fv1609

Probably, but Sundays I sometimes do carboots. Any other times?

I make it up as I go along. No, no, no, just joking. I have several sources of reliable data. Looks quite complete. Nice to see it still has Mk 1 front wings.

32 BK 39 Contract No. 6/V/27455 FV1602 (ie FFW GS Truck) Engine No. 8756 Delivered to 31st ‘B’ Vehicle Depot Church Broughton Receipt Voucher No. CBR/R/463 Converted to FV1612 1958-60 Struck off BAOR 19/9/69 Recovered to 32 Central Workshops (Bicester) 18/10/72 Converted to Mk 2 as FV1611 1/73 Struck off 2/8/84 (It is difficult to read the company that purchased it, as it is written in joined up writing but with the capitals as just large lower case letters. So could be something like Abridut Rebuilds) Batteries No.2 Mk 1, FV157937 which are 60 Ah. But I would choose a modern battery as large as you can get. To give you some reserve if it is being difficult to start but also to give a bit of spare capacity to tide you over a weekend show.

Paul, I don't know what sort of starter it is. Can you not test it & verify the various supply voltages are actually getting to it? If no joy in situ, if it is bust you've got to remove it anyway, then you could at least bench test it. Seems a bit drastic to condemn it on the basis of smell alone.

When you come back I'll need voltage readings (its easier in 24v terms) when the ignition is off, ticking over & revving. Also I need to know what Mk of Gen Panel you are using. Not a fan of the 12v tap across the 24v supply. That way one battery will drain more than the other & will never attain full charge. Once the "upper" battery has attained full charge it cannot pass more current as the batteries are in series, so leaving the "lower" battery under charged. This will bring about premature failure. You can try to offset this by putting a mains charger set on 12v & top them up with charge on a regular basis, but a bit tedious. Better to have a 24v bulb.

Yes its on display at Beaulieu, squeezed in the corner.

The alternator light comes on because when you turn the ignition on (but engine not running) it receives 24v + from the feed to the ignition coil. The other end of the bulb gets an earth return through the generator. When the generator is running this earth return for the bulb changes & it is receiving 24v + from the gen output. There is then no difference in voltage to the input of the ignition coil therefore it goes out. The front batteries are for the vehicle, the rear for the radio. The vehicle will run without radio batteries but you must isolate the lead terminals from each other & from accidental earthing. It looks like you have the ammeter in the shunt box, which means it was intended for the transistorised regulator in the Gen Panel No.9 Mk 4. If you are using a Mk 3 or earlier it will work but the charging light will not. The ammeter only measures current to the radio batteries. As they have higher voltage then it looks as if they are charging, but the vehicle ones are not. The most obvious explanation is that one of the contacts on the large BCK relay in the Gen Panel has melted. As when it the engine is running both batteries should have identical voltages. When there is sufficient output from the gen, there is a dedicated 24v + output that only operates the winding to the relay. When activated this relay closes & joins both pairs of batteries in parallel & connects them to the main gen output. When the voltage from the gen dies down or the engine is turned off the batteries are isolated from each other, otherwise the more charged set would discharge into the weaker set. Furthermore there would be a discharge through the windings in the gen which would flatten the batteries. If all else fails bring it round here. (The diagram was a help I had been rather confused by trying to picture it all in words)

No voltage regulation is needed as it will work over a wide range of voltages as the system compares ratios of resistance & is independent of voltage. It is Desyn type indicator, which can be viewed as a potentiometer consisting of 3 windings in series like a triangle with 2 wiper arms which are insulated from each other. All connections are wired in parallel to a similar set of 3 windings in delta arrangement in a moving coil indicator. A voltage applied across the wiper arms means that the position of the wiper arms is mimicked in the display meter. The Desyn sensors are identical to those used in aircraft fuel tanks as is the cork float. The wiper arms can lose their spring & the windings can become a bit worn. This is especially true of the windings that correspond to the low end of the scale. The top end of the scale doesn't wear out as the tank is rarely that full. This means there are 5 connections to the sensor, it is not unknown for them to become intermittent & indeed they have to go via a changeover switch to the display gauge which increases the chance of a dodgy connection in the bullet connectors. Failure of a connection to just one winding upsets the whole balance of the system & you can be low on fuel to suddenly find it reading nearly full. I have have a few brand new sensor heads if anyone is really stuck.

