Diana and Jackie

I agree on that - a very quick method, built in at that, of finding out where your faults are. At least Joseph Lucas had a sense of humor.

It can be very confusing to the newcomer who can see the smoke, but doesn't know where to look next or how to get it back into the wiring.

No you really all have the wrong idea about dear old Lucas. He was trying to help! After all you can't see electricty, so his system allows you to trace the fault by visible menas if you don't have a volt meter.

 

Land Rovers solution was to mark the switches in Braille.

Its a well known fact that if you fit a Lucas part to an inferior product (such as the wiring in an American Car) then there will be copious amounts of smoke. This is because American Cars are used to traveling on the wrong (right) side of the road resulting in the electricity being confused over which direction it should go.

The solution is simple. Don't fit superior Lucas parts to inferior American products.

QUOTE=Degsy;454060]I am watching an American car programme on the TV and flicking on to here when the adverts come on, when I flicked back to TV after reading this post the first thing that came on was a Cadillac with burnt out wiring:rofl:

Glass houses and stones come to mind.

If you speak to TA Paints they will send you some samples to get a near match.

I've found their paint (enamel) to be excellent, it sprays without thinning. I have 5 litres of another make, which shall remain nameless and is horrible to use, no matter how much thinning I do.

Diana

Hi all, I've done a quick search of the forum, in case the question has been answered, and even though it probably has, I cannot find it.

In short, I have a 67 Reo whistler, painted currently in what I would guess, is period olive drab.

It's nothing like our UK OD, and has a tinge of brown to it.

I would imagine that it is correct for the vietnam period, but a google search doesn't lead to any UK based suppliers.

Could someone be so kind as to tell me what it actually is called, and who would most likely supply it?

 

Kind regards,

Si[ATTACH=CONFIG]109102[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]109103[/ATTACH]

Thats top secret :-)

Are you speaking from personal experience?

This explains why Lucas electrical parts found in many older military vehicles have a mind of their own:-

http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html

Diana

You most definitely need a wring diagram and if possible circuit description. It would seem that the starter is permanently energised, which is why, in all likelihood the the main wiring has burnt out. Disconnect the starter main wiring and then, after replacing all the burnt out wiring and charging the batteries see if everything is normal.

It is usual to have a wire from a starter button/starter switch that energises a solenoid, either remote from the starter or built into the starter itself, that appears to be either permanently energised OR its contacts are short circuit.

Be aware that the main power cables to the starter are normally, when the main isolator switch is on, at full battery voltage and hence current, with no fuse. A short circuit here may even cause the batteries to explode, apart from cooking the wiring as you have discovered.

Diana

Hi all

I went to slave start my 432 2/1 today the same as every other time the bats are low . I put the slave lead on as per usual and started her up no dramas . I then noticed the lights dim and the amp gauge go to full . I tried to turn it off with no luck . Hit emergency stop and she stopped . What I did hear is the starter still running hence the high amp reading .

I put some fresh batteries in and turned the master on and everything was normal then went to start it and the starter stayed on again .same thing Killed the motor and started to have a look

found the earth lead to the main isolator box melted and cut

the lead that travels form main isolator box to dis box had one lead burnt to a crisp.

I also found that if I bridge the slave leads she will crank over with the master on

 

 

I don't know where to start as I have no electrical diagrams

Any help would be great

Cheers

Adrian

Make your own mind up is what I am saying. And put a copyright watermark on any photo you post.

so I guess you are saying con man or am I reading this wrong best way to say something is to come out with it hate people who suggest things and say nothing

Whatever you would like to think !........isn't it and what are you saying?

And what you saying

Whilst browsing the web I discovered a website http://www.eurooldtimers.com The owner of this site is based in CZ (part of the EU).

As I was browsing through the pictures of various vehicles I discovered that there were compilations of photo's from numerous sources, Withams being one, and Milweb being another (several private sellers advert photos being used) with the name of the website stamped across them as though they were the copyright of the website owner of eurooldtimers.com, whose details can easily be found using whois, including his phone number and e-mail address.

The copyright legislation in The EU is quite clear and can be found at:

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?qid=1442701487085&uri=URISERV:l26053

Diana

Presuming its capacitor start - which it usually is for an AC single phase 3HP electric motor have you had the capacitor checked?

Equally there was on older motors a centrifugal switch at the rear of the motor which can stick or has burnt contacts.

Diana

Hoping to tap into the vast knowledge on here. The single phase Brooks 3hp electric motor on our compressor has overheated and presumably requires rewinding but it appears that it would be cheaper to replace it with a new and much more modern motor. Modern motors are much smaller and lighter than the old Brook motor but with some modification to the mountings a modern one could be fitted. Any expert opinion and advice would be very welcome. Incidentally I have enquired for rewinding costs and it appears that a new motor of the same power etc albeit a much lighter build would be the cheapest but would it be the best option?

On this very same subject is it worth converting from the old filter (same as the engine filter) to the newer version with pressure switch? which uses a different filter container and filter.

Diana

There are different gearbox filters. Is yours the same as the engine oil filer, or different?

That is normal - just keep jacking on the suspension arm, BUT do not place your fingers in a position that they get chopped off should the jack fail.

You will need to wiggle the stops in, the hardest part is getting the nut on the back stud of the bump stop. I used nylocs as its simpler than a washer, spring washer and a nut.

Diana

These pics are great, thanks so much! I have 1 wheel station back together!

 

Now to figure out how to get the bump stops back in. The hull is lifting before the 2 arms open enough to slide it in between...

item 230885775666 or anything similar even 252043098187

Diana

I'm the one doing the work on it, Skip was helping locate one.

