tankdiver

Hi Robin I have a couple of Ferrets its is a mk 2 with the rotating turret although it was a mk i without the turret and I am deciding which one to go for but if you have both I would be interested thanks Laurence

I need a data plate for a Daimler Ferret at a reasonable price

easiest way is to replace with an electric pump . I fitted two on separate circuits and put in a separate kill switch on both of them. no more fuel filling the sump. CVRT 24v will do or you can fit a 12v using one battery there is plenty on ebay. I took the engine out to clean and put a blanking plate were the pump was

I will have a look I have poles and connectors Salisbury regards Laurence

Hi Richard when the mechanical pump is on form it works fine . problems occur as the cam that drives it wears or the diaphragm is torn due to bad / incorrect fitting or perished diaphragm. Smell your dip stick does it smell of petrol. I am with the guy,s get an electric pump . I fit two , one as a back up. I put the switches in obscure places they act as an ant- theft device. Starting is great . Its better than pumping petrol oil around and having to replace big and main ends not to mention cams , bearings ,push rods and oil passing past oil seals. regards Laurence

Hi Im I am about to put one on ebayregards Laurence

I have taken the tank out on all the ferrets I have had 5 in total. the worst one had a tar like gunge all the way up the pipes and took a lot of time and air pressure to unblock it. I thought it may only have about a couple of gallons in it. It was a mad rush to find more cans it finished up with 2.5 jerrycans and tons all over me and the floor.It really irritated the skin like burning.The tank will go through the turret and is not that heavy but needs a little jiggling.once out a good clean and soak with thinners hot soapy water then jet wash final petrol wash. Laurence

all now sold Laurence

Hi It appears that I have THREE of These with my spare parts. regards Laurence .

Hi Jim I will have a look in one or two of my parts boxes Laurence

PART 3 When I came to Fit the oil seal from my parts I noticed the seal was correct on the outside diameter but the internal diameter for the shaft was two large. The dealer that had supplied me replaced them F.O.C. as they had been supplied with the incorrect seals The planet, sun and annulus holder being fitted. The retaining bolts had all the locking devices, but had signs of lock tight sealer on the threads so this was cleaned off and a small amount applied showing the small roller bearing retaining washer When building up the hubs rotate the hub by hand ensuring nothing has jammed . Using a flexible sealing compound on the hub New allen bolts with sealant on threads

PART 3 shows plannets removed remove washer Planet carrier Using leavers to remove hub By applying even pressure it should come off BUT.... Now using a large puller using WD 40 to help the inner bearing to come off but another puller was required .The shaft needed cleaning of to allow the bearings to slide on and off easily

PART 2 Using 5/16 unf bolt remove plate Always count needle rollers when removing and fitting Shows SUN, PLANETS and ANNULUS. All part kept together. Shows the taper roller bearings these should easily be removed. on this Ferret they were extremely hard to remove. If you are unable to remove a large puller is required.

PART 1. Ferret hubs are not for the faint hearted and some skill is needed to do them! the allen bolt must have a good fitting key On this hub I found a stay piece of gasket which if it had found its way into the eppicyclic gears it would have destroyed them Undo the tab washer and large nut undo the nuts holding the outer bearing then using a 5/16 unf bolt draw it off [ spanners shown in the next picture] Note the position of this gasket. Ensure all the needle rollers are counted there should be 24 for each planet gear whenever it was built on this Ferret one of the planets had only 23 the planet and carrier was changed and a new set fitted Place all parts on a clean surface and replace any damaged items

I agree a electric pump is better than the mechanical pump .The vehicle starts straight away on the first flick on the starter. Mechanical pumps can leak fuel into the oil due to a torn diaphragm caused with bad fitment or rot.

Hi Jim I believe I have a NOS annulus planet s and sun gear in one of my parts bins If you are interested P M me .I will be away for a couple of weeks after Friday. regards Laurence

Hi Richard I believe I have a couple of complete assemblies ie annulus planets and sun gear in a spares bin in the workshop .I believe they are NOS .PM me if you are interested and I will have a rummage. Laurence

Hi I just bought a LH side full unit and only used the cylinder the cable is new .original cost inc P+P was £140 If you are interested make me an offer.I will be travelling up north in about 10 days. regards.

Hi Matt I had a post on the 20/10/16 FERRET BRAKES and posted several pictures. The problem was an air lock in the pipes after air ingress through the new flexible pipes nuts .Originally i could not get a decent hand brake so I investigated and finished doing a complete overhaul. I now have two champs + two ferrets . One is running and I am sorting out the teething problems possible reg no is 00CC56 1959. The other is coming to the end of a restoration possible army reg 01CA71. All external bin I remade last year and fitted new internal boxes. I have done a full overhaul of all brakes and all pipe replaced , an easy job compared with the running one. The engine has only done 3000 miles but I replaced all of the ignition leads new distributor and an electric pump as the diaphragm on the mechanical pump was leaking into the engine oil .Once the internal parts are put back its a paint job in the spring . I will post pictures of both of the in the spring regards Laurence.

Wow when dealing with pressures of over a 1000 psi it reminds me of an idiot that throwing a used diving bottle into his boat with the result in the tap breaking and going through his boat and finishing up on the beach 700 meters away. His boat was nearly sunk and the bottle just missed some sunbathers his responce was stupid laughter.As an ex diver Be very careful when dealing with compressed a gas and use the high pressure hose 3000psi to 5000psi when decanting from a cylinder. laurence

Finally the war on these brakes is over till the next conflict[Ferret Brakes] After fighting the worst set of brake problems on a ferret that I have encountered its now sorted The hand brake is now balanced and the worst bleeding brakes are working well. The worst problem was getting it to bleed . After normal and abnormal bleeding I forced fluid down the pipes and found the new front pipes were not sealing on the pipe flange as the female nut was 1/16 to long and it was tightening on the Tub. After taking off a small amount off the nut and after more and more bleeding over several days . I finally got a 1" brake travel so I used brake clamps on all the flexible pipes and achieved a hard pedal. Now I am making progress ,with my daughter helping I released each clamp to locate the air in the system. One brake was bled and fully adjusted [brakes binding till bled then released] this finally sorted the last of the air in the system. GREAT PEDAL NOW The problem with the pedal brackets breaking suddenly during this process has made me check the other ferret for fatigue in the alloy brackets as if it failed under braking there is no foot brakes. This is a concern so check your ferret

Thanks Clive I will get some . I found a new tool After trying bleeding the brakes with no fluid coming out I pushed fluid throgh the rear pipe with a plastic bottle filled with brake fluid and found the air leakon the front flexible hose.The problem was the female pipe was tightening onto the tub instead of the pipe flange as the nut was just to long by 1/16" .This I ground off and some progress was made but it is still being a to pain to get a good pedal. More examination shows the master cylinder has a small leak off the secondary seal so I will replace one step forward ///// Laurence

I think this ferret is winning the battle at present but it will not win the war After doing all the cylinders flexible brake pipes and master cylinder rubbers It would not bleed . Today I have rechecked all the pipes and found that the front flexible female nut was slightly to long, causing it to tighten on the tub rather than the pipe connection. I only found this out by doing things different with the bleeding after several attempts with normal bleeding. As the fluid would not come down the pipes due to these pipes causing an air leak, I forced fluid into the metal pipes with a small plastic bottle ,as I pushed the fluid into the pipes I noticed fluid escaping on one of the front pipes.Looking at it very closely it was tightened against the tub as the female nut was a little to long. After removing 1/16" off the nut it allowed enough clearance to grip onto the brake flange/ male pipe end Once this air leak was sorted fluid was now able to be bled. Thinking I am making progress I noticed a small leak around the M/C and I checked pipes and copper washers but it was coming from the secondary seal on the M/C ,Well re- sleeve the M/C is now required. Pity it looked really good when I re-rubbered them

more photos When I started to do the master cylinder I undid the dust cover and it was full of rusty water . My initial thought was it will need a resleave but was amazed that the cylinder was great and rubbers would be OK . I always lubricate with rubberized grease or Brake fluid and will always flush the system with brake fluid as any other fluid will make the rubbers to rot and fail , even in the past when lockheed and girling fluid mixed would cause the seals to fail. Brake fluids are much better today and usually mix . I have now come to the end of my old stock of rubberized grease and have not seen any in the motor factor any one use this type of grease today? With the bleeding of the brakes I should have done one side at a time and bled as I went on, instead of allowing so much air into the system. My helper my daughter had to go home but we will give it another try tomorrow. I will try some other method of bleeding to see if the fluid starts to move. So far I rechecked the master cylinders airbleed ,main seals and secondary seals by removing the M/C, then bled the master cylinder by undoing the pipe as well as various bleeding techniques I have done over the years. To think I have used this vehicle for 20 miles with these brakes that were supposed to have been done. Ferrets are never boring. Laurence