Ron

No Rik! (I think we were typing together). It's one of those 3/16" sizes. I made it 28tpi and the only reference i found to that size is UNS. Ron

You're doing a grand job of cleaning up. But a few observations if I may. Firstly you don't mention where you are, but your $ reference would indicate USA or Australia? I'm sure there has been some civilian tinkering to this bike. I don't think there would be any need to bodge/break things in a military/REME workshop. Parts for these Amal carbs were and still are easy to obtain. The Air filter is non standard. For normal use the carb would have just had a standard open bell mouth. Later in the war or for extreme conditions, a tank top Vokes filter could have been fitted. Personally I would also have fitted a new slide, to at least eradicate some of the wear that might have taken place in the carb body. I would also rub the flange flat on emery paper taped to a surface plate or piece of plate glass as they are more often than not warped. If you intend to re-tap the idle screw thread, you will need a 3/16 x 28tpi tap. Ron

I've had enough heartache over the last few years with removing de-laminating Petseal from various bikes that I would only use it if I had too. But a guy who is well known round here for motorcycle painting (Larry) swears by Caswell. In some cases it's unavoidable, like fibreglass and even ally tanks I think. Ron

Well Petseal is no good any more! I think the only one I would risk using if I had too is 'Caswell' (google it) Ron

I've pretty well got the cables sorted now which has finally enabled me to fit the Miller dynomag. (I shall avoid this piece of equipment for any future projects!!).... I think I'm now clear to carry on with the build now. Ron

Well I've never heard that. But he's standing guard over mine with a Tommy Gun Ha Ha! Ron

OK Radek. I have built quite a few Royal Enfield forks over the years. They are a bit awkward because of the left and right hand threads on the spindles. But when you are ready I'll try and talk you through it in small steps. Ron

Well that is a long break Radek. Glad to see that your back on it. Let me know if you need any pictures. Ron

The Burman gearbox on a matchless is semi fluid grease. In the old days I think you had to mix axle grease with white spirit. But you can find semi fluid on google. Mind you it's still a bugger to get it in. I stood the pot in simmering water to get it as thin as poss then rodded it in. Takes patience! I think the original idea was to fill the box on strip downs. Ron

Oil debates can get long and tedious. For years and thousands of miles I've used Morris Golden Film Classic 40 in all my bike engines. Which I usually buy off the same guy at Kempton or Shepton Jumbles for £15-£16 a can. There is always someone selling it at jumbles a lot cheaper than the RRP. Ron

Perhaps this picture will help also. Ron

Hi Paul. No both the AJS and Matchless have the dynamo in that silly place in the middle of the engine plates to the rear of the engine which is driven by a chain in the primary case. The Matchless has its mag to the rear of the engine driven by a chain from the inlet cam. The AJS mag is in front driven by the ex cam. Ron

I've just been reminded that it was the 'ARCHER' self propelled gun that had the motorcycle saddle for the gun layer. You can see it on this example, missing the cover (bottom left) Ron PS since I posted this, I've been trying to do some research and asking around it seems that these guns also might have used Rexine on the saddles. So still no conclusive proof about where the canvas saddles were used?

The 'WRIGHTS' canvas covered saddles were not made for motorcycles. They were in fact a gun layers seat for an artillery piece. But over the years some artistic licence has crept in, and I dare say some enterprising squadies might have used them to avoid getting a scorched arse in a hot country. I've even done it on my desert 3HW. Regarding the pannier frames with the 'sliders' I've only ever seen them fitted to Matchless G3L's in original pictures. I reckon they must have been made by or for Matchless. All the rest seem to have the universal wing nut type. Ron

Ferg has made some valid points and observations, especially the one about Matchless modifying and changing parts frequently. In that respect I wouldn't worry about your pillion saddle too much. The central rib could be used on both types of guard. Although it does look a bit close to the riders saddle? I sent you a couple of pictures of mine, which I hope is reasonably correct. Below is a reminder. Although your tank looks the right shape (again there were two variations to the G3L tank) I'm guessing that yours with a bayonet cap, must be post war. It's the usual case also, that a lot of the correct WD parts were changed post war. Like ammeter, switch, levers, speedo etc. All fairly hard to find now and expensive. I wouldn't consider one of the Indian speedos, they don't look at all right. Although I have no idea of their quality, suffice to say a lot of their other stuff is crap. Ron

The trouble is that these plates (or toolbox) could have come from another bike. Best to work from the frame number. If you post it up or PM it. Myself or someone will look it up for you. Check the number directly from the frame (a picture is best) not the V5C (log book) or other documents. Ron

Well the engine is a 350cc and the silencer is the standard Royal Enfield silencer fitted to most models at that time, including the 250's. Ron

It's been well over a month since my last post, but things are still progressing 'SLOWLY'. The Miller Magneto has been rewound and rebuilt. I've also rebuilt the dynamo and modified it from a 3 brush to 2 brush system, so that I can wire it through a modern electronic regulator. Mainly because the original integral cut out unit is knackered. However the guy who supplied me with the mag has a better dynamo body with NOS armature for me, so will re do it when it eventually arrives. I've also managed to borrow best part of a complete set of original cables from an early WDC which will be easier to copy rather than guess all the lengths. Also, Jan refused to allow me to use the silencer that Armours made and has made me one with the double barrelled baffles and oval shape as per an original. Jan also made the dynamo clamp assembly, which again he scaled up from the pictures we have. Ron

I guess you add up the wattage of your bulbs. For instance a 21W headlamp bulb plus say 6W tail lamp and don't forget your brake lamp bulb say 18W = 45 divided by 6 = 7.5. But you would have to check your bulb wattage and of coarse you might use your horn at night whilst braking. I reckon you might have something wrong if you're blowing a 10 amp fuse, Ron

Not me! Since they clash it with Weymouth parade now and I'm on duty there. Ron

Yes there is a cork gasket fitted which is different from the ally case gasket. Brian Tillin did make some, not sure if he has any now. You could try him on 07786861697. He's pretty good with Triumph singles. Ron

I agree with Chris. I run several bikes including my WD/CO and WD/G. Farley low mileage of course, but sometimes I'll manage over 100 miles in one trip at up to 55mph. The only bike that I have a hardened insert in is my WM20 exhaust valve. I kind of wish I hadn't bothered as the first one came out in Normandy one year and spoilt my holiday. (It's been ok ever since a slightly tighter fit one was put in). Also I haven't used lead replacement additives for years. I just use an Ethanol free additive these days on the basis that it can't do any harm even if it doesn't do any good! Ron

Indeed Chris, now I look again at the picture I can see the rivets. With hind site I should take more pictures, otherwise the only way to answer these questions is to pull the bike apart. That picture was taken mainly to show the original KG3 paint that was left inside and under several parts. I managed to match the paint by mixing greens and brown. Ron

What oil to use debates can go on for ever. But I use Morris's mono-grade SAE 40 in all my engines and often a thicker grade (50 in the gearbox. I buy at the jumbles where there are always traders selling it for £14-£16 per 5 litres. (Some gearbox's use semi fluid grease but not Triumph) I don't know of a commercially available chain case gasket (it's different from the ally ones) It's a long time since I've touched a breather valve, but I'm sure it's just a flap disc with no spring. I have canvas covers on my 3HW but it's purely 'Artistic Licence' I'm sure I've seen a war time image of a canvas cover fitted to a bike. But the canvas covered saddles that were produced by 'WRIGHTS' were actually a gun layers seat in an armoured vehicle. I guess some enterprising sole thought it a good idea to fit one to save getting a burnt bum out in the desert heat. Ron

The picture I posted is the chain cover from my WD/L as it's the only one I seem to have a picture of. I'm sure it's just a single disc, held in place by the crescent moon shaped plate above it. It's so long since I've had my WD/C or CO apart, I can't remember how it looks. Ron