Diana and Jackie

If The Indicators operate normally then its highly likely the relay in the switch is faulty.

There is a cover over the switch/relay which you will have to remove to get at the innards.

Diana and Jackie

Thanks for this :-)

 

My hazzard switch only currently operates one side of the indicators. I think it will be a winter job.

 

Cheers

 

Matt

If you find a stubborn grease nipple place a cloth (a cotton hankie is good) over the grease nipple then place the grease gun over the nipple and force the grease through the cloth.

Works every time!

Diana and Jackie:nut:

My Parners son, who is a serving soldier not long back from Afganistan after being wounded tells us he is about to undergo military driving training in: -

A Landrover, Tank and a FERRET!

Details of this Ferret will be made known as soon as we know ourselves.

We will be offering him an advance course on ours plus allowing him to get extensive servicing knowledge whilst we watch.

In order to cut cost we are prepared to offer this to others in the military at a much reduced rate, thus allowing them to sell of their last? remaining Ferret (to us :-D)

Diana and Jackie :cool2:

What was ommitted is the time spent recovering from the cuts bruises and scrapes, as well as the money spent on bandages and plasters as you perform feats of unimaginable gymnastics getting to the bits never got to before...

Diana and Jackie

Just sent to me by a chum in the US...I lopve the ones that I have highlighted..

 

 

• Immediately after you purchase the Historic Military Vehicle (project) you have chosen to restore, another similar vehicle will come up for sale. It will (a) cost less ( be in better condition © be more complete (d) be closer to home (e) have a "history" (f) almost be sold to some fool who wants to paint it day-glow orange and put a giant fiberglass ant on the roof and use it for his exterminating business or (g) any combination of 'a' through 'f'.

• Any restoration effort will cost at least four times more than you figured. Any restoration effort will take at least eight times longer than you figured.

• Immediately after you buy your project vehicle the formerly unlimited supply of parts for it will disappear forever, having been bought up entirely by some third world country.

• The man behind the counter at the parts store will inform you that they had the exact part you require in stock last year but they have stopped carrying it because the only manufacturer went out of business forever.

• When you have finally located the rare and elusive wing-ding-thing for your restoration at a reasonable price and it will be so far away or it will be of such a size and weight that shipping will effectively triple the cost making it completely unaffordable.

• Friends who promised to lend a hand suddenly become strangers.

• As soon as you bring your project home, your spouse (who formerly approved the purchase) looks upon it with a jaundiced eye and announces that it makes the driveway look "cluttered."

• No matter how well you protect your "baby" from the weather, some rain will get in.

• As soon as you have a few extra bucks to spend on your project a major household appliance will self-destruct.

• Sandblasting media does more scattered on a linoleum or hardwood floor than it ever will on your project at 150 psi.

• Some militia types you've never seen before will stop and ask for directions to this evening's meeting of the local chapter. You will be photographed speaking to them by the nice men in the Tasty-Treat ice cream truck nearby.

• For several months afterward you will notice an odd static sound in the background while using your phone and it will appear that some stray dog has been going through your curbside garbage twice a week.

• Some "bubba" will walk up your driveway and offer you "a coupla hunnert bucks fer that there huntin' vehicle."

• Wherever and whenever you order parts for your project there will always be one less in stock than the total number that you need.

• A restorer's eyes are always bigger than his wallet.

• A restorer's heart is always bigger than his head.

• A restorer always takes the $25 dollar helicopter ride at the county fair. (You can check for hidden treasures easier that way.) This is also why Ultra-lights and sunny days were designed.

• Four year olds are perfect for retrieving tools from beneath your project. This is one of the few things that gives them a sense of purpose in their life at this age.

• The weather will turn to crap on the few days that you have available to work on your project. Typically, it will rain on your days off.

• It frequently costs as much (and is better) to buy a specialized tool and do a task yourself as it is to pay to have the job done. Besides, you get to keep the tool.

• Tall toolboxes are impressive to look at but are impractical if you can't see into the top trays and drawers.

• Spouses of restorers know that we go on Sunday drives only to look for hidden treasures. < AND > Serious restorers always keep a small pair of binoculars and a notepad/pencil in the glove box.

• Never pay more for "potential" or for "sentimental value." Never violate this rule.

• If you are trying to work on your project while babysitting, the child will get start crying inconsolably at the very moment your hands are fantastically filthy.

• At some time your spouse will give your child a tool "to help daddy" work on the project. The child will invariably chip away with it on an exposed, painted surface. Your spouse will do nothing to stop this and will look lovingly at your offspring, clasp her hands to her bosom and exclaim, "Isn't that CUTE!" Count to ten while formulating an appropriate response.

• Some tools that are made in China actually work and will serve the occasional restorer well. But only SOME.

