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Posts posted by sirhc
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Been a long time since I did it, why did you put 12v to the junction box? I seem to remember connecting 24v to the terminal in the middle when you take the cover off. I do remember looking at the wiring diagram and it was pretty straight forward.
Chris
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Makano Surplus: http://makanosurplus.co.uk
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Thanks all, The ferret I have has a padded butt holder on the left, underneath the ignition and a padded barrel holder roughly adjacent to the drivers seat base, fastened onto the left prop cover. Reckon it must be for a slim barrelled weapon, maybe an SLR?
Cheers
Jim
Those are for the Bren or later L4A4.
Chris
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The connection is on the bottom..?
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You should have something between the rim and the tube. Originally it could have been a Hutchinson (I think) insert which is a pain to remove, but if I were you I'd get some standard flaps to put in there.
Tyre pressure, you don't have standard tyres so not much point checking the user handbook etc. What are the others inflated to?
I don't think the oil on the threads should be too big a problem.
Chris
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Hi Ivor,
I was looking for a torque reaction spring, only place I could find one was http://jeep-dodge-parts.nl
The other springs, bolts etc all came from Dallas Autos.
Chris
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Par Ware's Ferret book has a useful table which ties contracts to marks and registration numbers, yours was built as a Mk 1/1 like mine, 02CC84.
Chris
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Lewis,
Have you checked for corrosion on the terminals in the 2 donuts of wires? I had some pretty corroded ones, but the inside of the main switch box was my main culprit. I ended up replacing most of the wires and found a rebuild kit to replace the inside of the switch box.
Chris
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It's a shame your Fox got damaged during shipping, but it does seem to happen a lot. It doesn't look like anything too serious, but your first mistake is thinking like a car owner and not a military vehicle owner! A bodyshop is not really going to want to help you, but most things on the Fox are fairly flat and simple.
You should take the damaged wings off and take them down to a few sheet metal/fabrication places. I have found the smaller backstreet companies (one man in a shed) are more willing to help more than anywhere big.
Your flat tyre issue is probably only going to be solved by replacing the inner tube, as you have had new tyres fitted the wheels should come apart easily. This is something you can attempt, but you will need strong arms, big hammers and a lot of levers. I'd suggest getting some friends round to help, they do not need to be Fox owners to help you pry the tyre off the rim.
Regarding starting the engine, with the power and ignition on, can you hear the electric fuel pump ticking? If yes, did you pull out the choke?
Finally a lot of Foxes were modified by fitting a bumper across the front of the wings, it might be worth getting someone to make one up for you?
I agree this hobby is supposed to be fun, but the fun comes from overcoming the issues and feeling proud about the problems you have solved, either trying to locate hard to find parts or making it to or from a show despite the setbacks. We always go out with thought that we might break down, and a plan for recovery, that way when everything goes well it is a win. You've bought an old vehicle, not a new BMW, when in service it would have had much more care an attention every day to keep it in working order than any civilian owners will give it, and even then it would have broken down and had issues.
Chris
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Barry,
I think the height of the Scimitar would depend on what sights are fitted. The BGTI sights are significantly larger than the E-Spire, which is slightly taller than the original sights.
As I posted on my restoration blog, the book says 2.1m.
Chris
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Hi matey
Need some help.
Can you let me know how tall is your vehicle / CVRT Scimitar?
Trying to find out the exact height ?
Many thanks
Barry
Barry,
According to the book I have in front of me, overall height less antennas is 2.10 metres.
Chris
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12 years of collecting spares and 9 vehicles later we have a lot of bits taking up space!
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A few years ago I found a bloke selling CVRT steering callipers on ebay as Jaguar parts. He had bought them from a surplus sale and was taking the seals out and replacing them with standard seals. He had one left which I bought from him, when I told him what I wanted it for he produced a bag of seals he'd removed and was about to throw away!
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Time for some updates!
The Scimitar is now road registered and tax exempt, which is a bonus!
I spent quite a lot of time sorting out the turret hatches. I had to cut a load of the pins, press them out and replace them with new ones. The hatch dampers were a total mess, when I stripped them I found them totally rusted solid inside. One was swapped for a spare and the other was rebuilt with parts from a Spartan drivers hatch damper. I also had to free off all the turret locks. These 'simple' jobs actually took several Saturdays. To get the hatch bolts undone I ended up buying a 1m long breaker bar as the steel bolts had corroded to the aluminium hinges.
Finally with the hatches on and the dampers correctly set up I spent a few days over Easter painting the outside of the turret and all the brackets etc.
I then split the track and discovered some play in the rear idlers. As I had spares I swapped the idler arms for some better ones and the idlers for some NOS ones. I then painted everything and put it all back together.
Starting to look good now...
Next job was to install the sights and periscopes. The periscopes are all NOS and I think the sights are either NOS or refurbished too. I have the covers for the sights at the blasters at the moment. I still need to replace all the turret padding, re-wire the turret etc but to get it into a condition where it can be shown I am focusing on getting it externally complete first.
Next job is to finish the external paintwork and start assembling the turret basket. I have all the basket parts and most are cleaned up and ready to fit. I am planning on taking this to W&P providing I can get the transport sorted.
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When I had one I bought a complete new SWB system and it fitted no problem
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I think you'll find stocks of things like gearboxes and wheel stations have mostly been depleted these days. You could try Banisters or Marcus Glenn, but what they do have wont be cheap.
I also think you'll be lucky to find cheap vehicles for breaking, most Ferrets have been restored now and those which need restoring (when you see them) still fetch good money.
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3 pin socket is for the wiper motor on the windscreen.
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I think you're referring to a ball joint separator. I would call the bit between the damper and the suspension arm the damper link arm.
Chris
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Jim,
I've had my ferret since 2001 and despite my best efforts the front hinge has always been very stiff, it would only open with a long bar. My dad got a sample of something called corrosion block from Adams aviation. After applying a small amount over a few weeks followed by exercise with a bar the hinge is now free and opens easily. I would definitely recommend it.
https://www.adamsaviation.com/en/search/partdetail.php?id=20012
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm
Chris
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Andrew,
Are you sure it's the gearbox? The fan bearings fail regularly leading to terrible sounding noises. The gearbox growl usually goes away when you get into 4th gear or above rather than worse.
Chris
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Get it running properly from a new or clean Jerry can using an adaptor for a generator to start with. Worry about the mess in the tank later, that's a big job.
I've had fuel pumps which ticked but didn't pump before. Do you have a spare?
CVRT Steering Calipers
in Blogs of MV restorations
Posted
With 3 vehicles to keep on the road I'm hanging on to spares like this so none for sale I'm afraid. Try Banisters for a set.
Chris