rbrtcrowther

Right told you i would figure something out so hear is the plan:idea: I have decided that the way forward is an external gear hydraulic pump as they have rather good suction properties. I am looking at several on ebay at the moment. i am pondering just how to drive the pump. Option 1 is to mount it o the engine and run it off the crank pully thus providing constant oil flow all the time the engine is running. Option 2 will involve making a new cover for the rear of the diff with the pump bolted on to it (in effect in the oil pumps normal position only sticking out the back) It would be nice if the taper on the new pump and the oil pump gear were the same but i doubt it very much. Can anyone tell me which way the propshaft turns when running in forward direction as my batterys are dead at the mo and it's to snowy to be jacking the rear wheels off the ground and crawling round under it. I think it's anti clockwise looking at the transmission brake but i'm not 100% sure Your thoughts are welcome http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HYDRAULIC-GEAR-PUMP-GROUP-1-5-8cc-rev-NEW_W0QQitemZ320411655762QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item4a9a05de52

I spent 2 years looking for tyres for mine. Ex militaty sites ect ect just google as oftren as you can. In the end i got 4 as new tyres still with the moulding pips on and one with 90% tread for £500 plus vat and delivery. Only problem is they are on rims that wont fit the scammell so a bit more work to do.

Hmmm i'll figure something out just you wait and see:idea:

Drip feeder eh? hmmmm lots of thought running round my head at the mo like filling the diff REALLY full of oil:cool2:

Glad to hear one person has had a look at their pump and found all is well:sweat:Just wondering but my scammell was only used once or twice a year before i got it so mabey the pump siezed while standing? there is a breather pipe connected near it so moisture could get in. Bills axle was absoloutly full of rust when i took the cover off:??? Mabey the higher road speed of 39 mph ment it was wise to fit a pump and cooler to the Explorer. I'm pretty sure at that speed the prop shaft is running close to 4000 rpm:shake:

Yep stil got a sence of humour but if a man offerd me a militant recovery i might be tempted:cool2:

So is there no oil pump in a pioneer then?

Anyone got any thoughts on this? could be driven off engine or propshaft. Will it suck oil and self prime? might be a bit of over kill but just browsing round at the mo.:coffee: will try to get more info about the propper pump if i can:confused:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ex-MOD-Hydraulic-Pump-NOS_W0QQitemZ130320946924QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item1e57bbd6ec

It's either a training hammer:-D Or there is nothing wrong with his scammell but he feels the urge to hit it. I will happily swap my Scammell for his which will suit us both just fine. I will have a nice truck that works and he will have a Scammell that really does need hitting with a big hammer:-D

For Sale.....Scammell explorer will swap for road worthy AEC militant Recovery truck:)

Utter destruction:(

Well i'm not sure i stand much chance of refurbishing this!! Even the case has smashed where the shaft comes out. the one i took off Bills spare axle is even worse:cry: Also they are different sizes, mine is a first contract explorer and the pump is the same shape but much smaller. i only noticed when i put them on the bench next to each other. This axle oil pump situation has me a bit stumped at the mo. Mine is smashed, The one out of Bills is smashed. A chap i know with a scammell called "jumbo" found his had broken and i'm sure someone on this site had a diff problem because of a smashed pump. It takes 15 mins to remove the cover off the rear of the diff so if you have an explorer take a look. Hopefuly you will find a nice shiney pump or something you can salvage. Better than waiting for strange crunchy noises and then trying to find a new diff. Just a thought but i wonder if a slightly worn pump that has been standing for a few months and the oil has drained out do you think it would hav enough suck to re prime itself? The gear box pump is submerged but this stupid arrangement leaves the pump high and dry. might not be helped if you have to do a load of low speed shunting back and forth to get your truck out of it's parking spot:confused:

I shall look into running a pump off the drive flange. I shall be bench testing a power steering pump with the rather thick 140 oil tomorrow night. Some things i am worried about are... The oil thickness when cold? (belt slippage, Flow of oil to the worm through the drillings in the axle castings) Flow of oil when hot? ( Still enough oil pressure having made adjustments for cold oil?) How much oil do i need to pump? ( an engine driven pump will supply a good flow all the time but how much oil do i need to pump if running off the propshaft in first gear ticking over?) Does the Scammell oil pump work in reverse? Like the one in the gear box, it has no ball valves to control the oil flow. I will let you know the results of the steering pump experiments soon Pleasee feel free to offer any thoughts to any of my questions:)

