fv1609

EME 4 together with EME 5 was a branch of DDEE 3 (Deputy Director of Equipment Engineering) that contributed to controlled & planned base workshop work in the UK. IS Pack is not as it might seem. It has puzzled me for a while but for far longer Geoff Fletcher who has noted this appear on a significant number of record cards he has handled at Deepcut. The context so far seems to be a role of an operational unit that had special duties in NI. I have never found an official interpretation of the term, nor has it rung any bells with numerous NI vets I asked. The term seems to have a specific meaning on vehicle record cards & does not fit in with IS protection equipment as one might think.

Ian, that was easier knowing what to look for. I've got all those & see the problem in identification. But I also have L 800 which lists the IPC as AC No. 61266, which would give the answer but unfortunately I don't have it.

I hope not :wow:

Alec nice to see it in the flesh. Got any shots of the interior & the axles? Good that you've got most of fittings & nick-nacks. Inside do you have a single roof support strut or double struts behind each seat I wonder? I've just finished welding all the new floor struts in place. Now cleaning the GRP, I've found that paint stripper is quite good for getting rust out of the surface together with grease & general grubbiness. I'm cautiously using a scraper which brings the grot out with I think the outer layer of resin. This leaves the weave slightly exposed, so when dry I will paint it with yacht varnish. In fact I think that was what I did to it 25 years ago! Like you my turret rollers are not good, they are only nylon things. I'll look them up & see who the supplier was. The trouble is a lot of the parts just have a SB&H part number.

I've got a lot of EMER TELS here, printed & fiche. But I'm not up on Clansman equipment, can you give me the full official designation of the I Box, ANR & the particular sets it was used with please.

Yes so that is how it comes, but there would have been a plug-in adaptor that converts it into 11B mode. Apart from mine leaking at that junction, it was bulky, kept rotating & prone to pop off. So you just need to replace it with the 11B termination instead. The only justification to keep it would be if you had a Mk 2 that had been fitted with conventional lubrication nipples on the hubs for rapid filling of oil rather than fiddle with removing the brass oil plugs. Of course you've guessed it some see these nipples as an invitation to inject grease into the hub :-X

Well just don't make a mess on the carpet.

The original ones are still around but there are at least 2 different heights. Some on the steering linkages are so close to other structures that blanking plugs are used instead. Best to use the proper military termination on the lubricator, than change all the original 11B nipples to conform to a modern termination that can't properly mate with them.

Wayne that's a good result. I couldn't actually see the end termination you have. Most of them seem to come with conventional nipple, then the piece with 11B termination plugs into it. Although mine was NOS the rubber seal was failing in the adaptor piece & it leaked from this point. So I did away with the adaptor fitted the 11B fitting straight into the tube end. When you have oil in it always store the end above the level of the oil supply otherwise it will dribble out slowly. The best way to use oil is to fill up an empty grease can. I made the mistake of filling the tank up without this & there was a tiny leak at the base as it is not necessarily an oil proof seal around the edge of the base.

Valid query but old chestnut Wayne, do a search on EMLRA

Simon I think that's the way to go at least to start with. Best not to dress it up too much as that can spoil the turnout of a vehicle. But with time there may be odd fancy bits that you might consider painting differently if you perhaps saw some in-service vehicles & wanted to emulate what you see in the photo.

Simon, white wheel nuts. Bit of an old chestnut, a few recent posts here with a link to an earlier thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?12673-Pig-Project&p=306664#post306664

Since the original post I have since changed my "name". It used to be fv1620 as a mark of respect to a vehicle I had in my care for 14 years. It was sad to see it go & at the time I didn't want to keep reminding myself of the loss. So I changed to fv1609 to indicate my enthusiasm for the FV1609 I now own. (The use of small case letters is simply to avoid having to press the key shift button when logging in!) It is often not realised that the FV1609 is the real Armoured Humber Mk 1 The production Pig commonly referred to as Mk 1 is in fact the real Mk 2, as can be seen from the plate below. The plate above was removed from a scrap Pig that as it happened had later been up-armoured. But the plate pre-dates up-armouring as the Asset Code is not that for an up-armoured Pig & indeed the Asset Code constructed 6-2-3 digits pre-dates the 1967 system when it changed to 4-4 digits.

