Diana and Jackie

Greenmachine surplus currently have shells for sale

Diana

Anyone know any sources for FV headlight parts - the bowl, rim, ring, bezel, gasket etc?

For months now I have watched adverts appearing on ebay, from persons who should know better, adverting spares for certain vehicles when they clearly are not for those vehicles.

ie.. 434, CVRT etc..

This is blatant misrepresentation i.e. FRAUD, when those parts never were fitted to such vehicles as is claimed. All sorts of tactics are used to sell to the unwary without any scruples whatsoever, its time this practice was made public on here in the hope that those people who may not know better do not fall into the trap of buying a part which is of no use to them whatsoever and do their research before parting with hard earned cash.

Diana

All the same - right hand thread

Diana

Hello

Are the wheel rim locking nuts left and or right hand thread directional? Or are they all the same?

 

For example; the wheel lugs on my WC51 were left & right handed threads and the lug nuts themselves were marked "left" or "right".

 

Regards,

Matt

Hi.. I have the opportunity to obtain some gearbox brake bands for my CVRT. Has anyone changed the bands and if so how easy or otherwise is it to undertake?

Mine may not need changing at all but I am interested to know.

Diana

The lighting and wiring circuits are shown at : http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/electrical_equipment.htm

The issue of poor earths, which generally occur in the light towers has been raised already, the left front/rear indicator (or turn lights) and right front/rear are wired in parallel (connected together) respectively. The flasher will not work unless both bulbs on the left or right hand side are connected, neither will the flasher relay flash if a bulb is blown on that side which is supposed to flash.

The correct flasher relay requires around 42 watts to work properly - 2 x 21watt 24 volt bulbs.

At a later stage a hazard warning switch was introduced.

Diana

What part of the UK is this then ? I will gladly move there as its news to me!

Diana

We don't get gales in the UK, its more or less summer all the time unlike Canada, I can go out in a T shirt every day of the year. As for damage to MVs from the stakes many of our club members vehicles are so bashed and scratched that you would not notice the difference!

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?46022-Van-Den-Plas-Aluminum-RB60

Diana

Hi James,

Yes frame arrived OK - some welds cracked but can easily get fixed.

If fouled plugs is the problem you may have to pull them a few times until the cylinder bores are clear.

Thanks

Diana

Thanks everyone, will pull the plugs clean and inspect, would have quickly done it on Monday but the top of the head is covered with mud/dust/general farmyard rubbish that seems to get everywhere so didn't want to risk stuff falling into the bores without a quick hoover first.

 

Diana,

I take it the radio frame arrived ok by the way?

 

James

If you are trying to start an engine that has been preserved for storage you will probably find the plugs oiled up with preservative.

Pull the plugs and check they are dry, at the same time you can check for a spark

Diana

Andrew.. Diana is not a chap!

Diana

Hi chaps, thanks. Fuel is definitely filling the float chamber, but not sure where it is then going to. The carb looks in very good nick, the engine had done very few miles since its rebuild. I think I might need to have a look at the pumps on each side, and finally, looking down the choke Venturi, I assume the choke is off with the small butterfly flap open? This suggests to me that the choke rod has to be pushed on rather than pulled on?

Regards

Andrew

The carburettor on the J60 is fundamentally the same as that on a Daimler Ferret, albeit a slightly larger version with a different design for the altitude compensation.

If you look on the Daimler Ferret website there should be enough info there to determine how the carburetor works and how to strip it.

Problems arise from dirt in the jets and body as well as two internal gauze filters, Air Leaks through worn shafts, faulty seals and gaskets and stiff or punctured diaphragms caused be old age as well as incorrect idling and mixture adjustment.

Its also possible that the accelerator pump linkage is seized.