I do belive you could take the first slightly bent one with no engine or gearbox home for £27000 if you fancey a project:sweat: Or you can have the recovery body winch and crane for £17000:cool2:

Went off to see Bill today and pluck a rear axle oil pump out of a spare axle. After much struggeling and crawling under a pile of scrap the rear cover was removed and low and behold another knackerd oil pump stared me in the face:cry: So thats it for now The scamell aint going knowhere till i figure out some way of pumping oil onto the worm and bearings. Please feel free to offer any advise and soloutions, i think i might be going down the route of fitting a power steering pump driven off the engine and lots of pipework. But first i think i will go outside and headbut the truck for a couple of hours:banghead:

There are a load of loaders at the loyd loaders workshop that are ripe for restoation. Think they are near bradford.http://www.muir-hill.com/ It may look like a large company but he is a one man band mainly selling parts for the tractors. Nice bloke though

Ahhh....When you press it in there should be a dull click as the controll rack shoots to the end ( full fuel position) you are now ready to start. The pump is always in the full power position with the engine stopped as there is no vacume to pull the pump back. Try pressing the button then pull the stop leaver back to see if the button pops up. if not make sure you have a bit of slack in your stop cable to alow the rack to travel further. This could also explane what i think is a lack of "go" from your engine. My pump was gummed up when i got mine so i removed the side plate and spanked the controll rack back and forth and gobed loads of diesel into each end. If you push the button with the plate removed you should see the rack move a bit further. you have to make sure the rack goes full travel of you will be down on power. These pumps are very easy to adjust and also to tweek to give more power but is any one thing is out of adjustment it can slow things right down. Oh make sure the throttle flap is full open and not beyond full open (starting to close again) The size of the throttle body on the manifold limits the overall tp speed. I'll try to get a film of my engine starting and running if it will help. Whats your max engine revs on the clock with no load?

Great stuff:thumbsup: Just what i need a bit more insparation. Can't wait to get mine on the road, i really need to get cracking now. Can't remember what it's like to drive it's been that long:( just wondering had you pressed the cold start button when you started it up in the film? just it seemed a bit sluggish to crack up compared to mine:cool2: not that i have ever had to press the cold start button of course:rolleyes: Have fun and keep the films coming:-D

Errr...... If the hole is on a flat part of the sump can you not just blot a patch over it. An old flor plate from a landy is a good source of ally for a patch , you could even fashion a gasket too only you will have to remove the sump to hold the nuts inside:)

:tup:::rofl::rofl::rofl:Fantastic Thats a propper bodge! Even the attempted weld is piss poor:rofl: When you remove the other hub caps can you make sure you have a friend with a camera handy as the only picture better than this would be a picture of your face upon discovering more welded nuts:rofl::eek:

I think the logo is MB after the designer Mike Bigley??

Scammell Explorer, Why the hell did they use two rubber couplings and a over complicated shaft held together with 8 nuts and bolts to drive the gearbox when a sinple shaft with uj,s would have done perfectly:confused:

It makes you wonder at what point during the lift the operator thought "Hmmmm this aint gonna work":-(

Right....er don't want to sound stupid but i have a question:confused: The truck has extendable outriggers for lifting duties over the side. So what is the reason for the a frame support on the jib? I have also seen it used over the rear. is it just for safety? to relieve the load on the derrick ram? or only used to support a load for a period of time or are they needed to bring the crane up to full duty. Just wondering. Anybody got a load chat for on of those cranes? Love the Explorer in the background too.

Sorry to hear of your woes mate. it's always a bummer when you get ready to do a job and find that "Bubba" has been there before and made an arse of it:( I am usually faced with rounded off nuts and bolts and having removed the offending nuts there is some kind if inovative yet utterly devistating bodge with shards of metal sticking out of it:mad: :rofl:Picture of your comedy welded nut please:rofl: