fv1609

What are the chapter numbers you need?

So I assume you are after: 2320-H-100-302 Technical Description 2320-H-100-512 Fault Diagnosis 2320-H-100-522 Repair Instructions 2320-H-100-523 Repair Instructions 2320-H-100-811 Modification Instructions 2320-H-100-821 General Instructions Do you have any of these or just bits missing? That is quite a lot of documentation. I don't mind copying crucial or missing pages, but it would take a long time to do more. The other thing these are in microfiche so it would have to be a jpg of each page.

Well its amazing what a bit of warm weather can do to make the workshop more inviting! Don't know about the sponge I'm afraid.

Very satisfying Martin, I enjoyed that. Nice to have somewhere to charge around in before going on the highway. Who was more excited you or the dog?:-D You probably are doing this, but always move off in 1st gear & always reverse in 4WD

Thank you Jarda. What year is you vehicle I wonder? I'm tempted to think 2075 in some way refers to 1975.

Andy thank you for looking. CH26 is the Lucas general number for the filter unit. So far I have identified specific types 4716A 47206 47206A 54483158 552606 So 47206D is another one. The very early filters had 2 capacitor & 1 choke, later versions had an additional capacitor & choke. I'm try to work when that happened. The 1962 box doesn't have the extras but the 1969 one does. Given your Rover is 1980 its tempting to think 3284 refers to 1984?

Those of you who have Rover 24v systems have no doubt noticed that the black filter box with the ballast resistor has a date stamped on the top. There are usually 3 stampings, CH26 & to the right of it a number that seems to change & on the line below a month & year. However I have so far only identified (from the boxes I have) 62, 69 & 70. I have seen a couple of NOS ones which are undated. I have not been able to see if the capacitors were dated. Maybe the capacitors in these are of later & more reliable design & date monitoring was no longer required? Inside you will find the capacitors are marked with a year usually the same as the box. Capacitors do deteriorate with time & although this would become increasingly obvious when the distributor capacitor fails, it might not be noticed in the filter box. Extreme failure would mean raised levels of ignition interference on the radios. I wonder whether owners of FFR vehicles when they next look in the engine bay could make a note of the number to the right of CH26 & the date stampings please. Then to see if that filter box date is the same age as the vehicle or whether a pattern emerges of replacement after say 10 years. Or maybe they were only replaced if interference became a major issue? Many thanks.

A brave & noble thing you are doing Wayne. I have found heat, in measured intensities, from a gas torch is a good workshop companion for intransigent fixings of various kinds.

It took others to seize the initiative in health awareness. http://www.junkworthknowing.com/medicine/nazi_hitlers_anti-smoking_movement

Tony, this was the view in 1912. Smoking on the march was merely "discouraged" rather than prohibited. This extract does refer to cigarette-smoking it seems in the belief that it is "the most harmful form". Smoking in barracks seemed to only talk in terms of pipe smoking. Men were advised not to share their pipes & boys were encouraged not to smoke at all. I can find no other references to pipes in that context. Complaints about "itching of the pipe" do occur but I think that leads us somewhere else.

Doug you might be alright. The legal status of the symbol seems to be a bit vague. This is from DEF STAN 05-34/Issue 2 1984

On a Mk 2 they would have been painted silver, well its actually powdered aluminium & is a covering that is supposedly flame retardant. Given the particular role you can see the value of that sort of protection. Some people use silver paint & in particular smooth Hammerite. But it tends to look too shiny never looks very convincing to me. The real stuff can be obtained. As this 'paint' was not to be used with a primer, which in itself could be flammable, it was paint directly onto bare metal. Sometimes it tended to flake & reveal odd rust spots starting, a feature that was entirely authentic. It was easy to create slightly irregular patches of finish if the brush direction changed. But painted over rust patches & blotchy paintwork look more realistic than the smooth uniformity of a showroom finish. Although one could argue they might be new replacements just obtained from stores. But in that case being Ferret ones they would be black (see picture). But I would just slap some of the aluminium stuff over the green paintwork.

Bob I think the purpose was two-fold. Yes to provide a lock, but an external one, without compromising electrical conductivity which you would get coating the thread with anything. Particularly important with such high currents being carried. Secondly to form a seal against the ingress of moisture. So I would have thought it would be worth dabbing on something yacht varnish maybe? The picture conjures up such a nostalgic aroma of old electrical items lightly tinged with fresh ozone. Hmm

Yes Chris it was. I just looked back at some of Withams pics of it. Green with orrible gloss black splodges.

Congratulations, I’m sure it will bring you a lot of fun, perhaps a few tears but above all a lot of satisfaction. I would verify that the ERM is actually correct by looking at the chassis plate with your head to the front of the front nearside wheel. Sometimes Pigs for various reasons have lost lost this plate & an identity is assumed. Sometimes a private owner or film company want it to assume a different identity & choose something else. Assuming it is 25 BK 54 Serial No. 32554 Engine No. 8344 Built as FV1602 Contract No 6/V/2710 Receipt Voucher No. FTM/R/3248 Delivered to 2nd Vehicle Group RAOC HQ Feltham in Middlesex: 21st B Vehicle Depot Feltham Converted to FV1612 (ie FFW Pig) In period 1959-60 Operation Bracelet uparmoured & converted to FV1611 (APC role) in period Sept 1972- June 1973 Struck Off Censuss 10/11/80 to 36 Command Workshops Sent to Queens Division Depot

