fv1609

TMP = Training Materiel Park

A job well done, at least can feel confident now about the cooling system & what is in it.

Funny you should say that, looking at this generator, the casing that is the Sky Blue looks rather greeny when you see what looks more like the blue you see in the sky on the heatsink. Don't ask what colour the bluey blue is because I don't know. It should be a heat resisting paint, but COSA H1 only list three paints in that category: Black, Sky Blue & Oxford Blue. Well if Sky Blue looks green, maybe this blue blue, light as it is, is what has been classed as Oxford Blue. Yes I know Oxford Blue doesn't look like that but it ain't Black & the casing is Sky Blue it doesn't leave much left. :-D BTW this is a Generator No.12 not a No.10

Oh crikey that'll take some finding. Oh no, no, not DEB. When I mentioned DEB I had my tongue in my cheeks, what you have is Sky Blue BSC381C 101.

I recently renewed with Premium Choice & was £320 comprehensive for Wolf (£16.5k), Pig (£4k), Shorland (£4k) & Cipher trailer (£1.2k). That excludes any travel to or from place of work.

As a general principle I don't think they should as you need to identify an item correctly from a stores accounting point of view. But most of us would be able to identify it as a No.10 & to the trained eye will be able to identify whether it a Mk 2 or Mk 3 (early, mid or late) by the size of the auxiliary diodes, their position & the general configuration of heatsinks. If you show me a rear shot I will identify yours. (Humorists need not respond:cheesy:) Having said that the ones I have seen have been not just painted & reassembled (Instr No.11), but have received a further coat over the whole generator (Instr No.19). As the MOD plate should be marked I would have thought it should be left unpainted, but the ones I have seen have the MOD & Data plate covered in paint.:-(

The problem is my end. I've found I only get the notifications when I'm on the phone but not when on the PC. The PC has Mailwasher set to delete spam automatically & without me having to see it. It turns out that HMVF is on my black list together with someone who I thought was ignoring me!

Ironically since saying that I,m getting notifications today.

Same happened for me, although the odd one comes through.

17th January 1974: Sold at OSDD (Ordnance Storage & Disposal Depot), Ruddington, Nottinghamshire. Sale No.127 took place on 16/17 January 1974 & it usually was the second (or third) day with the plant & heavy stuff. But I cannot find 43 BM 58 at all, although there were other Martians. I've looked through the next 7 sales but nothing I'm afraid. The average price was about £450 with one at £620 & the lowest as £270 with someone's annotation in the margin "rough".

Wayne the slip ring end (ie where the brushes are) is indeed waterproof & the paint itself acts as an insulator for the diodes etc. Before wetting it in anyway are you sure that the slip ring housing has not been tampered with? If it has been it may no longer be waterproof as it is unlikely a meddler has followed the waterproofing procedures for re-assembly. I would use Gunk, white spirit or brush cleaner to get the greasy muck off then washing up liquid & hot water. Normally repainting is done before assembling it after a repair & that would be black, heat resisting. I suppose you want to paint it Sky Blue again, but black would be nice. It is unusual to see a black one. When someone tells you sorry mate it should be "Duck Egg Blue" you can point out that being painted in H1/8010-99-220-2046 indicates that it has been repaired by REME in accordance with EMER POWER W104/13 Field & Base Repairs Sections 11 & 19 complying with the requirements in EMER WORKSHOPS N251:-D

Jamie just a second thought. I'm assuming that your rad has not been bodged about. When you stand at the front looking at the Pig, the filler cap is on your right & the pressure release valve on your left. That valve is secured by 6 small screws & there is the drain tube off to the left. I once did see a bodge whereby the pressure release valve had been replaced by a car pressurised rad cap!

Jamie it shouldn't be leaking from the filler cap at all. Unlike cars that have a pressurised cap, in the Humber the cap should just be a seal there is a separate pressure relief valve that blows at 10 psi. The valve is at the other end of the top of the radiater & has a drain tube to dribble onto the ground. Was there any sign of over heating? Check you have enough coolant, tighten the belts, fit a better seal on the radiater cap & try again.

Thank you Derek, it's remembering the particular part of a particular document that takes the time. If you like the paraphernalia of Army administration, there are some interesting pages from those REA. I have put some extracts on here: http://www.karkeeweb.com/patterns/1903/1903_fitting_instructions.html#regs1942

Well it covered so many tents there wasn't enough room for detail of its component parts so it was easy to miss what it was from. That info came from a 1946 RAOS that replaced the other 3 types. I have a 1942 REA & no mention of the 160-lb tent at that stage.

JA1551 Roof, outer is part of Tent, 160-lb, JA1549 It was introduced circa 1946 to replace: JA5685 Tent, C.S. Mk 5 JA5774 Tent, R.D. Large JA1839 Tent, R.D. Small See page 3 http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/TENTS2.pdf

Yes as I said your turn light switch that is missing, the proper thing is Switch, turn signal No.2 Mk 1 that is coded LV6/MT4 so is common with some other vehicles of the time. The hexagonal shaft switch I think was used on some Bedfords, they are relatively common, which is probably what you have got. Not a problem with a Mk 2 as very often when the switch was moved down an inch then a chunky plastic knob was used that fitted this shaft. A bit tedious but I think the way ahead is to file flat just two opposing sides of the hexagonal shaft so that the pointy knob will go on. Then on the end of the shaft, file the last 1/4 in so it is circular then tap it to the thread of the retaining nut. I would assume it would BA thread perhaps 2BA from memory?

Wayne when you look at your scrap Switchboard No.1 Mk 1 the left hand pointer knob & screw-in retainer nut are exactly the same items used on your turn light switch that is missing Handle LV6/MT4/CB/5870/75 Nut LV6/MT4/CB/5869/23

Wayne I would discard the fuel filter element. New ones are not that difficult to find, once that is replaced at the subsequent annual service you could opt to wash it out. As you know the magic Domestic Management Code for Humbers is LV9/BOE or in later items 9BOE. But because the filter was common to other vehicles eg Ferret, CVR(T) etc then it had the DMC LV6/MT12 which is for a common fuel system component. The item to look for was LV6MT12/2910-99-807-5754. It is unusual to find any of these nowadays. The DMC was changed as only one class of vehicle uses the filter. The NSN is the same but the item appears as 9CVT /2910-99-807-5754. PS I think you had a filter element from me

Wayne yes it is a good idea, which is why there should already be one associated with the banjo feeding the carb. £9.99 seems rather expensive to me. Don't forget that is only a second line of defence, your main fuel filter is on RHS behind the driver.

What vehicle have you got Andy? There are lots of threads on the subject like this one: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?6498-The-MOT-Question

Somewhere I have the official report for Ex Roman Candle circa 1956. The Fantasians (geographically represented by USSR) form an alliance with the Saturnians (geographically represented by Eire) & their combined forces invade North Devon & march to London. The exercise was to establish whether our forces could hold the three bridges in Hampshire vital for this conquest. I think the result was that we won although one bridge was "destroyed".

That is correct, the FV1609 was actually designated Mk 1. That is unusual as Series 1 Land Rovers were not called Series 1 from the outset. The difference is that 1609 was a run of 20 trials vehicles in the knowledge that something else would follow. Generally the place on the plate for Mk is not stamped, but occasionally does have this stamped. On occasions I have seen this on an uparmoured Pig (what is called Mk2 which should really be MK 3) the owner is not at all intrigued as they feel they have a Mk 2 & that's what it says, not realising that the Mk 2 designation refers to its earlier life when it was what most people regard as a Mk 1.

Wayne, automotive first, fancy bits second. Get the engine going as your priority:D Regarding fancy bits. The gearbox canvas is unique to Pigs/Hornet. It either rots or cracks from getting painted. Never seen NOS or repro. They were re-manufactured in PVC for use with Mk 2, they had popper studs but cover was enlarged to accommodate the 4WD autoeject spring mechanism. I had a couple but now long gone & anyway would look wrong on a Mk 1. Side lockers, if the angle iron is straight & usable, use if it. If it is rotten or rust has got behind & splitting & breaking the welds cut it off. Welding I found was ok to armour, might not be to FVRDE spec but will be good enough to hold lockers on.

Nope, everything but. Judging by many of the shots it was directly above you. The TRB steadies/supports the transfer box on the lower off side to the chassis.