I do my tests laden which is the most telling, as you make the point about weight. Although a Mk 2 Pig is about twice the weight of a Humber GS, yet their specific Standards are required to be the same. There is no reference in the book to weight of the vehicle itself or laden or not. I assume any vehicle fully laden should be able to demonstrate its braking efficiency is up to the standard of even a lighter vehicle unladen. I can tell if one wheel system is not up to scratch as it can pull the vehicle to one side - the good side. The rear tyres leave different skid marks on the track I use (track = country lane, not as in 'race track'!) After a run I compare the drum temperatures with an IR thermometer gun. Binding is regularly checked when I lubricate the wheel stations, I find it always easier to get the wheel off & get stuck in, as there can be up to 9 lubrication points depending on Humber type. But I take the point not as comprehensive as a roller tester, but more so than the average vehicle that only gets assessed once a year.

Thinking about the weight difference between a Humber GS & a Pig Mk 2. The standards are the same emphasising that braking efficiency measurement is all about speed & distance. Modern documents were no help but looking in Manual of Driving & Maintenance for Mechanical Vehicles (Wheeled) 1937, I found this, which matches up to the Humber Standards exactly: Of course one always has to remember "thinking distance"!

I agree. Taking steps to periodically demonstrate that you have made some effort to verify braking efficiency is worthwhile in itself. Although this day & age pieces of paper do seem to be important (to other people). I regularly do Tapley tests & although that has a certificate of calibration, these expire. So I go back to first principles for verification. This is based on the Field Standards that comprise the EMER. This sets a standard for braking on a level surface travelling at a constant speed. So this is a test that can be applied without having to have a Tapley meter. For Humber FV1600 (GS, Pig Mk 1 & 2) Field Standard Minimum Stopping distance @ 30mph on level 60.3 ft max Tapley reading 50% Handbrake to hold on slope 1 in 4 (14 degrees) Field Standard Repair & Base Standard Stopping distance @ 20mph on level 22.0 ft max Stopping distance @ 30mph on level 50.2 ft max Stopping distance @ 40mph on level 89.0 ft max Tapley reading 60% Handbrake to hold on slope 1 in 4 (14 degrees) Other vehicles should have these Standards expressed in the relevant EMER Chapter 8 Part 1 (Field Standard) & Part 2 (Base Standard). So if it you have it maintained to the in-service requirement, I think that should demonstrate a degree of diligence.

Yes a few Whitworth, but not many. Also forgot BSP - lots of those. I find dedicated sets per thread are worthwhile. Those Multi-thread selection boxes are frustrating, because I always seem to need the size that isn't there!

Also some BSF, small BA & I found one hub plug that had been tapped to metric - took me a while to twig when a new plug wouldn't screw in :argh: What are you planning on doing then Adam?

At least there is a bit of room to play with under there. On the Hornet I used to use the silencer of a Midivan. It was the only thing that would fit as the Hornet had the silencer under the radiator with the tail pipe exiting in front of the offside wheel.

Paul is your 432 a Mk 1? If so I think you might need these spare generators & gen panels. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=10364

Paul will he be able to reproduce this though? It is needed from a noise point of view, but I always thought that an exhaust/silencer system was designed to give a predetermined back pressure for optimum engine performance. I can't find that written down anywhere, but had it fixed in my mind. Perhaps others can comment.

Have you got your bit of asbestos ready? That firm in the Midlands who do the brake pipes also make a repro pig exhaust system. But I've never seen one in use & don't know what it consists of..

