Ron

Yes ruxy the cap was like a ring pull. I thought the cap was crimped somehow, but I've been told that they were soldered on. It would be interesting to know for sure though. I've also read that there was an average percent of lost fuel per mile during transit by lorries due to how easily they got damaged.. I think it was something like 1% per mile? Ron

Nothing that I can see Larry. My comment was to differentiate between a WW2 1 gallon oil can and a post war can. The post war can is quite similar but had a cheaper tin screw cap. Ron

Since my decision to give my MDD a makeover and spray it Khaki instead of its Olive Drab, I put it on the bench today and got the tank, saddle, exhaust and wheels off, and removed the tyres from the wheels. I thought it best to do a trial fit of the bash plate that Jan made. The only issue I encountered which was my fault really, was I had to bore the foot rest mounting holes bigger to 3/4". Because although I'd given Jan the size of the threaded ends of the foot rest shaft as 7/16", the shaft itself is a 1/2" square which is about 3/4" from corner to corner. 😣 Otherwise it lined up nicely. The rear strap which was loose, I bolted on loosely with a 10mm nut and bolt and oversize holes. Once the strap was bolted to its anchor point on the mudguard, I nipped up the 10mm bolt and welded it on, removed the 10mm and welded up the hole. A good half day spent. Ron

It looks like a 1 gall oil can, the screw cap type would indicate WW2 period to me and as mentioned by Rick would usually be date stamped on the bottom. Here are my two "Canadian" cans. The last picture is my genuine 1940 4 gall "Flimsy" Ron

Steve bit gloomy in the museum this morning! But from top to bottom, my number plate is about 9 1/2". The bottom edge virtually sits on the top of the clothes peg clasp. The clasp then takes up the rest of the mudguard. Ron

Yes I had that. They can wet sump very quickly and empty through the primary case. It's why they invented that device. Ron

I'll measure my number plate in the morning and take a close up of where it sits (just above the stand clip I think) Ron

Steve what is wrong with the pictures I posted on Monday in this thread. They show clear enough the number plate position. I'm not sure what other models were fitted with a nearside tool box? Another thing to note, is the "D" shaped pressing in the middle should go inwards. The pressing was modified to outwards for the MAF to accommodated a pocket for the riders handbook. This style was subsequently carried on for post war models. Ron

This is the wheel in Greece. The pictures are good enough to see the spoke pattern and type of spoke. Better than photographing mine which are in the bikes, which also means I can't measure the offsets. I'll check later but I guess they are WM2 rims. The front should be easy as it sits in the middle of the forks, so the wheel builder can work that out. Sometimes it's easier to align the rear wheel in the frame so that the center of the rim lines up with the spine (tank tube). Chris Willis might be the guy to talk to (He's into military bikes himself) http://www.williswheels.co.uk/ Good luck Ron

Speak to Dave at JJ Cables, he knows all about these and will advice you how he wants you to measure it. Mention my name if you want. Ron

The extra 3" should make all the difference😏 Lex did you manage to find that clutch lever clamp? (Final part I think) 🙂Ron

Lex this is how my number plate looks. I will now have 3" sticking out from underneath it. Ron

OK I'm back. Following on from the discussion we had earlier in this thread about the length of the rear mudguard below the number plate....and noting Lex's comment about 4 different lengths used by Matchless. I scaled it from the number plates in this picture of bikes from my contract and make it 3". Mine was too short by most of the 3", so I'm using the battered remnant that Lex gave me and welded a piece of it on to give the desired length. I've also bridged it underneath with a reinforcing piece. The number plate covers most of the joint and a smear of body filler will hide the blemishes. But the rub yesterday was that I suddenly noticed that the piece I welded on was missing the beading round the edge and I wanted to see what was possible to do. So I managed to cut it from my old tail piece and weld it back on. I've started shaping it up again with a layer of body filler, which has yet to be finished off to shape with production paper. Ron

From the bottom of that "V" cutout to the edge of the number plate is about 2". Yours looks much longer. I would start by measuring 2 1/4 " back from the edge, drill 1/4" hole and open it to say 3/8", then slit down the middle and re-work that piece. Ron

But that top shelf on yours looks longer. You might have to re-work it. I'll measure mine in a while.

PS I just measured mine at about 9 1/2" top to bottom. It also seems to lay at a different angle to yours. ooow Matron!

What's the overall height of it? I'll measure mine later. What does the top look like? Ron

Cocked up and can't delete. will re-post later

It's what feeds oil to the cylinder. Ron

Happy new year Steve. MAC's were originally fitted with KLG 831 (Mica insulation) and later (MAF) the KLG F70 (Corundite insulation) . These are the detachable type plugs. The ones you can take apart to clean. There was no plug cap on these, just a brass spade held with either a spring clip or knurled nut. As for modern plugs, I've used Champion for years (I don't like NGK). But I've reverted to Bosch in recent times. By research and trial and error, the standard spec that I've found the most suitable is:- SV's = Champion L86C and Bosch W8AC OHV's = Champion L82C and Bosch W7AC I buy all this stuff from Tim Green. https://www.gsparkplug.com/ignition?gclid=Cj0KCQiAlMCOBhCZARIsANLid6Yr2YNOlZiuMkJPv3mhGKreuyP_GCAqukrDKPGo1d2QyzGvOTPDAOkaApk5EALw_wcB Regards Ron

Under the seat TEC. 1. 43 = Triumph Engineering Company January 1943. By that date I'm quite sure it would be steel cases. Ron

Has anyone in UK got a source for new bar grip tyres for a Dodge weapons carrier? Ron

Yes Colin Goodwin at VOC is the best guy to ask. I'll send you his email address. Ron

Well done Steve. I had my black one up and running for it's new owner, who says it's very lively on the road. They are very light bikes. They are renown for wet sumping and I believe it was Veloce themselves who invented the anti sumping valve which they fitted as standard at some point after ours. My MAF came with one fitted and previous to that I fitted one to my MDD. (They screw into the bottom of the tank). Regards Ron

The early 3HW had an ally chaincase and oil pump cover. Whether you can tell or not from the parts lists how early the change to steel took place would need investigation. Photographic evidence is scarce.(Plus they were painted which makes it even more difficult). But as Jenk suggested, best start with the frame number. This very early 3HW has an ally chaincase. Ron