Diana and Jackie

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-water-repellent-seal-clear-5ltr/57474

Diana

What's the best stuff to use to re-proof canvas. Some people suggested using Thompson water seal. What's best.

Hair dryer? heat applied very carefully (as its an aluminium alloy) and cheap spray oil usually frees things off in time too.

Diana

If it's alloy, the other alternative is cold. Place in a plastic bag in the freezer for a few hours. What about dumping in it in an old pressure cooker for a couple of hours?

Get a very small screwdriver that will fill the hole as much as possible, sharpen it so the blade is sharp, place in mixture screw hole, with a carb body held firmly tap and rotate the screwdriver and tap (not hit violently), with luck the screwdriver will bite into the brass and the taps will loosen the screw whilst the screwdriver is being turned.

Diana

Ive soaked it in plus gas to try loosen it up but no joy looks as if its been snapped for quite a while end of threaded part i took out was tarnished,its seems as if its been screwed in as far as it could possibly go and then some,going to take very small drill bit and extremely steady hands to drill and smallest extractor available. .o happy days...thanks for help..:kiss:

Is it actually stick in there? or is it difficult to turn whilst broken off, sometimes you can turn it by coaxing with a small screw driver. The other option is warm water, heat soak in penetrating fluid and try again, or a small hole down the middle of the mixture screws and use a screw extractor.

Diana

Hi all.im currently restoring a ferret scout car got her running with little effort carb leaking fuel and not ticking over correctly so so decided to refurb carb,came apart ok apart from when i unscrewed volume control screws one of them was broken off inside just past end of threads i can see the tapered end from the apature in carb it is siezed /stuck in there,has anybody had experience on this problem or is it case of get another carb?all help much appreciated. ...cheers

Recently bought a GPMG replica from them - it didn't fit the Spartan mount, so they came all the way from Sussex - a round trip of 6 hours plus to measure the mount, took the original back and sent me one that fitted.

I would highly recommend them.

Diana

Thinking of getting a Browning .30 cal GPMG for my jeep.

 

Not buying a deact, cos of the now huge cost!!

 

 

So, has anyone bought one from Crossfire replica's as from the limited pitures it look good.

Having already had help from you lot before, it would be good to know what you all think.

 

Muckabouts look ok, but?

 

Any other advice would be good.

 

cheers.

If you have eliminated everything else try bleeding at the injectors.

Diana

I know it comes as second nature to most on here but I just want to check that we not missing something.

 

We have a Diesel engined (Ford) Coles crane that we are trying to get back into operation after about 4 years laid up inside a shed.

The engine refuses to start after numerous attempts and checking through the fuel and air systems.

 

Does anyone have an idiot proof checklist they could post up?

 

The crane was driven into the shed and shut down and no engine work over the last 4 years.

works out about £20 a mile ! PLUS fuel of course :-)

Diana

I spoke to Cooks, they wanted £16k+vat for a set of tracks for my Stormer Shielder!

For all those on a quest for conduit try :- http://www.rapidonline.com/

Diana

I regularly get Police Officers ask me are my armoured military vehicles road legal as they pass by the number plate! Anything outside of a robbery is not on their agenda and even a robbery or theft these days is something they don't care too much about, so when it comes to firearms activated or otherwise and the law they are in a world of their own.

Diana

Trelleborg sealing solutions (uk)ltd

international drive

tewkesbury

gloucestershire

gl20 8uq

united kingdom

hi all is anyone able to help with a source for new oil seals for the centrifugal clutch nsn 5330-99-3639724 part no. Fv792970 your help is appreciated.

daz

Go onto ebay - the pads there are dirt cheap or use the ones you found - they aren't special as Chris implies.

The brake pads are another animal, made to an MOD spec as are the calipers. Probably easier to get new friction material bonded to them in the US. Similar for the handbrake bands.

Diana

The specialist houses seem to want £44 to over £100, add the shipping cost since I'm in the US and it's an item.

 

Since the calipers are the same as an E-type I looked around and found a part number for E-type pads.

I found some pads but I guess since they are Jag parts, shops still wanted some money for them. Taking that girling part number and doing a direct search for it turned up a Volvo application.

I found some at classicgarage.com for $13US/set (item GI-GP83) that fit nicely and look identical to the ones that came out (well, apart from the rust and cruud).

I suppose it is vaguely possible the compound on the CVR(T) pads is some special compound but I doubt it very much.

 

Any reason I shouldn't use them?

