paulob1

clean them out with chain or by blasting gently, or by simple hand rubbing if you can get your hand in...once cleaned dry thoroughly then spray with hammerite rust and one coat paint, works a treat and a darn site cheaper than any of the other sealant options...I use it on all my trucks and never have a problem once done. Biggest issue is getting into some of the trucks...always do it on a warm day, or ina warm room, the spray will atomise inside the tank and stick to all surfaces...ideally you want it to cover all over so turn the tank regularly, spray and turn, spray and turn...a full can is more than enough to do a 45 gallon tank...

http://www.kwik-fit.com/tyre-age.asp

 

I can't find right now but there is a guideline from one of the major manufacturers of 10 years for tyres in regular use and 6 years for unused or occasionally used tyres as stated here

 

http://www.tonyblundell.co.uk/tyre-care.html

yes we know old tyres fail, but take my zil 131 tyres look like the originals from when she was built, 1968, they have a few cracks...but they still run at 65 mph on the road and they still inflate and deflate. So I am sure if i keep going one of them will fail eventually, but 6 years is daft for a military tyre...

now I am not advocating not changing your tyres regularly, i have 33 military wheeled vehicles all of 6 8 or 10 tyre configuration so assuming best price of 100 per tyre, I would need to spend 25,000 pounds every 6 years on new tyres,some how i think not...

on a completely differetn note, the tyres on trailers suffer a great deal more than the tyres on vehicles generally and I would always recommend that these are changed regularly...when one goes it is generally loaded, so when the first one goes if you dont notice quickly enough you will lose a second, then a third then a fourth and so on...all in very quick succession.

just noticed the plug caps, what plugs are you running in the old girl...

ah okay, sounds like it will be easier to run a mini silent generator for about 3 kva....

Now you're showing off... :-D :coffee:

yes am going to put them into a small cold war museum, hopefully sometime next year...

Cheers mate for having a look today ,ours is not a full turn ! the tyres are not touching anywhere under the body either ..........

just under two turns on mine lock to lock, my steering colum seizes when she has been left for a while...needs a bit of oil I suspect, will have to get that sorted. mind you she started today before I pressed the button, well nearly...it was instant firing, before my thumb was off the buitton she wsa running...fantastic machine...need to get my doors all done now...and have her cosy warm for some winter use

Update

ural 375 d Box

Ural 375D flat bed

ural 375d

Star 660 x 2

Zil 131 ... Wrecker with front winch,

Zil 131 flat bed getting a front winch fitted..but may go diesel..body work in hand

Zil 131 crane 4 ton rear winch and tipper body,

Zil 131 logging zil, front winch, with rear mounted botex crane and grab plus donkey engine and hydrauluc pump...

Diesel Zil 131...new engine fitted, running a treat...

Zil 131 Decon getting Diesel GM 6.2 as a trial install with auto box...

Zil with rear Crane, driven from Sheffield lovely.

Zil 131 new back body,

Zil 131 Camper, going LPG too.

Gaz 69, awaiting MOT

FV432

FV434 (new)

Stalwart x 2 crane 623 and standard 622.

Saracen

M62 wrecker 20 ton..

MTLB starter needs replacing...

Berliet tipper KT 8 multi fuel diesel..

UAZ 452.

Star 266

14.3 ton weeks tipper trailer.....

4.5 ton Mesa trailer that will carry 2.25 tons...

Sanky narrow track...

Sanky 1 and 3/4 ton

M817 Dumper

Green Goddess

Unimog

Scammell 8x6 DROPS

Foden 8 x 4 beaver tail..clutch gone...

FH77 155mm Gun now mostly operational

3x Munga jeeps one now inregular use. One still in rebuild, the one for spares is going to get a diesel engine.

MAn 7500kg

Zil 157 needing new engine, going Cummins straight 6

ZIL 131 decontam unit

Tatra 813 Kolos..new engine orderd.

Ferret, here, got cheated, starter needs sorting...

Fug superb...

get a jolly engineering upgrade to the points, will improve running massively...I would look at all the pipes and check for integrity, certainly I would consider changing the brake rubber hoses, body to wheel, they fail without warning, two went on one of mine last week...so I had no brakes...check your air packs for integrity, if they fail parts are getting very hard to find...I have recovered my throttle remote cylinder by soaking the parts in seal restorer, how long it lasts we will see but it has gone from a massive leak to no leak and working perfectly...

now my clutch is slipping and need to find if its gone or just needs adjusting,...

hi guys anyone know if the genys on the stalwart actually produce 240 volt AC....and how I can get to it if it does, I know they do on theFV432, or did do...but on the stolly ones? anyone know

yes I would think the electric fans would work hard during slow traffic runs....

Just thoughts...

lag the exhaust manifold and exhaust, will reduce engine bay temps a few degrees, improve exhaust temperatures and reduce noise and condensation.

with the fans out, move the oil cooler to a more useful position so it gets cooling air from the air flow through the radiator.

Fit temp guages to oil feed. Increase oil tank capacity....

Maybe even fit an additional radiator behind the first one to increase the water content and the amount of heat exchange area...all relatively simple tasks once i have to remove the engine...

in the end I will likely do non of the above as my toys are not used a great deal on road at all...but its interesting to get peoples thoughts..

great help this...will check things first...

