Diana and Jackie

Diana

Thd correct and SAFE ply rating for Ferret tyres is 16.. anything less and the sidewall is too thin and weak

Diana

LHM brake fluid (commonly used in some Citroen and Jaguar cars) = mineral brake fluid = green brake fluid (often but not always).

Diana

I need to renew the oil in the Samson braking and steering system after a complete overhaul.

The manual specifies OM-11 Oil, What would be the best replacement, Google comes up with AeroShell Turbine Oil 3.

What do most CVRT owners use for this application?

Remove fuse from rev limiter, fuse is adjacent to ignition coil, if it fixes it you have a faulty rev limiter.

Diana

Tim

It feels like I'm making progress, thanks to the help I'm getting here. I now know it's not the electrics, the fuel or the fuel pump - narrows it down nicely!

Yes I've got the deck off, and I've had the carb off before. That's not to say I haven't somehow fouled it up, but I didn't dismantle it at all, just gave it a good spray with carb cleaner.

The cold start seems to be working fine, the mechanism on the front of the carb moves easily enough.

I've tried the throttle with the engine switched off and the top off the carb, although the two jets don't spurt brilliantly equally, fuel does come out of both into the main chamber of the carb.

What's weird for me is the way it suddenly shoots up to such high revs - I guess something is either stuck or flooding it?

I'm ready to take the carb off again (hate that job - I know sooner or later I'm going to drop something somewhere I shouldn't ) but I'd love to have a suggested cause before I do!

Cheers for the help and support, Mike

Diana

A Million Bullets: The Real Story of the British Army in Afghanistan - Jacking Strut Collapses and Kills a soldier

Page 249

Diana

Not an expert on these matters but I believe your assumption to be correct.

I also believe there are two oil seals which may need replacing (or to be more accurate if one is U/S then the other is also likely to be on its way) and you will need new clutch linings.

Diana

I had a bit of smoke coming out of the engine louvers today while doing a bit of shuffling about on the drive.

 

It appears to only happen while doing any lowspeed steering maneuvers or neutral turns.

 

I found that the clutch drum was very hot and there are some signs of oil spray around the front bay, in line with the clutch.

 

I am assuming that the gearbox input shaft oil seal is leaking and oil is getting onto the clutch lining and burning off when doing a lot of low speed maneuvers.

 

This is what the clutch looks like from the outside and I think it shows some oil streaks.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]92052[/ATTACH]

 

Does an oilseal leak on the gearbox input shaft cause this sort of symptom?

Be aware, as I discovered, there are possible differences in the Land Rover Cylinder and the CVRT cylinder, it would seem the main bore seal and size can be matched but the small seal at the rear of the piston, which may appear the same along with its piston are different, the trick is to re-use the small seal rod and spring. The end of the small seal rod should completely fill the inside of the mineral oil seal.

Diana

Chris

 

Before I forget it is 90569128...

 

I dont have any mineral oil to soak the seals at the moment, so it will take a while. Annoyingly I have an unopened 25 litre tub of ISO10 but it's on the back of my Saladin, 120 miles away..!

 

Cheers

Tim

It is possible for the cog wheel you mention to be damaged, this is the damage I referred to. Its also possible for the adjuster to be wound so far up that it won't adjust anymore - this is the other situation I refer to when I talk about maladjustment and this seems a the most likely cause..

The other possible but unlikely options are drum overskimmed or leading edge of shoes in the wrong position relative to the forward motion of the vehicle brake drum in question.

Hope that helps

Diana

Hi Vince,

Suggest you wind in both adjusters, if you have the drum off you can or should see this happen, as the bottom shoe pin (for want of a better word) goes in and as does the top shoe pin.

With the drum fitted, wind out (clockwise) the adjuster which is the outer square of the two adjusters until the shoe contacts the drum, then wind in again clockwise the hex bolt head (or inner adjuster head) until the opposing shoe contacts the drum. Then tweak both as required.

There is generally some small free play in the wheel if its off the road and the amount of wheel rock can determine if the shoe is in contact with the drum, the correct way is to jack up the vehicle completely off the ground or at least one side in turn,

It is possible to mal-adjust the brakes such that only one shoe contacts the drum, it is also possible again through maladjustment to damage the adjuster, the damage can be seen with the drum off if one observes how it works.

When all wheel brakes have been adjusted the next move is to adjust the linkage such that when the handbrake is pulled equally on all 4 drums so they lock together. This is best done with the escape hatches off as the to do this adjusters for the rear wheels are under the battery boxes. The front wheel adjusters are easily accessible inside the vehicle from the drivers seat.

Diana

Technical question - I had to de-adjust my Ferret brake shoes to get the brake drum back on. When I wound the outer adjuster bolt in and out, I can see the adjuster mechanism working for the top shoe. When I wound the inner collar for the bottom shoe, both sets of adjuster gears wound. Now the adjuster collar spins round and round and nothing moves! What is the likely cause of this problem, and can I assume that this will require the brake shoes/carriers to be stripped off (yet again!) in order to repair it? I did test it prior to reassembly and all seemed to work ok. Is it easier to remove the hub to work on the brake assemblies? I did manage to unseize a brake tappet without removing the hub.

 

Additionally, does anyone have any tips for fitting the return springs to the shoe carriers? Very fiddly and annoying to do.

Probable this seal kit will work too

Diana

http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/Brake-Cylinder-Seal-Kits/David-Brown-CASE-Tractor-Master-Cylinder-Brake-or-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Seal-Kit/57736

The frequency response of most speech telephone equipment is tailored to voice not music 300 Hz ~ 3Khz

Diana

Gary

 

Maybe not quite so big is the "loudspeaker gun control" which has a built in battery and transistor power amplifier of the later larkspur era. These use a 600 ohm field telephone input so should be adaptable to a low power source such as the iPod. They are surprisingly loud for what they are but really need a 12V supply (the original battery was a 12V pack in a PP9 9V case). There is one pictured at top right of http://www.g0ozs.org/clansman/G0OZS/DSCN6255.html with the perforated grille.

 

If you had more than one you could probably feed them in parallell. They work well from the remote output of a Clansman set which is how I use mine.

 

There was a series of larger PA systems intended for a battery rather than a single gun under the "Apparatus Loud Speaking" name see: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?10416-Apparatus-Loudspeaking-No-25-for-sale - I dimly remember that No. 23 was a bigger system with several speakers but cant find immediately accessible documentation on line.

 

Regards

 

Iain

The CVRT handbrake is made by Neate Brakes, now owned by TB Davies UK. They are located in Bridgend South Wales who are happy to have individuals contact them.

• TBDUK Ltd
  
• Waterton House,Waterton Industrial Estate
  
• Bridgend, CF31 3US
  
• United Kingdom
  

• Mon - Fri 08.30 to 17.00
  
• Tel: 00 44 (0) 16 5665 2202
  
• Fax: 00 44 (0) 16 5665 2229
  

Diana

The Cylinders were originally supplied by AVMERITOR who sold on that part of the business to CARLISLE HEAVY BRAKES. The original part number of the cylinder which is still maintained is PMM111.

Carlisle will not sell direct to the public but the seal kit whose part no is MIN19 can be obtained from Bristol Heavy Vehicles on 01179 593582 using either a bank transfer or cheque.

Diana

Chris

 

Before I forget it is 90569128...

 

I dont have any mineral oil to soak the seals at the moment, so it will take a while. Annoyingly I have an unopened 25 litre tub of ISO10 but it's on the back of my Saladin, 120 miles away..!

 

Cheers

Tim

Thanks Vince - cant see any signs of a leak, the tank has some fuel in it, no sign of paint bubbling - maybe a pinhole as you suggest.

Lots of good ideas from the forum members thanks all. I shall report back if found.

Diana

I had the same issue which turned out to be a leaking fuel tank which was not readily apparent. I determined this by adding one Jerry can at a time over the course of a few days and noticed the floor paintwork had begun bubbling up.

Or the fuel gauge sender seal? Hope you're not a smoker and dont work on it on your own!! Both of these are on the top of the tank arent they so if perished would allow fumes out without any visible leak...?

Not a smoker and plenty of new fire extinguishers to hand, also well vented.

Fuel pump filter and magnet were both filled with debris, main filter was Ok. Carburettor was also filled with many particles of either rust or sand (or maybe both)

I'll look forward to removing the commanders seat !

Diana

What about the Bendix fuel pump under the drivers seat? There is a cap on the end to get to a filter, maybe not fitted tight or the seal leaking, ....... or pipes as has already been said.

All checked no leaks at pump or filter - I am beginning to suspect the seal around the commanders seat as the most obvious culprit for the fumes now that its been mentioned in the next post by Chris. - yet another nightmare!

Diana

Yet to start delving but there are no petrol leaks in the fuel tank, but the fumes in the vehicle are horrific and it has to be vented before I can work on it.

Has anyone any ideas where the source maybe? and where is the breather system. I've located the water drain around the filler cap and the filler seems quite airtight.

Diana

Be aware that Carlube have discontinued SAE10w-40 mineral oil

Diana

As one who knows about and has done lots of such things- depends on how much heat.

Any heat will probably destroy the wiring integrity

Try :

Remove Jet, remove cleaning needle, re-assemble with cleaning needle removed and try again. If it still leaks then either the valve isn't shutting off or there is a problem with the casting.

On the site mentioned in this thread there is a sectioned cut-away of the whole thing.

Diana

Anyone have an exploded view or even operating instructions. Eventhough I have turned mine off fuel seems to seap passed the valve and gather in the cup, I have stripped it down several times but cant work out whats going on.

 

Thank you

Try heat - small mini butane torch directed at the metal to metal joint, but not red hot of course.

Diana

Hi all,

 

Does anyone have any magical tips on un-seizing the alloy plugs. As you can see the swivel above totally corroded and disintegrated. It has been soaking in plusgas for a week now and even with tentative taps still won’t budge. Or is this a case of cut it off and buy a new one? Its about 3 inches in diameter and is the belt driven alternator off a FV432 B81.

 

Cheers,

 

Charlie

??????????

FR4 - operation Rumplestiltskin :-D

Fr 4.......

yes, i thought that suspicious, also as the name was withheld.........walter mitty no doubt

Odd joke - potential racism

Diana

Think it was a joke...........................Wales does after all have its own assembly!!!

After all the posts above any chance of the contact details??????