 

thanks,

Sean is correct in that a tractor may or may not be an agricultural machine (re: The Regs) . You will have to complete a 112G which is basically an exemption from testing. My local postoffice looked at it and threw it in the bin - so what that was all about goodness knows. On that I declared The Ferret a tractor, whichever way you go about it those vehicles cannot be tested ORDINARILY because of the fixed 4 wheel drive. There maybe other reasons. When I made some enquirers about a 4 wheel brake tester some time ago there wasn't one in South Wales

I did have an exchange with the DVLA about the 112G because when you go to tax the vehicle (Ferret or otherwise) online you may not be able to because of deceleration of exemption, and there was no way last year to do that online, stupid as it seems. Even the DVLA didnt know why that could not be done.

Diana

Hi Diane

 

Do you have it under the Tax Class of Agricultural Machine then? If so, what was your view within that heading? Off Road Tractor?

 

Thanks

 

Antony

The DVLA may have different ideas about what is what, and yes I do know that a Shielder is not a Spartan.

 

Correct - as per construction and use regs albeit that a tractor in the minds of the public has everything to do with farms, having said that I've only heard of one Ferret hauling anything.

 

Diana

Ferret and a Spartan The Ferret is classed as a tractor - but that doesn't mean it is an agricultural vehicle, personally speaking the rules are not fit for purpose as some true agricultural vehicles can go these days at up to 60MPH, things have moved on - which is a lot faster than some car drivers do.

Diana

I like the ambiguity of 'certain slow-moving vehicles'.

It used to also say invalid carriages too and L drivers - I haven't seen one for years plenty of videos on YouTube showing tracked vehicles on Motorways though.

https://www.gov.uk/motorways-253-to-273/general-253-to-254

So agricultural vehicle - an armoured vehicle is not an agricultural vehicle though.

In the olden days there was a sign at the side of the slip road to a motorway which prohibited certain vehicles and a TRACKED VEHICLE was one of them. Has this restriction been removed or is it still illegal ?

If The weight limit is 7.5 tonnes then that is exactly what it is. It matters not whether the vehicle is a tractor, lorry, car, van, artic, armoured vehicle. If you believe that your vehicle is possibly exempt from a limit then the only safe was is to contact the police/local council and get it in writing - something they would be loathe to do in my opinion.

Likewise the speed limit for a tracked vehicle with rubber pads is 20MPH whereas for a tracked vehicle with no pads, just steel is 10MPH - not something I was told when I was taught to drive a tracked vehicle.

The advice I received if I wish to take my tracked vehicle onto the nearby motorway is confer with the local Police, since it is probably safer to use the motorway than to go on the local side roads.

Diana

If you go across any structure with a weight limit and your vehicle exceeds that limit and you damage a bridge for example you are almost certain to invalidate your insurance and have a bill which might make you bankrupt, for damage to the structure and also consequential loss from anyone inconvenienced by the damage.

Besides the actual weight has to be declared.

Diana

Afternoon all

 

I will be picking up a Shielder on Saturday and first job on the list is to get it registered. Has anyone put one of these on the road before? Is it the best plan to fill in a little as is possible? Or go the other way and save them having to ask for extra info?

 

Now, I have a V55/5 and was wondering what I should enter for Box 2 - Tax Class. Don't think I can go for Historic as it looks like it will be verified as about 1999. Next choice is Private HGV, don't mind spending the £165 on tax but we have a quite a few 7.5t weight limits around here and that would restrict where I could go. Any other ideas?

 

Any help is much appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Antony

Nitromors is now difficult to get hold of, not impossible but difficult. The safe alternative is next to useless on many occasions.

Neither will work on the epoxy based finish on many fairly recent vehicles, parts and equipment.

Diana

When we put our heavy plant through the RAF Bruggen paint bay for IRR painting, we stripped off all the old paint with Nitromors.

That included the Dozers, Tippers and Michigan Bucket loaders.

I hate to think how many barrels of the stuff we went through.

Buying an expensive low vibration needle scaler is a great idea if one has the money, then there's a compressor and the piping, an oiler etc, some of us cant justify the cost, but you should get anti-vibration gloves and definitely ear protectors.

Just started using a 2 pack primer from TA paints is absolutely BRILLIANT - even sticks to an aluminium pot on the spray gun and I cant get it off! great for ali and steel, 2nd coat with oxide then a topcoat.

It's not the same as 2 part topcoat auto paint is nothing like as dangerous and the same as the military originally used on their equipment.

Diana

Based on my experience with heavy paint and rust removal, my preference would be:

 

1. Wet blasting. Needs a wet blaster, massive (3 or 4 tool road compressor), and pressure fed helmet, so not easy. It gives the best control, quickest, and most satisfactory results.

