fv1609

1308 is the Lot No. for 57 BE 02 sold on the 3rd day of a sale 14 Sept 1967 It was sold to Hirsts for £52, it looks as if he bought a consecutive batch of 23 Champs ranging in price from £52 to £72

Nothing embarrassing there, Wayne at least you had a go. The coil is ok, it is the air pipe from the compressor. Yes there is far too much grease. The clue is that it is in the wrong place.

Ok so is there a problem here?

Ah so that's what "C & A washer" means :-)

What a shameful thing to happen particularly when hospitality was being provided for enthusiasts by enthusiasts & their trust has been abused like this. Even more shameful is the fact that these people must to some degree be in the hobby.

Alec don't give up you've got it! Well done! Spot on! See the difference on mine There should not be a nipple there. It should be a blanking plug which is just a bit shallower. The diff casing is arranged to just give clearance for the plug, but with a nipple there as you pointed out it hits the casing. This results in a reduced right lock, although with time the nipple has got ground down to some degree. This also means that when injecting grease it tends to leak out & not get injected deeply into the joint. The tubes are hollow & it is said only to be necessary to inject into the other joint. However in theory that is fine but a lot of grease comes out of the one joint & not the other. I prefer to replace the plug with a nipple inject & then replace the plug. It is an easy mistake for an owner to make by thinking the plug should be replaced. So very well done!

Yes I think what you are referring to is the protrusion that hits the vertical end stop pillar. The answer is in the driver servicing section of the UHB;)

I see what you mean but that isn't it. Although I once met a man with a Pig & a friend tried to weld up his broken torsion bar but that is another story. The problem is more in the middle of the screen & in fairness really needs a Humber person to spot it. But you lot are doing very well. So where are all the Humber-lovers tonight?

Its not listed in the RAF 16E catalogue at under supressors. But this looks like the hijacking of an Army VAOS prefix derived from LV6/MT4 which is for common electrical MT stores, which includes sparking plugs etc. So the Army VAOS item would be LV6/MT4/21388

16E/14488 is listed in the 1954 AP2515E just as "Heater (Engine)" together with another 20 such elements. The detailed entry shows it as "ELEMENT, immersion, 500/1,000 watts" It appears again on another page as above "c/w C. & A washer" Rather helpfully it states it is for: "Morris 24-hp Ambulance CV11/30"

LV7/SD is Army. LV7 is the VAOS prefix for non Standardised British vehicles SD is Standard Motors Ltd I have a 1950s 16E Vocabulary which is several inches thick, which may be of use. But I'm afraid I can't read any more from your labels.

RAF 16E is the Vocabulary prefix for MT electrical items

Neil yes there is a fair bit of oil, but I don't think it is leaking from the sump. I think some oil is getting thrown there from a failing seal on the Tracta joint as gear oil is weeping from the brake drum bake plate. But that is of course out of sight & not the particular fault I had in mind. It's not a flexi hose Neil, its a free ended metal drain pipe for the block. Its not a fault that would be obvious unless one knew the Humber underneath fairly well, as everything may appear in place. But it is mechanical that can be seen & it's not a fluid problem. (BTW Neil sorry to hear about the Rover problems)

Alec thanks for having a go. Yes the pipes do look suspicious. The one on the right is the drain from the engine block. The dry one is broken & is the radiator drain. It should be longer & broadly follow down where the engine drain pipe goes. There is a certain generosity of oil all over the engine & neighbourhood. But these are not the problems that I was focussing on.

ok bit of a clue then, there is a problem here & no it is not my vehicle!

Is there a problem here?

Have you got some pictures of what you want I'm not very good a visualising things in BSW. My brain thinks in AF terms! It would just make it easier when I'm rummaging before I get the micrometer out. What lengths are you after? What is the length of thread on them? Square nuts hmm? Well I think the bolt to nut ratio something like 40:1 Stroud is quite a way off from me. What was in my mind was that if you have any mates going to the Great Dorset Steam Fair first week in Sept, there might be an opportunity. I may not have what you need, but it seems a shame if you need them. I was thinking of weighing them in, all I would want for any coach bolts is their scrap value.

I only have the AESP that covers V8 110 but I imagine it would be the same, 3 alternators are listed. Is your alternator 12v or 24v?

Ah I'm near Salisbury, Wiltshire. Its just that I have a large quantity of mixed coach bolts I purchased from a scrapyard 25 years ago & very likely some would suit your purposes. If you were nearer I was going to invite you to have a rummage.

Where are you?

Best day for what? Wed is best day for a-jumble, then although this is what I have been told, not all the dancing girls are set up until Thursday Saturday is just too crowded although the evening fairground atmosphere might be regarded as best, but it is very crowded there although all showmans engines will be running, other evenings it might just some of them or they pack up earlier. Also getting in will be the worst day for traffic. Sunday is a bit dreary lots of gaps where traders have cleared off. If I was not already there with an exhibit & came for one day, I would choose Thurs or Friday.

I would dismantle the fuel pump & inspect the diaphragms. Very likely you have a fault there & ensure the choke is turned off. I would not attempt to run it knowing you have fuel in the sump. I once discovered I had this when there was an explosion that blew the dipstick 50 ft into the air, lucky there was no other damage!

Actually 13.6 litres. You may have difficulty getting SAE30 in a motor shop. That equates to the original spec to use OMD110. But this became obsolete in military service, so the last Pig Servicing Schedule quotes OMD80 which is SAE 10W/30. I have a poor understanding of the properties of oils, others may be able to advise you better. But given the limited mileage you can cover on the island, it certainly seems very tempting to use what the Army did in the latter days of running these vehicles.

Richard yes swings & roundabouts. I think the new switchboard was a good move & will give reliability with peace of mind. I don't bother with additives my mileage is low. A few people use them on the basis than fuel ain't what it was even at the time this RR bulletin was written. Anyway you can decide later once you've got it running.

Yes it's all a question of time really (no pun intended). I have quite a few 555s here & even a book along the lines of 101 555 circuits which may well have something that is appropriate for flasher timers. But its then a case of translating it into a compact & rugged form that will withstand the life in the Pig. A valid point to make something manly enough to switch bulbs if the LEDs fail for any reason. Just a thought though how robust would a 555 be if some welding was going on?