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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. As Chris states the rear set of batteries (if fitted) feed the RJB (Radio Junction Box) which is to the left of the commanders cupola, there will still be power to the RJB even with no batteries but the engine has to be running..

    From the RJB  2 core  power cables are run individually to the radio sets , and either an IB2 or IB3. The 2 core cable is terminated in a 2 pin female connector at each radio set and IB3/2

    From the IB2 or IB3 a 12 core cable ring is run around the vehicle feeding into and out of the different Clansman boxes returning to the IB3 or 2.

    As stated elsewhere no Clansman radio set is needed, nor needs to be fitted.to operate the intercom, The yellow fronted (ANR) boxes are the best option, but then the correct ANR headset needs to be used with the ANR system.

    There are some weird interactions between between the rear batteries and the vehicle if the rear batteries are not kept charged, If I remember correctly this is referred to elsewhere on the site, I've also noticed it too.


    Diana

  2. Some info came my way about a batch of CVRT wheels that the MOD bought.
    The only way to put rubber on a CVRT wheel, or other armoured tracked vehicle wheels is vulcanising.

    It would seem some bright spark decided they would press the tyres on the wheel of a batch the MOD bought from them, not long after these tyres started dropping off.
    I wouldn't be  a bit surprised if some of these wheels were appearing here and there.
    Diana

  3. The speed limiter has a fuse, on Belgian CVRT the fuse holder is separate to and close by the ignition coil. On British CVRT it's usually cunningly under one of the cable inlets to the ignition coil.
    Unscrew the cable inlet cover and pull the fuse thus disabling the limiter, which often these days can be faulty.
    Diana

  4. 1 hour ago, Manylandrovers said:

    I’d love to know what spanner was used to get at those two nuts...a very short one..

     

    1 hour ago, Manylandrovers said:

    Nightmare to get off the manifold....!!

    Stubbys spanners and easy peasy with the engine cover lifted.

  5. I could feel it on one of the idler wheels not the other, even with a road wheel lifted it wasn't that apparent, only when I took  the wheels off and turned the hub was it clear there was excess drag.
    It's caused by years old oil past its days, or in the case of the idler hub goodness knows what lubricant because it wasn't oil.

     

  6. The friction in the hubs may not be apparent until the road/idler wheels are removed, it's not just the oil has thickened, it appears either the wrong lubricant has been added, or the oil has degraded (after years).
    There is no maintenance schedule to change the oil in the hubs, hence it probably never gets changed.
    I tried the oil change and it didn't work.
    I had to strip and washout the hub bearings, refit them  and refill to cure the excess friction.

  7. After a run don't just switch the engine off, let it idle for a while, it's the hottest running engine I've ever encountered.

    Make sure the plate on the bottom of the gearbox compartment is fitted.

    It seems on every wheel of mine the bearings need a washout, as they are way too stiff, since the oil has gone thick.  12 tight bearing sets add a lot of friction and increased fuel consumption as well as engine heat,

    (12 includes the idlers)
    Diana

  8. 2 hours ago, SirLanceUK said:

    Well after going across to my Spartan for lots of other things and despite getting distracted by various people I have actuallty found the wiring loom for the cupola and sure enough there is a plug in the right position to plug in to the 3 pin socket on the periscope, and now thanks to Andy we know what that plug might be used for other than just a place where lots of wires get joined together.

    Another step forward.

     

    The heater.demister is an element around the sight eyepiece,  (which gets pretty hot)
    The plug to the right is the connection for the oft not seen commanders night sight.
    Diana

  9. Instead of poking around in the engine and removing the front armour  you may be able to fit a ballast resistor in the drivers instrument panel, across the terminals of the starter button that shorts the ballast resistor out.- - needs investigating?
    Somewhere on here I posted a connection diagram of the DIP as the one from Green Machine Surplus has some mistakes.

    Diana

    • Thanks 1
  10. 1 hour ago, radiomike7 said:

    Care to clarify, that sounds like you used E15 petrol not E5 or have I missed something?

    Asda don't sell E15   my way, perhaps they do with you?  so yes  it's E5. And yes 600ml in 1200ml out, anyone want to try getting more than 600ml out be my guest.

  11. Recently did a little experiment on E5 petrol, added 600ml of water to 4 litres of petrol, I extracted the 600ml of water out and another 600ml of Ethanol.

    It can be got out just takes a lot of effort. Have yet to find out the effect on the engine.

    Diana

  12. 4 minutes ago, Alex2909 said:

    Hiya, thanks very much for the tip! As an (extremely!) new cvrt owner, could you give me some guidance on where physically it is in the engine bay? 

    On the front of the engine against the drivers firewall (which you may have to remove along with the drivers seat)

     

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