 

2. Dry blasting. As above but less control, more mess, and harsher control and finish.

 

3. Needlegunning (or needlescaling). I wouldn't myself bother with a low quaility Machine Mart type toy, I'd get a professional quality low vibe tool if there's a lot to do. It is quicker, does a better job, and you're less likely to be crippled by vibration whitefinger. I use a Trelawney low vibe tool and have been very impressed. You will need a big compressor (not as big as for blasting though). See http://www.trelawnydirect.com/trelawny-vl303-low-vibration-needle-scaler.html

 

I avoid angle grinders with wire brushes or flaps since the burnished surface they tend to leave makes for poor paint adhesion.

The tool is described in the Diesel version repair manual. I think that someone has already suggested that you get these manuals. Its likely you will have to construct one from the drawing shown. There are also 3 pins that screw into the bolt holes holding the final drive, again locally made, that help guide the final drive from its fixing and prevent damage to the handbrake band. Also contained within that manual is the conversion process to convert a left hand drive to a right hand final drive.

All the manuals can be had from Greenmachine surplus. There is also conflict between the Petrol repair manual and the Diesel repair manual over the steering tiller adjustment. The problem with the steering tillers is of removing air trapped in the system which appears to be trapped in the two master cylinders, this again has been highlighted in threads here.

I found that by bleeding as best you can at the bango feed to the caliper in the floor, and then at the union passing through the front bulkhead and then tying back the tiller under pressure (one at a time) for a day or two much of the air is expelled or dissipated.

Others have tried and had success with various other methods.

Diana

It doesn't surprise me at all but I don't think I've ever seen one in restoration photos.

I'd be grateful for a picture of said tool, perhaps it's something worth fabricating.

Stainless, bronze, brass and copper all react with aluminium. The safest bet is plastic/nylon (yes you can get plastic nuts and bolts but their strength is about zero) or cadmium coated, Zinc and yellow, or zinc chromate or finally BZP.

Stainless reacts with BZP, and by the way Stainless nuts and bolts are weak compared to high tensile grade 8.8 nuts and bolts. Under no circumstance use stainless in load bearing structures unless it is specifically a special type of stainless.

Nylons washers under the glacis plate bolts help keep the water out.

And if you Tig weld Armour then it requires special rods and a very high amperage welder in many situations.

Diana

And a TIG welder as well but I didn't want to scare anyone without cause.

 

Well, I have a good stock of Helicoils on hand but am also considering electrochemical removal for steel bolts in Al as an option. I've considered buying time-serts which are much more costly than Helicoil but look really nice installed.

 

I wonder, is it worth considering bolts other than steel for things like fixing bins? Al, stainless, bronze,... I must get out my chemistry book and look at the potentials.

As with other military vehicles, the CUCV's used a 24-volt electrical system. It was actually a hybrid 12/24-volt system that used 24-volts under the hood, complete with dual 100 amp alternators, the mandatory NATO slave receptacle for jump starting any NATO vehicle, and hookups for military radios.^[6] The rest of the truck was 12-volt.

Explains why 1 battery maybe dead as opposed to two.

Diana

Yes this could be the problem. I have no idea how to disconnect the relay though. I'm a bit nervous of anything to do with batteries and electrical stuff! I need step by step instructions I'm afraid :undecided:

Did you charge the batteries?

Depending on where you got them, the quality and how they were kept they may not be charged. If you replaced like for like then and the original were fitted correctly then even if new they may still be discharged.

Diana

Thanks for your reply, and advice.

I think the batteries are connected up wrong but I'm not sure. Got 2 new batteries, one was dead the very next day!!

What on earth could cause this?

Don't know if I've got the right batteries, or if they are connected correctly, and I've got no idea myself and don't know anyone who's got any ideas...that's why I'm stuck!

Presuming that both batteries are connected in series then it would appear you have a battery problem.

You need to specify if it starts or not. Even then because a vehicle starts does not mean that the batteries or charging system are performing as they should, as some time after it may either not turn over or turns over sluggishly.

And batteries at the end of their life do "drain" as you put it or simply do not hold their charge owing to sulphation of the plates (lead acid types), caused by age and failure to keep a battery charged. A common problem in old vehicles.

Some gel batteries can be even worse, having a good terminal no load voltage, but zero or near zero when a load is applied.

Diana

You would think so!

damn batteries...one's dead, then the other one! Don't know what's happening. Engines turning over fast enough but one battery is draining.

No ones been able to get to the bottom of it yet.

And I'm losing the will to live!!

&af_placement_id=1&dv=981e1da7b016f952ef100817e6ac8119"]{floor jack: lifting final drives, they balance pretty well on their drain plugs.}

There is a tool for doing this that screws into the bolt hole above the final drive (plugged by a bolt)

Diana