Wayne that's not fair bowling me a googly when I'm trying to show off. Battery box colour is something I'm trying to wrestle with at the moment. My Pig has the incorrect Ferret boxes fitted which I am attempting to address. I have two Humber boxes that have only a single coat of paint from new. But the problem is that one is DBG & the other black! Although anyone with a Pig in service for a while could quite reasonably paint them in aluminium. My problem is that mine only saw 2 years Army service as a trials vehicle & I feel the boxes should be as originally intended as a FV1609. My instincts make me lean to black. Early Mk 1 pics suggest black & indeed some very early B Series engines were black & so were the ancillaries. Earlier UHBs of various vehicles often show some items still in black where they have not had rebuilt components fitted. Pictures of inside FV1609s show they were not painted aluminium but what looks likely to be green, so DBG I assume. Early Mk 1 pics show probably black battery boxes, aluminium passenger seat lower frame in aluminium but the seat frame for the canvas in probably green - matching the driver's seat frame. To add to my conundrum RUC Pigs were painted white internally, but how far should I extended that? Should the gear box tunnel be white or should it be aluminium or DBG as it looks in an early development photo?

Wayne I think the reason is that you have proper Humber boxes whereas Martin has Ferret ones. The crucial difference is that the Humber boxes have few holes which is important for wading preparation. Whereas the holey Ferret ones are better protected from water ingress being inside the hull. Humber lids have handles, a rectangular pressing around the edge & a rubber lining. Ferret lids are secured by 2 bolts on one end & a single bolt the other, there are strengthened by a X shaped pressing & don't have the lining. Some nice Ferret NOS boxes:) Martin there is no disgrace in having the 'wrong' boxes. That's what your vehicle was no doubt fitted with in service & a large number of Mk 2 Pigs actually had Ferret battery boxes fitted when the originals corroded away at their bases.

I think you will find it is Lacquer, shellac H1(a)8010-99-942-7563 Has good electrical insulating properties BTW Lovely to see all those clean electrical contacts looking so good in your picture. I used to have a Hornet & that used the same switch panel unfortunately some nitwit had run it without the radio batteries connected & the battery leads shorted out melting the switch contacts rather a contrast to your nice picture.

Russ although there is a clear structure to FV numbers that relate to a particular specification for a vehicle, there seems to be no obvious structure to other FV numbers used to identify a part or bodywork to a vehicle. FV numbers related to a design specification or drawing number laid down by the Chief Engineer, Fighting Vehicles Design Dept of the Ministry of Supply. As far as vehicle bodywork goes the numbers were issued chronologically, but for vehicle components these were issued in blocks to be used by different manufacturers involved in the project. Although it is usually possible to cross relate a FV no to a NSN or to an earlier VAOS part no, it doesn't usually convey any usable information that one might glean from a stores item code rather than a design specification code. Although it is true that components themselves often only bear a FV no.

Paul the sickening things is that at W&P about 20 years ago Anchor Surplus had a whole crate of Claribel units & none of us realised what they were!

Paul yes I,ve got the EMERs. Can show you at Yeovil.

Martin when you say you "can't engage the clutch" do you mean the clutch pedal doesn't move at all or it moves all the way but nothing happens & you can't engage gears? I would check to see whether you still have a chain or a rod type linkage & make sure these are not stretched, undone or broken. Get someone to operate the pedal & observe what moves. There was story of a Pig coming under attack in NI when the clutch mechanism failed. One brave soldier lay on the bonnet whilst levering a metal bar on the clutch lever. The driver had to shout when he wanted the clutch activated. With your adhesive backed foam it is better to buy stuff that is thinner than you think you need. Then if you need it thicker you can run another layer over the first. Be wary of having too much on the top edge & the uppermost vertical sides. Although it can compress quite well it still has a finite thickness & you can find too much around the upper half of a hinged visor like this can prop it open a little wider around the lower half. I would build up the strips in stages rather than smother whole aperture with foam strip to find that although you have cured a leak on the upper part that you have made it worse as the visor closes less effectively. I would first ensure that the copious layers of paint are chiselled away from the frame & visor edges. Place a lower horizontal strip then check it still closes fully then progress halfway up each side, being prepared to thin the foam's thickness this is best done with scissors whilst it is still on the backing strip. It is tedious & messy testing for leaks with water all the time. To start off with it would be more convenient to sit in the cab with all door & hatches closed then get an assistant to shine a powerful torch tracing the edge of the visor. That can be quite revealing. Most classic car accessory/upholstery suppliers will sell this in varying thickness & widths by the metre. If you find there are significant gaps consider this method. Where there is a gap fill the frame with Plastic Padding then liberally grease the part of the visor opposite then closing it firmly but slowly. Wipe away any excess, let it set then gently open the visor. As it will be a very accurate match you will need to slightly sand paper the surface to make allowance for however many layers of paint you are going to use. Only do small sections at a time with checking for clearance before moving to the next section.

It's not Shorland which is 2520-99-818-0231 However 2520-99-793-5672 corresponds to FRC8252. I can't find which Rover they fit but they are expensive £4,338.25 + £867.65 VAT Looks like you got a bargain:D http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=145811

Paul that may not matter too much. On the entry form you tick how many of the 4 days (Fri-Mon) you will attend. I suppose it depends how subscribed the entries are & that depends how many people want to get away from it all on the Saturday.

Preston did invite me but it's a bit far just for a day. I usually go to Popham Airfield Jumble on the Monday. But this year was just desperate to go somewhere for the whole weekend where there are no TVs.