Diana

Dear All, if I may high jack this old thread. In getting my j60 back on the road following a broken exhaust valve ( and piston), I remember having a problem trying to start it. It only coughed when I poured a little of petrol down the throats, so I suspect a blocked jet. Being a solex (non Marcus) I'm assuming that with the float chambers full, if you open the throttle you should also get a jet of petrol squirted into the throat, like a landrovers carb does. Am I right? If the main jet is blocked could someone point out which one it is? I have no manuals. Grateful for some help, I'm still after 2 Pistons (std size) as none of the businesses seem willing to sell anything less than a full set.

regard

Andrew

Carefully remove the front of the drivers instrument panel, check there's 24v at the starter button, when pressed it feeds 24v out to the stater motor and 24v to bypass the ignition circuit dropper resistor.

As Tim says the wiring diagram maybe wrong (quite dangerously wrong)

Diana.

Thanks Tim.

 

So I'm finally ready to try and start my Spartan for the first time, filled with oil and a new pair of batteries etc. Turned the main isolator switch one and the dash lights come on, horn, indicators etc all work.

 

Pressed the starter switch and absolutely nothing, not even a click from the relay etc. Gearbox is in neutral so don't think the interlock is an issue.

 

Any advice on obvious things to check first - electrickery is not my favourite subject!

 

James

Any possibility some of the track pins are seized in their metal sleeves or dead bushes where the bush is rotating in the link?

Diana

Aide Memoire

51

51.1 Track on vehicle correctly tensioned

51.1.1 Pitch - must not exceed 1187.5 mm (46.75 ins) over 10 links *

51.1.2 Pins- must be concentric with all five lugs

51.1.3 Bush Walking - pin end must protrude between 8 and 22mm from end of lug

51.1.4 Cracked castings - check within condemnation limits

51.1.5 Rubber Pads - checked for excessive wear or damage

*This measurement should be made on that part of the track under the roadwheels with the vehicle standing on level ground

extract from AESP 2350-T-220-522

Diana

This is not at all the same as the tachometer fitted to the Ferret, which has a mechanical tachometer.

This tachometer is an impulse type inductive pickup which measures the pulses as the ignition coil is fired. Remove the brass knurled nut and clean all the surfaces, refit ensuring the knurled nut is tight. Ensure there is 24volts at the instrument terminal in addition.

If that fails the fault is within the instrument. The front of the instrument has a rubber ring that fits between it and the panel and it is probable that this has "stuck" holding the panel and instrument together.

It goes without saying that the engine should run to measure its speed.

Diana

I need to remove the tachometer in my Fox armored car for cleaning and calibration since the needle is sticking. I've pulled the instrument panel and removed what I thought were the two retaining clips on the back of the tachometer housing but I cannot get the tach to come forward through the panel. The mounting system appear similar to that of many other 1960's and 1970's vehicles I've worked on. I've attached a photo showing the rear of the instrument panel.

 

The silver looking "can" is the tach housing and note the two silver threaded rods which have already had the nuts and retaining clips removed. While not shown in the photo, I have removed all of the screws on the back of the tach housing and they are not the cause of the mechanism not coming out of the housing.

 

I suspect the tach on a Ferret is similar, has anyone any suggestions on how to remove?

Yes pull the wires back one by one. Heat helps if you cannot undo the fittings, as stated already copious amounts of a lubricant such as silicon spray will help release the wires if stuck as well as in unscrewing the fittings.

Do not attempt to pull them through the fitting where it goes through the body. They will most likely get stuck in the 90 degree bend, Undo the fitting (on the outside of the vehicle) that goes into the bodywork fitting and pull them back to there.

Diana

I guess I am lucky in the sense that the wiring conduit and connections seem alright. So the wires have to be disconnected at their end point and pulled back through the conduit?

The existing conduit will be in general unusable, it consists of a copper braid over a galvanised flexible conduit. The conduit rusts and seizes trapping the wiring inside it.

With care after disconnecting the wiring at the light fittings and applying copious amounts of releasing fluid on all fittings and down the conduit the wiring can be recovered after undoing the fittings gradually crack the existing conduit, it helps to use a tube cutter, attacking it bit by bit and feed it off the wiring. The end fittings would have been brass, keep these as they can be reused. Modern fittings will often be Zinc coated steel which is as rubbish as the existing conduit was.

If the wiring is damaged it can be pieced out by soldering and insulated with shrinkdown sleeve will will fit within the new conduit.

Details on how to make the new and improved conduit are at :

http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/useful_info.htm

Diana

I am finally starting the removal of the fenders and boxes on my ferret - The question is how does one disconnect the wiring from the junction box on the body for the turn signals, headlight and smoke discharger? Thanks

Vince only quoting from training notes...

Diana

Good luck keeping to those figures in a real life road situation! Although designed for "hot shifting", it may be beneficial to clutch and gearbox life to come of the throttle between up-changes (I practice this). I find I can keep an eye on the tacho by glancing at it (but then I am a shortie). Easier to see than the speedo.

Having investigated there are a number of problems with the gearbox, which are self inflicted.

Don't start off in 3rd gear! use 1st. Starting in 3rd causes clutch wear. and brake band wear on the 3rd gear brake band.

I eventually found the change up and down speed off instructors notes for a PETROL engine.

Change up is 2000 RPM and down is 500RPM - but of course watching the tacho is another matter!

Diana

Sounds about right. If the seals are shot the clutch pads will be contaminated and would normally be replaced while you have the clutch apart for the seals. If the pads are not too bad you may be able to get away without changing them. Another tip on clutch wear. When a new clutch is fitted new a C clip was also fitted. This C clip joined both ends of the gater spring to allow for some adjustment once the clutch started slipping i.e. if the C clip is fitted it could be removed once you notice clutch slip which will then give you additional life on the same clutch.

Thank you Chris,

There are Major differences between the Belgian vehcile and the British one, some serious mods will be needed.

Diana

Hi Chris,

Thanks foe prompt reply.

Dont have a triangular radio tray as the Spartan is Belgian. They were never fitted with Clansman . If you have some pics that would be most helpful.

Diana

TUAAM goes on the roof near the antenna bases just inside the back door. ARFAT goes on the triangular radio tray.

Hi,

Has anyone got a picture or schematic for the positions of the Clansman ARFAT and TUUAM boxes in a CVRT Spartan? I have the positions of the intercom systems and radios but not the Clansman 353 radio ancillaries.

Thanks

Diana

Determine the axle weight, determine the max speed at which the vehicle is likely to travel.

From tyre manufacturers data determine the max axle load per PAIR of tyres - it's normally given per pair (and not per tyre) so be aware of that - and the maximum speed of the chosen tyres.

If the tyre is within safety limits then check with the tyre manufacturer what the tyre pressure should be against axle load and recheck if the tyre is still within limits.

If the speed and weight go up then the load ability of a tyre decreases. Its different for every tyre manufacture.

I believe there is a fitting problem with the beads of US tyres on Ferret rims so checkout this forum.

Diana

Diana. Thanks for the reply. I was considering some trak grips from Specialty Tire in the U.S.A. that are 10 ply with a maximum single tyre load rating 2965 lbs at a 60 psi cold inflation pressure. They seem adequate but same supplier also carries a 14 ply tire with a single tyre load rating of 4275 lbs. I believe that I read the posts where you recommended and or used the 16 ply tyres and would like to know what the single tyre load rating is on those tyres so that I can consider/compare to the tyres from Specialty Tire.

Regards, Terry.

This has recently come up.

16 PLY rating or greater is the only safe tyre ply, This is because of the weight (especially at the rear) and the possible top speed of the vehicle.

If not using the run flat inserts tyre flaps or tyre bands should be used.

Diana

Hello All. A few questions on Ferret tyres. For those of you who have replaced your Ferret tyres with recent manufactured bar grip tyres, did you or are you able to reinstall the original runflat inserts. Are the bar grip tyres 8ply or greater? What is the number of ply's or ply rating on original Dunlop Trak Grips used on Ferrets?

 

Regards, Terry.

Broken spring maybe .. THE BIG SPRING? caused by leaving in neutral gear

Diana