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Posts posted by sirhc
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Yes I think that's where it was, I was following him in the Spartan.
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We have booked in 2x CVRT. After last year I wasn't sure if we would bother taking armour again, but hopefully it's a good week. Pity they cancelled the post war vehicle road run this year, maybe that was due to the maniac standing up driving the 432 last year with no track pads, who went though a hedge on the way back?
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It will be either still in service, scrapped, sold to Latvia or at Withams. It could be in private hands but it's very unlikely.
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Hi Andrew,
Nice to meet you the other week, looking forward to seeing your Ferret
Chris
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Try this:
http://www.frost.co.uk/brands/por15/por15-tank-sealer-946ml.html
I have used it a few times with good results.
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Do you have a decent air compressor? If yes then get a needle scaler.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cat84-pistol-grip-needle-scaler-hammer
Paint the 432 will a good red oxide primer as a base coat.
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I have most of a set of the cheese grater armour which is spare and could be for sale. It's heavy though.
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No, but I did make this video...
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I've hired cars in the U.S. And Canada a few times and I've never been asked for anything other than the id card portion of the licence.
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Post some photos and we can give you some advice. Don't scrap it without talking to me first though!
Chris
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I fellow I know has a Sabre (02 FD 92, hull tag SPA673 I think) he thinks was a Scorpion in the Falklands. Am I correct in assuming if this is verified it would be more valuable restored to a Scorpion?
We are in the states so getting to Bovington is a challenge.
SPA673 is a spartan hull number. It should be SCO and a number around 300 maybe.
You can send a freedom of information request from anywhere. Value is what someone will pay for it!
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£14k is a lot for a Wolf 90... there are cheaper ones around... but the Wolf is easily the most suitable for your needs.
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Yes. Easier if you remove the engine deck, but you can take off the drivers seat back, lay on the seat and do it that way.
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Of course, if the replicas don't need to be functional, you could have them 3D scanned and printed in a sintered metal, as 1 part.
In my experience 3D printing with metal costs as much as casting, if not more. 3D printing a wax pattern and then using that for investment casting could be an option, but is again expensive. I've had that done here before: http://www.lestercast.co.uk/
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I assume you want the date in service? You need to send a freedom of information request to the MoD.
Chris
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Post some photos of the batteries installed in the vehicle. Have you anything else connected to the one which goes flat? 12v phone charger, radio, lights etc?
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See page 6:
Mine is fitted with mine blast (plate on the bottom) and ballistic protection (cheese grater Plasan armour)
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What's wrong with it? It's American so can't be that complicated.
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I'll be there, bit late to help you out with bits though!
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Another job ticked off the list. The mantlet is now fitted, along with the traverse and elevation boxes.
I need to make the coax hole smaller as it has been opened out for the chain gun, I will come up with some kind of plug/bung for this.
The Scimitar will go back on hold now as I need to get everything else ready for W&P and come back to it in a couple of months.
Chris
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Chris,
Looking at the pix of it on your driveway, I have to ask: are those pavers? If so, doesn't the weight of the machine or track action damage the surface? I have pavers on my driveway, they are just dry laid on gravel and sand, but interlock like yours. So I am wondering whether driving a Fox on them would be too risky.
That's block paving on my parents drive. Been keeping AFVs on it for years and it's not had any bad effects, except for a few oil leaks, but that's mostly from the Land Rovers.
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Probably a dumb question, but why is there so much water in the engine bay? Things look very rusty. Is that just from sitting outside? I would have thought the compartment would be rain proof.
Nothing on these kind of vehicles is rain proof! They are always full of water if left outside uncovered, and they are always left outside uncovered!
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Remove the final drive, it will come off leaving the drive shaft in place. You can then remove the shaft more easily. You need to disconnect and remove the hand brake cable and the brake pads. Undo the bolts holding the caliper in place, they go through the final drive too. You should be able to then remove the caliper and the final drive, leaving the hand brake bands is place.
CVRT Steering Calipers
in Blogs of MV restorations
Posted
I've been using Jaguar steering pads for years with no problems.