Hi Paul,

 

I gave up trying to get any spares from Poland or Czech Rep.

 

I ended up getting new manifolds made here in the UK, so just need gaskets now.

 

If you know anyone with BRDM2 spares let me know. I'm after the motor and control box for the engine cover louvers. I think these go on most BRDM's so I'll probably end up making one of these too! At least it will last longer than standard items.

 

The stock manifolds literally fell to bits they were so cracked.

can understand, I will keep looking for you when I go over next though...

Starter replacement, anyone know if this is a tough or an easy job....all relative of course...

having seen all the threads on sarrys and the work involved i was just wondering and thinking about a few issues,

1. my second gear belt is on its last legs, I always start in 1st and get through second as quickly as possible to reduce the wear. she will need doing within the next 1000 miles, ie 10 years.

2. The fluid flywheel, i suppose i should renew what ever fails on this when the job is being done, what needs doing.

3. what else should be done at this stage...what can I renew that will reduce the risks of failure in the future...

upgrades,

I have been thinking about the engine cooling a lot and it seems to me that the whole shooting match is a bit crazy, has anyone tried fitting heavy duty electric fans, they offer better flow rates, moving more air around the engine and through the radiator, could they be fitted infront of the radiator, the combined effect would be more space infront of the engine, and better access and a cooler running saracen.

I have a few spare B81's and was wondering about fitting a B81 instead of the B80...any advice..

finally note to myself buy loads of antifreeze to top up all vehicles, all 35 of them...

I got one of the oil pipes in the wrong place. The engine support bracket has to come of to enable you to get the engine in arround the hydrolic pump.

Fortunatly I noticed the oil pipe before the engine went in and became a pain in the a** to correct due to the fact that there is not a lost of space to turn a spanner.

 

Just to update, engine runs. Seems fine, however I now have charging problems. I've tryed 2 generartor pannels with no sucsess, so its front armour off and take out the rad and fans and replace the genny. Project temproary on hold due to other comitments.....

 

Andy

hell on earth...and i thought the stolly was hard work...

dedication is fantstic, these trucks will be very very rare in the not too distant future...

Anyone know a company that can make exhaust gaskets?

 

I need 2 for my BRDM2.

 

Best option so far is buying a sheet of Klinger Ferroflex and getting it water jet cut to shape, but it seems to be working out expensive...

NOT AVAILABLE FROM POLAND OR hUNGARY OR cZECH REPUBLIC?

Usual poppy cock, get on with the conversion, it will be excellent to see it working in its new underwear...just done the brakes on my stalwart and fitted her with her russian off road tyres, she still has her B81 engine but by the time I am finsihed she wont be so much stalwart but she will be a whole load of reliabilish fun, I hope...

Nice bit of work , I can see you want to use it and are doing it so it makes it useable. I WENT A DIFFERENT ROUTE.

I used a jaguar 4.2 petrol and auto box. i used the saracen transfer box so i kept the 6x6. I am doing a saladin at present with a M.A.N diesel engine but keeping the preselecter box. I dont think much of the old B series engine and they never seem to run 100% a diesel is a better option if you realy want to use it.

I have to say that the b80/b81 runs muich better with electronic ignition, as does any petrol engine...however they are a bit like a petulant child, there is always something to annoy you no matter how sweet they are at other times.

however a diesel engine with similar power, and that revs as hard and that is as compact isnt a very easy find...i would think that the cummins 6bta with a bit extra power, say 210 or 240 would be good in a saracen but you would certainly need to change the box...a good auto fitted to the transfer box would be brilliant...

however I have too many projects to do anything like this so staying std is where mine stay mostly...over time my ideal conversions would be:-

stalwart with K60, or french berliet 250 bhp engine, saracen with full auto box and 250 bhp diesel engine, all with mulit-fuel capability..keep posting pics, it will be a great project...

Paul,

 

you are not in an exclusive situation but as I keep telling others that have deep pockets and who buy lots of kit, better have dry heated, vermin free storage to stabilise a vehicle properly let alone a fleet.

 

I share your pain but . . . . . .

 

R

its not a pain, I have gone past the worrying about them as I used to. Now I just plan when they will all be in my cold war museum, all clean and tidy (never) ...dry and heated by my green powerplant fuelled by wood chip and paper...and paid for by millions of visitors (I wish) It will be my fun thing.

I seem to recall Facet electric pumps can be specified for 'install near fuel tank' or 'install near engine'.

 

Nice collection by the way - not to put a downer on it but how does the Russian gear fare living outdoors?

 

- MG

all my stuff has to reside outdoors, its hard on them and a pain...but thats the same for all the vehicles...those under cover dont deteriorate any where near as fast...am working on that though...hopefully next year all of them will be under cover of some sort...

hmm that may be a good idea, she has never had a problem before but we ran her dry, so she isnt happy pulling it up from the tank...will sort it, have a couple of electric pumps, may give them a try...where i fit it is another story, should look at the fuel lines and see where they run...electric pumps need to be near the tank so I may have a bit of a fiddle on my hands...

here are the ones before a reshuffle...

true but so much less well off...

yes been there done that, wait until you have three teenage boys and you try to get them out of bed to go to work...give me a stuck stalwart in 6 foot deep mud anyday. new hoses ordered from Richard Bannister...what would we do without that guy...