much into his business affairs. Ron

I just had a catch up chat with John. He's been busy with the UK and German shooting shows and is now back in the office to deal with W&P. All is well with the Hop Farm. The website is open and I gather bookings can be made on line from 19th April. He dropped the "revival" as he just can't see the point of it. It will be great to be back there. Ron

Yes the battery tray should have two flat spigots pocking out and down for those slots in the clamps. Ron

I seem to remember, when Rex fell out with the Hop Farm and moved to Folkstone, he added the "revival" Maybe there is some legal implication regarding that change in name? However, I'll do my best to speak to or visit John over the weekend. Ron

I guess John is back in UK now. I'll give him a ring over the weekend and see what I can find out. Ron

Those Velo battery straps are a silly annoying idea! And they hide up the nice Exide logo😖 Ron

As you probably know, the engines numbers aren't recorded. But should look like this with the four "A's" Ron

Everything is nearly back together now and I even managed to acquire a new clutch basket/chainwheel to go with the recently new plates and rollers. It's surprising how much effect it had on the chain lengths as I had to let go the rear chain to move the gearbox forward enough to join the correct 75 link primary chain. But on further checking I realized that my rear chain only had 90 links instead of the required 91. Fortunately I had the extra link. The timing rattle appears to be gone, or at least to the point of a normal rattle. Which means that the renewal of the cam bushes in the crankcase was well worth the effort. Ron

I spoke to John Allison today in France (W&P show organizer). He said the show is definitely going ahead. Office opens next week. https://warandpeaceshow.com/ Ron

And mine with the lug number, which is not that far away from that bike. Although I'm not sure there was any sequence to the lug numbers. Ron

12031 is over 2000 after the initial 3000 ordered under the last contract, but still before the 1946 civy production. I image lots were made in readiness for continued contracts by the WO but were then re used for the civy market during 1945. Another of the stand out amendments for civy use was the handlebar clamps and possibly a speedo. Ron

They were also known as a "midwifes" bike. Mine is 1939. Ron

And mine, but never did find out what the markings mean? The white dot in a blue circle is on the left side of mine?? Ron