 

The problem is the Ferret started popping the 30 amp relay breaker.

 

After tracing the AUX POS wire to the front control panel I thought the problem was there, then found out if I put

light switch in convoy or any position to the right the breaker would hold.

 

So that tells me brake lights disable. Pull POS wire from brake light relay and all was good.

 

It looks like the contacts welded together.

 

I read that these are on ebay? Ours was in pretty bad shape can't read number anyone have a number for it?

 

Thanks all. James

Plenty on ebay.com -not cheap but not cheap here in The UK either.

Diana

A friend needs one his is bad.

Generally can be found on ebay.

Diana

Does anyone know where I can get a new break relay switch? [ATTACH=CONFIG]106921[/ATTACH]

Yuk what a mess :-) a typical Ferret. So far I cannot see what is wrong, but if I have time I will take a photo of mine - unless someone beats me to it ! - and you can compare. The Rubber bump stop needs replacing. The big weakness on a Ferret is the suspension spring support, which can seize solid to the shaft and over which fits a sleeve interposed between the support and shaft. The small arm which holds the support parallel to the road then comes under tremendous force and its bearing pins wear out.

The rubber O rings are a free fit between the body bracket and suspension A frame, they are not compressed by anything, but are tight in enough in themselves to grip between the joint. Unless off roading or going through deep water they are not needed provided everything is well greased.

This is the front so usually the rear suspension is in a worse mess . Make sure that grease comes out of all the joints, if the suspension creaks when going overa kerb then you have seized pivots somewhere. A pressure grease gun is best for greasing the pivots.

If you cannot see grease coming out of the joints its a blowlamp job and grease gun- forget the hit it with a hammer tool which is supposed to overcome seized joints as it doesn't work - not for me anyway.

Diana

You are being extremely disingenuous using a phrase like " I am sure that you are all law abiding people" and the context in which you said it. There are many helpful people on here as in all walks of life.

A brush with the public and the law is always helpful in discovering that a lot of what people have been saying by means of being helpful maybe a hard way of discovering the truth.

If you have bought a vehicle, which is over the maximum legally permitted width, now find yourself trying to avoid the consequences of that, which is well nigh impossible then so be it!

Diana

You are such a positive bunch of souls! As I have said we all know the rules and I fully understand it is down to me. I am sure that you are all law abiding people who have never wandered a few MPH over the speed limit etc, so I guess I can't argue with you.

 

Now, down to the Shielder with the tape measure.

 

Antony

Type 307 can be used to weld steel armour to other dissimilar metals.

Available in TIG filler, MIG Wire and MMA (Stick) electrode from

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/netmak?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 in Germany

Diana

The rubber O ring fits between the fixed and moving joint in order to prevent the ingress of water. They often perish and fall apart.

Diana

I am trying to rebuild a Ferret that was taken apart by the previous owner. I am going to need lots of help

 

Todays question is about the suspension pins. Could someone tell me the order of parts at each pin station on the suspension? I have the manuals but the pics are just not clear enough.

 

So the pin goes into the bracket on the hull. When it exits, whats between it and the a-arm? I have o-rings and these really odd looking washers. The washers are square with a raised round area. Are these shims? If so, which side of the arm buhing to they go on? I cant fit seem to fit one on either side. Only on one side leaves an oring to get smashed on the other. Where do the orings fit in here? Help! Close pics of suspension of an assembled Ferret would be very helpful as well.

 

Thanks!

Makes an ideal target for a sniper ! - doubt its army originated

Diana

Most FV430s have this as well, so not bling.

 

Andy

I have just taxed my Ferret online without going to the Post Office, no declaration on a V112G needed.

This is a first and a positive step in the right direction.

Diana

CO2 Extinguishers are dangerous in confined spaces - asphyxiating.

BCF are now banned (in everyday use apart from aircraft and military)

Diana

Finally I have found some old style CO2 extinguishers approximating to the U.S. WW2 pattern - these are 6" diameter which are a perfect fit for the Diamond T 969 etc running board brackets. Overall height over top of lever is 27 1/2".

 

The added advantage of these 5kg refurbished units is that they are useable.

 

What I am looking for now is a couple of the larger size - 6 3/4" diameter (see 3rd pic) - if anyone can help please let me know!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106662[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]106661[/ATTACH]

 

Larger type - can anyone help?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106663[/ATTACH]

There is a relay hidden in a cover behind the hazard pull switch and integral with the switch, basically put its nasty Hella rubbish, the fault is either a burnt out relay coil, a dirty relay contact, or a wire has dropped off.

Pulling the switch initiates the flashers on one side of the vehicle and connects the relay coil so as to pulse from the flasher, which is a bimetallic type, the circuit to the opposing flasher is then switched via the relay contacts. All very primitive and 1950's Ferret like.

Diana

Help Requested,

1. The fuel gauge on my MK 1 ferret does not work.

2. The emergency flashers for the left side of the vehicle do not flash. The bulbs are good and turn signals work fine.

3. The trip meter on the speedo does not want to reset.

 

I am new to ferrets so any diagrams if possible with the troubleshooting suggestions will be appreciated to make some sense of the spaghetti bowl of the dash wiring.

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

John

Some parts of the diesel manuals refer to servicing of parts, and adjustments common to the petrol versions and are extremely useful.

Diana

This may be stating the obvious, but make sure you get the right one for the vehicle. There are petrol and (newer) diesel variants of the CVR(T), and I'd imagine the manuals are different. Scorpion will be covered in older texts.