rbrtcrowther

I suppose you'll be whiping that spring off while your at it or are you waiting for the loud bang :cool2:

Good work Nick least you managed to find the parts. I woulden't worry about the diferent gears meshing as it's all barn door engineering really. might be worth looking up the part in the book about refitting the end case as i seem to remember reading something about shiming the end case with gaskets for correct mesh or something like that.

Oh yeah forgot to mention the amazing two handed gear change:shocked:

Try to link a vid here.....not a Scammell but an american truck with a twin stick being driven very well note the lack of cluch use. The ratios are much closer than the scammells so changes are quicker but you get the idea of what is possible with practiceSomething went wrong...

My explorer screams in 6th gear as you can hear in one of my you tube vids on the restoration of big jenny blog. some don't whine at all. other people have rebuilt gearboxes compleatly and still end up with huge whining. They are a tought old box and so long as the oil pump is working i shoulden't worry. My explorer steering is spot on lovely but it is air assisted. As for changing gear i only use the clutch to start and stop as my clutch brake is currently knackerd so a quick up change is impossible:cry:. So start off in your chosen gear as normal and accelerate, when you need to change up gently ease the load off the box so you can pull it out of gear and let the revs fall off to match the next gear while gently pulling the stick into mesh (you will feel the gentle grinding slowing down as the engine revs fall and the relative cogs start to turn the same speed, when you feel the grind stop pop it into gear and away you go. Changing down is the same but you slip it into neutral and bring the revs up to match the next gear. It all sounds tricky but with a bit of practice seamless effortless gearchanges are possible if you know what gears can be selected at what revs and speed. Tons of you tube vids of clutchless gear changes in big rigs. It's the way to go Drive it like a man:D

Hmmmm...... all gone a bit quiet on here.......must still be hard at it....or down the pub....or perhaps curled up in a ball crying in the shower:D

You wouldent stand a chance with that tiny thing:rofl:

Time for bed me thinks:yawn: it will still be there in the morning:sleep:

Well i still have three hubs to do so there is still time for a disaster at my too:D might end up fighting you for a wheel station:box:

If the tapers are miss matched or knackerd ect the hub nut will tighten up ok but as soon as the truck is driven the hub will move on the knackerd taper the and the nut will loosen and taper will ware further. still fingers crossed for you:blush:

No you have to be stupid to live up here in the hills. I really hope all turns out ok but that nut has had grub screws fitted and then been welded up so it must have come loose more than once. I am half expecting the taper to be screwed so mabey a new wheel station might be the best bet. fingers crossed for you but if it's anything my scammell it will be FUBAR, a simple job ruined by someone elses bodge:-(

Call that a spanner:cool2: thats not a spanner!!:rofl: Its a teeny tiny pocket spanner:pfrt: I'll show you a propper spanner:-D My spanner's bigger than you spanner ect.ect.

Hub back on no drama as it had all been marked up by someone else:D would have taken a picture but not much to see really. One down and three to go but have to get land ready for a steam rally this weekend so time for a quick break.:yawn:

Wow the first steam powered scammell!!! i'm sure it was chuffing up the lane:D nice truck though with a much quieter top gear than mine

Glad to here Floyd's running better. I must look up the timing info for you. The rear hubs amd the brakes really arn't hard to do at all but that hub puller is a serious piece of kit. If i had to make one i would machine it out of a solid lump. May even have to machine the bolt fot it too. Not sure you would find bolt that big in halfords:nut:

Cleaned up the back plate and fulcrum pin is all ok. Fitted the new seals nice and simple. and took the brake shoes to work and steam cleaned all the oily nastyness off them, they came up really well so i have fitted them back to the backplate. All went Really well tonight for a change. Tomorrow if the weather is ok i'll whack the cam back in and plonk the hub back on. I have been dreading this job since i got the Scammell only to find it is a piece of pi** to pop the hubs on and off if you have the right tools. Don.t suppose any one has a hub puller for sale do they? it's a pain having to drive 50 odd miles to borrow Bills:yawn:

I'll give it all a good clean tomorrow. I have two keys per taper which is good nothing missing there:-) just worried about fitting the hub 180 degrees out:-|. still i can always weld the nut up like the one on Nick's scammell to stop it unscrewing:rofl:

I think my only boob was i havent marked the hub in relation to the taper:blush: I can only be 180 degrees out i suppose unless someone else has marked it. the nut, taper and hub are center popped to keep them all together and there is a scribe on the nut and shaft to show when tight. I will just have to hope the taper is well machined:-|

Cheers Mike. Was oil leaking out of the lower brake pin all the time? My hubs only leak when the truck has moved so i think only the seals are leaking but just wondering.

Been pottering hard the last few days:D Went to see Bill and borrowed his hub puller which left me needing something to undo the hub nut. A bit of head scratching and a spot of pilfering from work saw the bits of said spanner gatherd together and huge amounts of grinding, turning. and welding later (plus the rear arm off a fordson major) saw a large spanner fall out of the workshop. Nut was undone, hub removed and brake shoes removed in about 1 hour (not bads for a first attempt me thinks:cool2:) Can anyone offer any helpfull tips on refitting the brake shoes? Of is it just a matter of jemmying the springs while trying to pop the pins back through the holes. And are we agreed both lips fit with the springs facing the oilyness?

thanks cheers for that:-)

Went and picked up the tyres from my mates house yesterday. they are "Mowhawk chief" made in the USA:blush:

The early Explorers like mine had a transmission brake fitted on the rear of the tranfer box. Some early ones had them removed in service cos drivers could do huge amounts of damage applying the on them move. Later explorers had no transmission brake but were fitted with a hill holder brake leaver fitted to the steering coloum. This worked (i think ) through an air valve an applyed all the brakes to assist with hill starts. and should not be used as a parking brake as it will release as the air leaks out of the system. (Us real men who drive older Explorers manage without a namby pamby hillholder;)) There is a trailer brake leaver in the center of the bulkhead under the windscreen which applys only the trailer brakes. On the early Explorers there is a valve just above the throttle pedel which if opened alows the tractor to push a trailer and work the air brakes through the front couplings, This tap should be closed for normal usage and to alow a lead tractor on a double headed train to work all the brakes ect through your front couplings. How ever if this tap is left open the trailer brake leaver will operate all the brakes on the Explorer just like a hill holder but it can make the foot brakes feel a bit funny. Hope this helps. Also the early ones had a Knock off leaver on the neat handbrake where as the later ones had a push button:nut:

Will be fitting a set of bar grips. Can't remember what make or ply rateing as i havent seen them for two years!! I remember 4 are like new with the moulding pips still on and one is slightly worn. But they are all on the wrong rims:blush:. Not sure what they were off but i will offer the old rims for sale soon. Off to get the wheels next week if i can remember where i put them:nut: i think they are in a shed 30 miles away:-D

Well the time has come to put some new boots on the truck so i whipped the wheels off and set about trying to remove the tyres. Having beaten then with a sledge hamer and nearly knocked my teeth out with a crowbar i decided to get a bit heavy and promptly drove the land rover over said wheel in an attempt to break the bead. Still no joy and after more flying crowbars the decision was made to take them to see mr grove. All of a sudden the Scammell wheel looked much smaller and after mr Grove had put his foot down the rim was easly seperated. Me thinks a little more care will be needed to get the new tyres off the current rims and on the the scammell rims but now i am quite confident about the rest of the job. 2 down 3 to go:D A grove bead breakercan be bought second hand in for about £50,000 and can be used for many other little jobs rond the workshop. A very worthwhile investment i think you will agree.