bigduke6

That seems to be the case Ron, I read something on the internet when someone took over the company he shook it up as it had become quite lax..... I replied to the email and thanked them and received a reply well outside the normal work hours last night. Back to the crank case..........needs some work, the end had completely broken away, reminds me of my old Honda XL 125, when a shaft sheared and split the Crank Case, the joys of motorcycling... lucky at the time I was on top of a big hill only a few minutes from home, so free wheeled back, (I lived in Cumbria then, hence the hill) There isn't much left and like fag paper in parts looks like the inner chain case has worn a lot away. Things are on the up though, won a bid on two sets of crank cases, a few cam shafts, three cylinder heads and several other bits, expected it to go a lot higher than it did, one case set is an early one from contract C9506. Engine numbers start from 41-G3L- 23800- 25049 for that contract, the case set is 41-G3L-23801 so would belong to frame 19401 and census number 4588176 (I think).

After soaking the bearing etc and blowing through with air I must of dislodged some grease or wax from the protective coating and getting some oil through, the inner race is grooved so whatever position the oil holes are they will get oil..... Anyway here is the email I got back which was a quick response, Thank you for your email. However there is no need for the oil holes of the inner substrate to align with the oil holes of the outer raceway of the crankpin. This is because the outer raceway has a pair of internal annulus grooves to ensure that the oil feed is maintained to all four holes on the raceway irrespective of the angular or polar position. I trust that this answers your question and that you can continue to assemble your engine with full confidence. Best Regards Emma Houghton Alpha Bearings Kingsley Street Netherton Dudley West Midlands DY2 0PZ

,My case has suffered the same fate as your G3 one regarding the top threaded hole but only a small bit broken away. Has anyone here used these rods (see link ) plenty on youtube about them. http://www.aluminiumrepair.co.uk

Least of My problems at present Ferg, after cleaning up the outer of the drive side crank case were the bearings sit behind, there was a load of old araldite..... my worst fears were confirmed that the end of the cover had split at some point and hence the araldite etc, I never thought much of it as I was under the impression it was there to make a good seal between this and the inner chain cover, only realised when I was doing a final clean to replace the bearings. I've got some spares, but have seen a few repairs/mods made to this part were some have made a new separate end cover (obvious a weak point if someone has been hammering bearings in) just wonder if anyone has done or known of such repairs ?

As normal when I come to do something, another stumbling block....... anyone here used any of the Alpha Crankpin assemblies ? I cleaned everything up last night to get ready to assemble only to find two of the four oil holes on the pin had not been drilled right through to the centre of the pin ?? so only two will give lubrication. Anyone had the same ?

Electrolysis is the way to go, as long as you clean the item and the anodes every few hours etc the results are excellent, I do mine outside, and in most cases leave overnight. You can achieve better results by placing several anodes around the item. For small items I use Unitor Metal Brite, this is Phosphoric acid based.

Thanks Ferg, After a few calls and a few emails from Ron, located a bottom end, so the ball has started rolling, decided to go for NOS and used (if good) if I can find them, it is tempting from my Engineering point to make and mend, but for what it is the end result will pay dividends. I hope to get there on Sat, I'll be on the train..... so an early start.

Thanks Ron, Much appreciated (as always) think I need to make the journey down south...... a lot of stuff I can produce but the cams I'll have to bite the bullet and I guess thats most of the timing gear......I found an inner race that I can use on the conrod but i'm sure the pin is a one piece...... and there's me thinking at least the engine would be rebuilt in a week.

As its getting warmer managed to start where I left off, Engine was stripped, I did post a thread regarding piston rings etc but prefer to keep all this together, so apart from the rings an a new valve guide needed, I noticed the valve springs were missing the cup and one spacer..... anyway I sourced a new head for the cost of the bits I was missing.....as I plodded on the cams were corroded but the nose was not too bad, eventually splitting the case and the flywheels...... the crank pin is not too bad and could be polished the big end bush is past its sell by date and the rollers seem ok. Few options, Make and fit bush/bearing for the conrod and use the existing roller race, replace rollers if possible ? and skim crank pin. I could buy the bottom crank pin complete with bearing etc but is a bit eye watering at £200 a pop..... Just wonder if anyone has had any success with their own conversion? I've looked at a few needle bearings I could use but would require some work to fit. Just looking a bearing site, can buy an inner race which would only need me to machine part of the original in the conrod.... As for the cams..... the corrosion is quite bad and for what I can see of the tappets but they are tight and no play and the feet are ok, are the cams case hardened or the whole thing ? and anyone ever had them re ground ? Normal bushes etc I can make and will probably make a new one for the timing side of the CC, and renew the rollers, I have some EN 25 steel somewhere............. So with above is it worth visiting Kempton ? I don't have a bottomless pocket, but would like to get the engine in some reasonable order, but were do you stop..... I did manage to source a spare head complete with valves and the missing bits I was after for a very good price Even with all the above and not knowing the condition and what was missing at the start it fired up and run very well, no real obscure noise only the blue smoke..... Some pics below, don't know who had been been at the crankpin before hand.......

Ron, what paint do you use for the barrel and cyl head ?

I know what you mean Ron, its nice to get in the workshop without turning blue.........

Thanks Ron, I couldn't remember the name and lost all the links on the puter.

I'm looking for some piston rings for my Matchless WD G3L, I was expecting a lot worse but everything checks out on the cylinder apart glazed and a few marks etc, everything is within tolerance, but thought a new set of rings won't harm, need + .040 Also any pointers for a complete gasket set ? and possible Valves and guides ?

True, but is a saving grace for some and all is not lost, as for the dealers then its just stock that will probably be more of an investment or they could right it off as a loss...... on their tax return. Some dealers are still selling Old Spec stuff.........

I think the old spec owners and collectors will be OK, if you read into it regarding the sale of such deacts, it sates a country outside the EU........ we will be in 3-5 years, or maybe sooner.

Seen it on ebay today and thought I'd seen it before......

Interesting post Ron and a Nice Bike.

Just wonder if anyone here bought the Welbike that was on ebay and advertised on Milweb? I enquired about it but the engine was a XXA prefix.... with this I give it a miss, it never had any Contract number ID plate either, which I,ve read only the Mk11's had these ?

Just interest Ron or another project looming ?

Thanks Ron, thought I'd ask before rather than later......

Bike is now stripped have kept most bits together until I start on them (so don't have bits everywhere), I'm starting on frame then building it up from there, I have a few bushes etc to make, one question is regarding the studs for securing the battery box and oil tank, are they studs or a complete machined part brazed to the frame?

Thats certainly some project you have....... looking forward to the updates. The book you have ordered is an excellent read and credit to the Authors, the scale of repairs done is a real eye opener when looking at the pictures at the beginning.

Street, I recently sprayed my matchless tank Service Brown, you can see it compared to what was on the bike (think its the second to last pic in the link) http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?54083-WD-Matchless-Chassis-and-Catalogue-No-s/page5

Any pictures of the bike ?

Thanks Ron, I gather your not a "stainless nut and bolt kit" man.