fv1609

Well the Met did have two Mk 2 pigs. They used to do training with them in the area now used by the dome. They were painted gloss dark blue. When they were sold off one ended up in Scotland. They did requisition a Mk 1 in the Balcombe Street siege in 1975

Ok Matt it's the time of year for that sort of thing. Thanks for keeping me in the picture, which is courteous of you. I flit around a number of forums poking my nose in to see if I can help. Sometimes it takes time to research some document or go & measure or photograph something. Generally people respond, but there are some that never come back, so one is left wondering was the info of help & I presume it was if there is no further contact. So it can put one off responding & spectators are also left a bit up in the air. I quite often spectate myself & see how a query turns out. So await with interest once duty is done!

You ought to get out more:) Somewhere I've got a pic of his Shorland variant .............................................................built on a Reliant Robin

He was selling things next to me at a Dallas Digout about 6 months ago!

Oh alright here's another

A couple in service with sinjohns at national ambulance rally Cosford in 1989.

I've just measured the resistance of the armature winding on my single speed (Mk 2/1) & it's 2 ohms. (ie A & B) Interestingly I notice that on the single speed the two windings are kept separate, but on the 2-speed one end of the field winding is connected to the armature winding on pin B. This leaves E spare but is earthed in both gen panels as is B. So if you are used to testing the single speed & then test the 2-speed remember that E has no connection within the generator itself.

If you use a single speed generator & a 2-speed gen panel & it works that's fine. Remember the single speed is 12A but the 2-speed is 25A so when it is working you are denying yourself charging capacity. (Obviously if a 2-speed gen used with a single speed panel, then the panel couldn't handle the current) On the gen: Field winding: C & E 12 ohms for No.1 Mk 1 or 16 Ohms for No.1 Mk 2/1 Armature: A & B very low, an ohm or so I expect - turn the shaft & see if it fluctuates but if there is high resistance then the brushes have gone. So if it is the gen, then this is your chance to upgrade back to what it should have been. Gen No.1 is very rare to get hold of, gen No.2 is relatively common.

Yes that's how I proposed to my wife :-D

Hello CW yes I know what you mean but he lists non authentic & what I assume is authentic still quite reasonable. But I know what you mean I once had trouble on a repro cylinder, the pipe thread had been bored too deep & the pipe could not be screwed in far enough to form a seal. Depending on my spares situation I'm not sure whether to necessarily replace the cylinders for the sake of it if they are free. Hoses replace certainly. Another problem I need to face up to is jumping out of 3rd or was it 2nd when braking going down hill. I've never had to tangle with a gearbox, could that be an external selector problem really?

Yes I need to order some brakes hoses from him as well. They look quite cheap. This morning a clutch hose was £11 something + VAT, but without it I can't get the clutch slave replaced & sorted. His S2 wheel cylinders seem cheap, I think I probably have a least a set in stock. I will replace them all as I did them all 20 years ago, I don't want them sticking etc. With the weight of the Shorland brakes are a priority. But it is amazing to look at these lists on dealer's sites & see the stocks of all sorts of things, such a change from Humbering & having to scratch around recycling & modify things!

Now if they could fix a saddle to it & give you some decent controls. That would be an interesting ride & a lot safer than being stuck on top of a horse!

Mark, yes you can certainly charge one at a time on 12v. But many of us will leave a battery on charge overnight. It's a real pain to then have remember to charge up the other battery. Not only is it a fiddle to remember both of them, but it doubles the charging time. A few years ago I got fed up up with piddly chargers in fragile fancy plastic boxes with LEDs & claims of having "intelligence". At the time Halfords sold this SIP charger & they were about £75. But it is 12/24v heavy duty in big metal box & has a proper ammeter. It has been well worth it in terms of reliability, sturdiness & the ability to start a vehicle (bit of a struggle with a diesel though) & you can have all those facilities on the 12v setting as well! http://www.aktivetools.com/sip-25077-professional-battery-chargerstarter-1224v-21030-amps-1034-p.asp

Yes that's more like it.

Maybe it had Unit markings, that were subsequently removed in a heavy handed way? Or maybe it was UBRE & the fuel hazard signs were removed in a similar way?

Do I really need it? It's just that when it was put together someone who designed it thought it was needed. It's another line of defence, particularly at a time when there are degunging & derusting issues going on. For the sake of £3 I might as well fit it. That's what the dealer said they cost, but he's sold out of them! The Wolf was making a funny noise, well not funny - worrying. Found it was a fractured bracket that supports the guard on the front brake disc surface. So rather than rub it down, mig it & paint it, I bought one for £3. So it wasn't a wasted journey. Never like RRs to my mind they don't look like Land Rovers, I like vehicles to look as if they have been made out of a large Meccano set.

I agree with Chris sounds as if you have the wrong mix of gen & gen panel, although it did work once. Are you sure that it is the single speed you have? If in fact you have the 2-speed presumably you've not been priming the gen gearbox with engine oil, if it has stood idle for a few weeks? If that is so the gen gearbox may have failed. So it won't charge at tick over, but would charge about 1000 rpm or so. If with high revs still no charge & the problem has been getting from occasional intermittency to longer periods then failure, I suspect the gen brushes have worn out.

Did you mean UBRE?

Truck, Armoured Patrol, 4x4, Land Rover 110 (= Glover Webb APV)

No idea. I've never had any interest in Range Rovers - far too luxurious.

I've just looked in my 110 IPC & various fuel tanks described, but one seems to match up to Strainer Element,Sediment PRC2475. Thanks for that there is a dealer who has a MOD Rover service contract about 5 miles away. Let's hope he's not closed for Christmas yet!

ENV? Yes I think so. I've been working on some other bits. The shelac type brown gunge has attacked other fuel tank components of course. I have been able to scrape the float but the filter gauze has been a problem. I subjected it to steam from the domestic steam cleaner, all that did was make the gunge more pliable. But it wouldn't flow off. Tried various solvents including carb cleaner, but the only thing that would do it was universal thinner. Using an interspace tooth brush & a cotton bud on both sides of the gauze I shifted most of it. From a thing that looked like a lump of toffee. The problem is the gauze is still clogged & a few splits have appeared. Does anyone recognise this filter? It doesn't appear in the 2A IPC. Is it a standard component from any other vehicle, just is a push fit onto the 1/4 in fuel pipe? On the base it says "NYMOL 1 PAT"

Somewhere I have a picture of a S2 SWB in RAF Bomb Disposal service, I'll try to find it. Shorland ENV? Yes I think that is what it is called, very spherical diff? But only on Mk 1 & 2 The Mk 3 had a different diff.

Yes you have! You've just posted it "BD"

I was holding back, anyway it was from a range of Defenders used as weapon carriers produced by Land Rover: "We can provide mounts for everything from the 7.62 mm general purpose machine gun and 30 mm canon through to anti-tank missiles like TOW, MILAN and HOT. Anti-aircraft weapons like Javelin and Bofors RBS70 can also be mounted."