Why bother with "og" If you made it out of say a 12 x 12 we could all come round when it rains at the showground.

I think you will find that this has the same terminations as the hose for a MGA part no. SBR051. The catch is that the bore is slightly narrower, so it will have a different flow than the hose on the other side. But the repro hoses that a company in the Midlands sell also have this limitation. Although I once discussed this anomally with the proprietor who felt that the flow of fluid would be just the same irrespective of a narrower bore! I would suggest that whilst you are at it you replace the same hose on the other side. That outer one does seem particularly vulnerable & I think you saw a pig at W&P with the same hose having failed. But if you haven't yet replaced any hoses perhaps it is time to replace the lot?

Yes that is correct yours IS a Mk 2. All FV1611, FV1612, FV1613 were made as Mk 2 The FV1609 was the real Mk 1 The problem was in Op Bracelet the Army forgot there was a Mk 1 or even a Mk 2. A pig was a pig so the uparmoured pig was called Mk 2, but should have really been called Mk 3. A bit like the confusion with the Series 1 Land Rover when the Army designated the 2A Lightweight as Rover 1.

Been offered $millions from Nigeria? I have occasionally replied in Borat & caused a level of confusion the other end, but this site takes things a lot further. It can be incredibly wasteful of time but if you are bored, have a sense of humour & enjoy distracting criminals & wasting their time, have a read of this: http://www.whatsthebloodypoint.com/

I wouldn't hold out much hope for manufacturer's ability or willingness to cross reference a part number. If you have the NSN of the bit you require, I maybe able to cross reference it to a manufacturer's number or translate it via the FV design spec to the VAOS. As you may know the VAOS was the vocabulary prefix that was often just attached to the manufacturer's part number. This prefix formed the basis of the DMC (Domestic Management Code) that now precedes the NSN. The prefix to look for is LV9/BTR or in later times 9/BTR. This indicates it is a component for a post-war 1-Ton trailer & must be bought whenever you see a label like that! The IPCs to look for are Army/WO Code No: 14461 (Revised 1973) Published 1974 14461 1966 11625 1956 11704 1956 IFV/PD/Ptg805/581/6850 1946 AFAIK, that covers all the 1-Ton post-war Cargo/GS trailers there are of course other IPCs covering certain types eg water tankers etc The EMERs are covered in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES U 210 - 219 for all 1-ton chassis & the cargo version U 210/1 - 219/1.

Barra, yours is definitely a Sankey rather than a Brockhouse. 6115-99-102-2998 Sankey 6115-99-102-2999 Brockhouse Asset Code 5955-0790 Servicing Schedule - Army Code No.11031 I have four main parts books for the post-war 1-Ton trailers. This one below is perhaps the clearest & gives NSNs. Just be careful of reading the numbers from the diagram, don't use the first column "Item No." use the sixth column "Plate Ref". That always catches me out! If you want exploded photos, I can do that but the parts are in VAOS rather than NSNs.

Barra This isn't quite the same but it is of the right era. It is interesting that it is an item of the 1950s yet it has a NSN that was certainly current up to 10 years ago. The UK didn't ratify the STANAG adopting NSNs until 1956 & it wasn't implemented until 1965. This suggests the generating system was of a later era. I have a lot of stuff on 1-Ton trailers as I have a Cypher Office on one, but give me a bit of time. Is there a specific item you're mainly stuck on? I have info on variants including: water chiller, water purifying, command post, gas welding, petrol pumping, pole carrying & pigeon loft (!)

EMER ERROR! There was an error in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N 257/2 Mod Instr No.19. This relates to the new position for the oil filter to accommodate the tandem brake servo. The oil pipes were connected in such a way that the oil filter by-pass valve was rendered inoperable. This was corrected in Wksp Management Technical Instruction No. 3 (d) issued by 44 Cmd Wksp. The error was corrected by the reversal of the pipes from the sump. The correct plumbing is shown here: