fv1609

Chris, I don't think mine has got any drain holes, it just fills up unless I park it uphill. Nothing I can see in the ISPL or technical description. But what trailer have you got because Sankey didn't make any Mk 3? PS I'm talking wide track FV2381

Right click on the photo & look at Properties :cool2:

Yes well done everyone. I'm assuming Richard knew but was holding himself back. I was hoping people might click on the photo name:) Quite an impressive aerial array, assuming that is not rigging!

I think this is terrible! Does anyone agree with me?

"Chap in the middle"? There seem quite a lot of them! Haven't spotted any dangerous trousers though.

Sorry didn't see your post. Yes I wish it would go as its blocking access so we can't get the caravan out past it & nor can we get hay delivered in any quantity as it comes on tractor & long trailer.

You see the fun is all over far too quickly. You could have paced yourself & made it last all evening.

It looks straight forward to fabricate from standard steel lengths. There are no special "fancy bits" as Fred Dibnah would say. The cushion is fine grade canvas enclosing horse hair. Not much bounce but better than the Mk 2 wooden benches. I can measure the steel thickness if that helps.

Oh you rotter, I thought you weren't around. I thought Monday was bath night. Yes it. So have you beaten your own record at 4 minutes?

This any good? I would offer to measure it but the rear is full of 20 jerrycans, an engine & 2 Mk 2 visors!

What's this all about?

Foliage reflects IR & the purpose of IRR paints is to give a similar degree & pattern of IR reflectance as would be found in NW European woodland. If the paint was absorbent then there would be a vehicle shaped IR "shadow" that would draw attention against the IR refelective foliage. The quote was from Army Code No.60503(PAM 3), Materiel Regulations for the Army, Volume 2, Vehicles & Technical Equipment, Pamphlet No.3, Painting of Army Vehicles, Aircraft & Equipment, Annex B, Dec 1980 Ian what you said may well be the case in the field. What is written in Regulations doesn't always get carried through! I have no service experience & go only go by what is printed. So input from the front line users is always welcome:)

Now who is that hiding their face & creeping down the stairs?

This one?

Oh those aren't cards, so he's playing with bits of pizza then!

CW I didn't know you could play bridge. So where were you stationed when this was taken then?

Bit OT but I was told by an antiquarian book seller that the wartime shortage of wood also effected paper production. Many books published during the war were produced using pulp with a high content of rags, cloth etc. Consequently many wartime books were a lot more durable than peacetime publications.

Paul I've never had wheel studs snap. I've had them detach from the locking lug on the inside, but never shear, but it sounds as if you have had several shear. Are you absolutely sure on the near side you are remembering to turn the wheel wrench clockwise to release? Obviously anti-clockwise on the offside to release.

:confused:

Paul that's TUM Truck rather than TUM Amb, I assume? I've got both.

If you have a 24v system it is better to switch the earth side. Once it is turned off it is nice to know it is relatively safe to work on the batteries. On any of the 4 terminals of the 2 batteries, if you are using a spanner to tighten or undo the terminals if the spanner touches the chassis or its box then it is quite safe. But if you have the switch in the 24v + lead & turn it off, it is not safe to work on the batteries. If you work on the terminals with a spanner, on 3 of the terminals they are 'live' with respect to earth. So the spanner touching earth or the case could cause a very nasty short circuit. Unlike a wire that may burn out, a spanner won't & may weld itself in place & the battery go into melt down. Whether you have two batteries or one there is a slightly greater risk with a switch in the supply line rather than earth. The switch terminals are at risk to coming undone & wires touching earth. Or if the terminals are not covered in insulation (I have never one that was) there is the risk of something falling on it & shorting to earth. Any of those things happening would have no dangerous consequences if the earthed side is switched. I have vehicles with both arrangements. The Pig is isolated in the earth lead as I chose to do that. The Shorland is switched in the supply lead which allows the switch to be placed in the circuit that is nearest the driver. Despite what I have said. Although I would prefer a switched earth, I would always chose the option that gave the switch as easy access to the driver as possible. I once have had a loom burn out & needed to switch off very quickly & would want the same facility in the event of an RTA.

Paul you will probably get away with tapping 12v off for quite a while. Drivers of commercial vehicles are none to worried about the longer term consequences of doing this. But it will catch up with you eventually when the "lower" battery will let you down. I know I used to do that many years ago & learnt my lesson. If you have a circuit of electrical items in series, the same current has to flow equally through all components. One component cannot demand additional current. Once the "higher" battery ie the untapped one, is charged it will stop drawing current. Therefore no more current can be made to flow into the "lower" battery which is still undercharged. With time any battery denied its full charge regularly will fail to perform properly. The fact that the system could deliver 90 amps doesn't get round this imbalance of needs at all. Trying to get round this imbalance by selectively charging the "lower" battery is terribly difficult, as you have to ensure that both batteries regularly receive a charge to match their needs. Although I say I learnt my lesson. I didn't really, in another vehicle I used a 24v inverter to produce a separate 12v supply to top up the "lower" battery. But inevitably what went in didn't always match what got taken out. Be very wary of using a car radio on the "upper" battery. I have never come across one that didn't have a negative earth to the body of the radio nor indeed one that didn't have the same to the braid on the coaxial cable for the antenna. Unless perhaps if you were thinking of using a "ghetto blaster" where the chassis is hidden in plastic. Even if the whip antenna was connected to earth you could block that with a capacitor just in case the whip feed touched the vehicle chassis. A final thought Paul, you haven't been tapping off 12v in your Pig? I seem to recall lending you are starting handle a few times:-\