• Restorers keep their favorite tools in places of honor.

• W.W.II tool wraps are as useful today as they were then.

• Where rust is an issue, commercial bodied projects are a pain in the ass.

• If you always wanted (for example) a half-track, and you find, say, a decent half-track headlight at the flea market for cheap, go ahead an buy it. It may be enough to quell the urge, thereby saving you thousands of dollars and allowing your children to go to college someday. Otherwise, you could call it a good start and besides, having half-track parts lying about really impresses some folks.

• Someone will come to you and describe what you recognize to be a rare project vehicle that just came up for sale on some obscure county road but (a) "just came up for sale" means they saw it there three years ago, or ( they can't quite remember which county road it was on because they had never been on it before or © any combination thereof. Before you do anything try to determine if this conversation is divine guidance or is simply the work of Satan.

• A project that is disassembled takes up ten to fifteen times more space than an assembled one.

• Many projects are worth more in parts, than all together. Personally, I think this is some kind of cruel joke.

• Invariably, many restored parts of your project will find their way into your house. This is not a bad thing and can give you hours of personal satisfaction as you gaze upon them.

• Restorations take on a life of their own.....and in fact, some have very sharp teeth.

• The more time you have, the less money your restoration will cost. Conversely, lots of money can make a restoration short (and sweet).

• If you must drive across the country to bring a project vehicle home, plan on stopping by many places of interest. Invite some friends along. Road trips can be a mini vacation and a source of endless conversation and story-telling later. Besides, your pals can pay for some of the gas.

It may indeed be a "HELLA" make switch. Terminal 15, which is the unswitched live feed is not used.

On the rear of a switch is a relay, this switches the nearside (Kerbside in the UK) indicators.

On our switch this was damaged, so I cut it out and replaced it with a bolt on relay wired to the old relays terminals.

The relay is used because the Ferret's existing indicator relay cannot cope with 4 indicator bulbs.

The small bulb in the middle of the switch which is not show can be replaced with a Maplin BT53H, with two soldered blobs on each side of the bulb.

The end result is shown below.

Hope this may help someone!

Diana and Jackie

I recollect it is a Hella component, but do not have any details to hand, but just scanned a page from Hella catalogue of mid Eighties, with two circuit diagrams for 24v. Hope it is of use.

If the brake fluid is changed every 2 years then the cylinders should last a long time.

Brake fluid loves water ( and eats paint) so after a while the water it absorbs collects in one spot and then rusts any steel/iron in that area.

It's possible to maladjust the brake adjuster on a ferret such that even when the brake cylinder/handbrake is working correctly the brake will not come on (both foot and handbrake). I was quite amazed by this, which I only found out following removal of the brake drum, after we'd renewed the wheel cylinder and the brake still would not work.

The cure is to slacken off both adjusters so that they are both fully wound in (no thread showing with drum off).

Replace the drum and then adjust the square adjuster first followed by the hexagonal adjuster.

Diana and Jackie

I am suspecting now that my right front brake problem isn't a matter of adjustment but a matter of a seized wheel cylinder. Is this a common problem? I ordered a pair so I can replace it if needed. Anybody have experience with this problem?

The circuit is a modified turn indicator circuit, using a hazard switch which incoporates a relay on the switch, looking on the web there is a similar system but for 12 volts.

I've found loads of circuits for the landrover but they dont use this particular hazard switch.

It doesnt help that flasher relays have incomprehensible numbers but this site is helpful in explaining that. http://www.airheads.org/content/view/159/49/

I may end up modifying the circuit to use an electronic relay, and a new switch.

Here is a kit for 12 volts -https://www.holden.co.uk/displayProduct.asp?pCode=SFB300

unfortunately it won't work on a Ferret 24 Volts, besides I am not going to pay £60

I belive the Ferret was modified with Hazard Flashers when it was sent to Northern Ireland .

Diana and Jackie :nut:

Deleted the bit about the hazard warning circuit

Hi,

The Hazard warnings do not work on our Ferret - I've investigated and the problem lies with the switch - which no one appears to have. I belive it can be repaired as the problem is simply the small relay built into the switch which I plan to substitute, the current relay has disintegrated.

Has anyone got the circuit? and before I get bombarded with "go look at http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/" the circuits there do not have the wiring for the hazard warning switch - despite the website saying so. only the indicator wiring minus the hazard circuit.

I have looked at every circuit possible I can find and none refer to the hazard warning switch.

Diana and Jackie :nut:

Hi,

Were you able to fix it it did you have to replace it?

Our ferret gushes water out of the valve (Overheating) when it comes up the hill outside our home- maybe the revs are too low, but I'm suspicious of the valve.

Only recently fixed the temperature guage so not yet able to see the overheating situation as the vehicle is off road having a beauty treatment on its brakes - driving with brakes on 3 wheels as the previous owner was doing is not good for ones health. :shocked:

Diana and Jackie

after changing quite a few items turns out over heating prob was all down to valve on top of rad not closing which was stopping cooling sytem pressurising now temp never goes above 195 f even on longest hills . all good learning curve!!!

All seals renewed, transfer box drained and refilled with Carlube EP90.

The hardest parts were removing the spilt pins holding the drive shaft flanges, especially at the rear, luckily we had a breaker bar otherwise we would never have been able to remove some of the bolts, plus two good quality socket sets, and the most essential part a magnetic pickup.

Joints were sealed with Silicon RTV and fingers crossed we cannot see any leaks.

Finally below are the brake band adjusters, which dont look too bad?

We'll be checking the level of all gearboxes for a short while.

The green "pipe" is in fact spilt hosepipe over the tachometer drive to protect it, the appaling black things are the battery cables which we'll be replacing with welding cable from TCL.

Thanks to Richard for his help!

Diana and Jackie

Diana and Jackie,

 

I cannot remember how far up the gearbox, the correct oil level is, looking at the sectioned drawings in EMER's, the seals are quite high up, ie on mainshaft level through gearbox geartrain, that means the bottom part of the geartrain is below seal level, so if oil level is below this, then it is passing to the t/box by some other means. I cannot think that both seals have failed, a bit of time investigating will pay off hopefully.

 

regards, Richard

Hi Richard,

We'll ponder this and get back to you... on the face of it then it seems possible to fill both boxes with SAE30?

There's a world of difference between SAE30 and EP90, I do know that one box has oil and the other, which I had filled correctly is not now filled correctly...on top of which the transverse box oil which we withdrew had all the look of water contamination (milky) though I am not sure if that was an effect of mixing SAE30 and EP90...

Its bad enough having oil seals on the outside without having them inside.

In any event sometime this weekend the brake band cover over the adjusters is going to come off so we can assess the state of the brake bands.

Diana and Jackie

Hi Diana and Jackie,

 

When I worked on Ferrets for the army, I remember that a few Ferrets had transmissions with a common oil level, and 30 engine oil right through (ie gearbox and transfer box). There was little to identify these boxes, other than something painted on the top. They still had two fillers and two dipsticks. If you have lost some of your gearbox oil since draining the transfer box, this could be the answer. Did you notice what the oil drained from the t/box was like?

 

This did not appear at the time, to be a general modification, so perhaps it was a trial. It just could be you have one of these boxes. I have just double checked the EMER's and nothing mentioned in them. If you look in the top of the gearbox, and observe the current oil level, it would be just below centre of mainshaft if seals were faulty, but if much below that, then I would think this is one of the odd boxes.

 

Richard

Hi again Richard,

Changing these particular seals is not difficut - we decided to do all four, and took the side hatches off to do it as well as replacing all 16 prop shaft bolts and nylocks with new high tensile ones.

It now maybe that the 2 seals between the gearbox and transverse box are also gone hard as I have a suspicion that the gearbox oil level is dropping, now that the transverse box is empty after we suctioned it out with an oil pump.

A new gearbox is an astronomical price :-| so how easy or hard is it to change those 2 seals plus the input shaft seal and we may as well do the brake bands?

Apart from deterioration with age the gearbox appears to be OK.

Diana and Jackie

Hi Girls,

 

You did not say which seal was leaking, if it is one that goes to a front propshaft, then a relatively easy job, you will need to drain the transfer box oil first. The nut in the centre of the flange will be tight but if the other shafts are on, then the flange will not turn. You may need a pluller to remove the flange, but cross that bridge when you get to it, it may come off with a slight tap, there is a split pin securing the nut. Once the flange is removed, the seal housing can be unbolted and seal removed and new one fitted. Make sure there is no rust or mark on the seal path of the flange. If you have to change a seal on a rear one as well, the practise of doing a front (easy), will help.

 

best of luck

 

regards, Richard

Thanks Richard - eactly the advice we needed. We do have a pullers.

And Yes the cylinders usually come with cables if new parts.

Diana And Jackie

Its a mark 2 - that's the problem - removing the turret!

If the 4 prop shaft drive oil seals can be changed with the box in situ please let us know.. just changed the 4 brake cylinders and cables - the cable adjuster on the rear offside is a PIG to get at/adjust, so dont fancy removing the box after all that if possible.

Diana and Jackie (The Ferret Girls)

We have a problem!... apart from the others this is a big one :nut:

leaks from the differential prop shaft output - a faulty oil seal. Does anyone know how many oils seals if any (yes know about the fluid flywheel seal can) be replaced on the gearbox/diffferential/prop shaft drives without removing the gearbox - but maybe pulling it back and removing relevant bits?

Diana and Jackie