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/POLcompact.pdf

Sorry to hear that he has done a lot for MVT members not just in recent years as Treasurer but Alan was one of the first people to realise the insurance requirements of MV owners needed to be catered for specifically.

Wayne I know nothing about Champs, OC600 was mentioned for their joints which surprised me. The only OC600 you need worry about is the steering box, it is a compounded oil of 94% mineral oil & 6% rape seed oil. The Tractas in Humbers should be filled with premixed lubricants in the ratio OEP 220 (1 pint) to OX 320 (1/8 pint). Subsequent topping-up to be OEP 220 only.

Wayne I was just looking at the thing you have bought, it has a fairly substantial pull-on termination. It might be worth seeing just how tight a fit it is on the 11B nipples. I bought a pull-on & a push-on from a lorry/aggri supplier but they were a different make & leaked. There may be some variation between makers. So before you get mine as well, try the one that comes with the pump. Although that is pull-on & mine is push-on which may be easier in a tight space. At first I didn't realise I could click on the image to get more images, so yes having a foot rest will help. Just need a big drum of OEP220 now.

This is the military guise of the Andy 806-6896 is not actually the NATO Stock No in that format it is classed as a "non-significant number" but from that one can with confidence construct the NATO Item Identification Number (NIIN) as 99-806-6896 The NATO Supply Classification (NSC) must surely be 4930 Maintenance & repair shop equipment - Lubrication & fuel dispensing equipment giving the NSN of 4930-99-806-6896 This must fall into the old VAOS range of LV6/MT1 - General miscellaneous MT stores in these later COSA times giving a Domestic Management Code of 6MT1 giving the full NSN as 6MT1/4930-99-806-6896 Would have been a lot easier if Mr Basset could have put that on the label at the outset, if he was afraid of using to up too much lettering he could have omitted "NATO STOCK NO." as just a 13-digit number on a military item needs no introduction & says it all! Well Basset Engineering still seem to be going as a defence contractor in Hayle although they appear in none of my British Defence Exhibitors catalogues of the 1970s & 80s. 10 years ago this NSN was linked to Thor Tools, North Shields, Tyne & Wear 0191 2590655 with a part no. BK5000X but I'm not sure if they are still around. The only other country to use this "Lubrication Unit" was New Zealand. So assuming you still want the real thing, a few clues for you to follow up Wayne

Jamie looks like one of the "INS" connectors has come off to knock out both fuel & temp.

6B is a give away that it is RAF as it is the Section prefix for RAF Vocabulary items that includes "aircraft navigation equipment, accessories & unit servicing spares"

Wayne this is your lucky day. I have found these. I have tested the connector on a Type 11B & that is as tight as any of the other connectors I have. The snake bendy thing is nice & stiff. The gun can inject grease or oil, but in limited quantities. There is also a spare snake you can extend it with although one joint is a bit floppy. The other gun is similar but a different make & has a different thread. Anyway special price for you, the whole lot for £10.

The engine seemed to be running cool as well

I think you would lose points for not having the original brass nipples. The money is not really wasted as you can at least get on with the hanky method. When the proper thing appears you can use the modern one for topping up diffs in Land Rovers at your other facility. The hanky idea is clever, expedient & certainly works. Not my idea it came from the previous owner of your Pig at a time when I felt very pleased with myself having just purchased a set of those stupid modern connectors;)

Big hanky first of all Wayne:cry: You could replace all the 11B nipples that's going to cost far more than the proper connection. But it's going about it in the wrong direction really, best just to get the correct termination when one turns up. In the meantime muddle through with the hanky. I have looked for a spare termination for you it was not where I though it should be, but I'll carry on looking.

Well it goes quite well then, even with no fuel in the tank