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antar

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Posts posted by antar

  1. Look after it Antar - I had a lot of fun but didnt take nearly enough movie footage. Largely due to the lack of prowess of the family.

    Please take some film resulted in 3 lots of movie clip. each about 1 second long...........

     

    Never mind, I have about a minute in total, which is better than nothing.

     

    Don't worry it is in good hands with plenty of other green machines in a nice big dry shed, we had it running last weekend whilst we rearanged everything, not that we are stuck for room !, it's now parked with a standard 432 and a 434. Will get some pictures.

  2. Thanks Topdog for the serial and reg numbers. It is now in a nice big shed with lots of other toys.

     

    Had another look around it today, we would really like to know what the three rubber buffers on the plate above where the aircon unit was ( its missing off this one) are for, should there be something which folds down onto them ?

     

    We would also like to find the correct generator to fit on the roof, does anyone have pictures of what it looked like ?

     

    Here are a couple more pics of the roof hardware.

    DSCF1014.jpg

    DSCF1015.jpg

  3. Thanks for all the replies up to now, in answer to the last post, the generator is in a completly different position on the roof. Generator position is towards the rear right. Iwill get some better pictures next weekend.

  4. This 432 turned up in the collection which I help with some maintenance at. We are interested to find out what it was for and what items are missing off the roof. It clearly had a diesel powered generator on top as both fuel feed and return pipes with quick couplers are still there as well as some power cables. It also appears to have had some sort of fold down arial as there is a row of rubber buffers as if when folded for travel the arial rested on them. Inside there are only a couple of fold down seats on the LHS with a table arrangement on the RHS.

     

    If anybody knows the whearabouts of the corect generator and other aparatus off the roof we would be interested in purchasing them.DSCF0949.JPG

    DSCF0948.JPG

  5. Added a skin of "Proofkote" or body seal/deadener to the underneath and a couple of the bolt on brackets including the jacking points - not that I'd ever use these to lift the vehicle. Just couldn't bring myself to apply upwards force to the middle of the vehicle when it has two major (ie heavy) components, at the front and rear ends. No doubt it was well designed and capable but if I need to lift the vehicle (and I'm sure I will), I'll do it somewhere around the wheel area.

     

    Champproofkoterearview.jpg

     

    We are now preparing to de-rust the body shell and have retrieved some sections of the side panels from the two available donor bodies. We'll use these to replace the lower rusted sill areas (particularly the swaged areas) and add straight sheetmetal to the replacement bits to complete the job. Hope to start that next week. Photos next week, too.

     

    This week though we put in a bit of work on the front diff - feeling our way through the dismantling process. The Tech manuals and the three part (Unit, Field, Base) repair sections aren't all that helpful in providing clues, as to which part gets removed, in which sequence and most importantly, how. Nevertheless, we persevered and removed most of it but remain stuck on how to drive out the lower inner wishbone shaft. It is a must to remove, as we can only access the diff itself after the shaft is out. We did a fair but of judicious pounding, but it shows no sign of yielding to superior force. At the end of the day the shaft, which does have significant rust on the visible areas, is still there.

     

    Champfrontdiff-1.jpg

     

    Does anyone know if it is a simple matter of driving it out, once the grub screw is removed ?

     

    Don't you just remove the 2 aluminium caps each with 4 nuts from the underside of the axle cradle then the diff housing can be extricated from the cradle with a little mauling ? I may be wrong but I think the wishbone pivot shafts may be welded to the cradle. Its a long time since I stripped one.

  6. Well i have been reading your posts so far with great interest and thank you for them ! I think possibly the best thing to do is as some of you have suggested hoarding fv430 parts for the time being at least until withams eventually open the flood gates of fv430 spares which i hope will be in the not too distant future ,

     

    So for the time being its advertise in wanted sections and pester indviduals in dealers yard and at shows for fv430 bits and see what i can amass together ,

     

     

    Maybe its a good thing i cant afford a chinook or a mil 8 otherwise no dealers yard would be safe :nut:

     

    Puzzled of Stockport asks.... why did you not buy the virtually brand new starter motor off me a few months ago which was offered to you at a very reasonable price ?

  7. We started work on the LH side of the Champ floor yesterday.

     

    This is what we started with -

     

    ChampLHbtybox.jpg

     

    ....and we began by renewing the side rail which is probably the first building block. We left as much of the floor as possible to give good reference points for the new metal - but I don't think there will be much of the original floor remaining when we've finished this side. The floor is hanging by a thread in this photo, but was soon persuaded to let go -

     

    ChampLHfloorbeingremoved.jpg

     

    ... after that we cut out most of the horizontal floor back almost to the rear wheel arch and then fabricated and welded in, the outside section of the battery box.

     

    ChampBatyboxsidereplaced6Jun12.jpg

     

    The battery box floor is completely knackered, so we'll have to fashion a replacement, probably next week along with the front and rear vertical sections of the box itself. Amongst other things it will be just a trifle difficult to create the lipped holes in the floor, for the large torsion bar adjusting rods - we'll see. Then comes the task of aligning and welding in, all the captive nuts and connecting bits, under the floor.

     

    We've also renewed the jacking points on both sides now, though I would be very reluctant to use these - it seems too much to expect the vehicle to remain intact with all the weight at either end and jacking in the middle !

     

    Malcolm Scott can supply exact replica floor pans, makes the job a whole lot easier !

  8. Good luck with the test Mike I took mine in my Sabre last year. Would guess you really have to watch the observation in a Spartan with visibility being a bit more limited - I really need to put a cushion in mine as I struggle, esp with the smokes on.

     

    If you havent got them already get some of Marcus Glenns big convex mirrors they are a big help!

     

    Although I found the test quite straightforward it certainly wasnt in the 'drive it once round the field' category that some would have you believe. For a start the examiner insisted it was on public road (in a housing estate), and it involved a number of laps in either direction, and parking up in various places, then a few highway code questions. I passed but main thing i was picked up on was position on road esp at junctions so watch out for that, its very easy to go too far right, esp with the left hand drive position. I also know somebody who failed because he got mixed up over indicator direction and indicated left instead of right. Although he corrected straight away examiner said it had to be instant fail.

     

    Some good tips in the tractor and specialist vehicle test booklet produced by dvla.

     

    Cheers

    Timbo

     

    Did my tracked test with Terry Brooks at Manston in Kent last year in a Scorpion, half on private area of airfield and half on public roads including an A road and dual cariage way and roundabouts within an industrial estate. I passed but lost a few points for not canceling an indicator.

  9. Confused. com?

    The advert shows something where the ballast body would be. Is this something masquerading as a ballast body?

     

    Yes it is a steel body that david built to similar dimensions as the proper one fitted to the Mk3A variants. It also has the hydraulic PTO plumbed in with a spool valve mounted on the rear N/S wing but I cannot recall what it is connected to. This is the ex Cooper Antar.

  10. The price of the ones on E-Bay seems reasonable to me unless it goes silly near the end of the listing. If you are going to Evesham, National MVT show in June and can hang on till then Iwill bring some with me. Not sure on the price yet as Ihave to pick them up off my local supplier.

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