Chris Hall

I believe the paint is called M5 Liquid Vesicant Detection Paint or Gas paint. Whether this was painted on for its intended use or just because it’s yellow we will likely never know.

They are out of stock of many parts. I’m waiting patiently for their new GPW front 1/4 panels which they say aren’t far off now. The only issue I’ve had with their panels is the riser to rear floor fit. Both are JMP but there’s a 5mm gap. I’ve seen people fix this with much cutting and welding but I found 3 small cuts to the top and bottom flange (to be welded and ground flush after) fixed the gap for me.

My box is the early right fill GPW box and I’ve got it in one piece but I really can’t get to grips with the shimming etc. Required to get the slop on the blocking rings correct. I also can’t find who stocks the shims in the UK. shimming the transfer case was piss easy in comparison.

If the legs don’t effect the kids leg room I my just upgrade to the M31C and then could use the M2 or the 1917. I’ve not actually got the cradle for the .30/50, only the cradle for the 1917 which doesn’t need the travel bar. My M31 doesn’t have the legs or the travel bar as it’s not needed. don’t worry, I’ve no intention of putting the M2 on the M31, I just didn’t want to put the C in if it was going to effect where the kids would sit. i did briefly think about having the .50 or the 17 in the back and the A4 on the passenger side glove box but decided that was a bit OTT.

I’ve got the dimensions of the frame brackets so I can make those easy enough. I just wonder how much space the legs of the M31C take up as my 2 kids will be in the back. The M31 with the 1917 will be a rare sight but it doesn’t have the presence of the M2.

How do you find having the M2 on the back? I’ve already got an M2 but I don’t know if I should put a M31C pedestal mount in my jeep or stick with the M31 mount with my M1917. The M2 looks impressive due to the size but the M1917A1 is much scarcer on a vehicle and probably more in keeping with the VEP.

I do like those early battery trays! I found out a few things I didn’t know recently. the VEP GPW appears to have used Slat Grill type footman loops and there should be another stone guard around the fuel tank spot welded to the riser (not the seat one).

I wouldn’t bother with the flux wire no gas stuff, it’s crap and you won’t be happy with using it or the results. the welder I bought came with a 13 amp plug but I got fed up with having to reset the circuit breaker just as I was about to start. I ended up fitting a 16 amp blue plug and using it on my air compressor circuit. Depending on how sensitive your existing 13 amp electrics are, you may find even a 13 amp machine could trip the breaker. when I got my air compressor (16 amp single phase) I got an electrician to connect in a short spur from the fuze box to a socket about 60cm away on the outside of the house. I then made up an extension lead (armoured) and ran this under my block paving to my electric meter box. When I want to use the 16 amp circuit, I open the box, get the plug out and connect it to the socket about 60cm above that. all in cost was about £200 8 years ago and I think it’s saved me getting stressed with tripped CBs every few minutes.

Not done a jeep hinge but helped with a Austin hinge and it took lots of penetrating oil, lots of small opening and closing movements of the hinge to free up part of it and then we used heat and quenching with oil to release the other side of the hinge and then we tapped either end with a drift and hammer until it came out. Lots of fiddley taps and repetitive motions but it came out. The chaps fitted a stainless pin in its place. I wasn’t to sure about fitting a stainless hinge pin as I’ve heard stainless and mild steel can cause friction heat but I suppose it’s not a hinge that constantly in use.

I bought some silicone sealant removed from Yorkshire trading. I wouldn’t say it was a wonder chemical but it did make it easier to remove. It appeared to lift the edges of thick parts and dissolved the smaller parts. I wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a better stronger version available.

I see it now “LUBRICATION CHART”.

What’s the wording under the paint? Looks like BRI.............ORDER

What’s the number? I’ve a VEP, GPW 6008, DOD 18 Mar 42 which is no where near as early as yours must be! The only early battery tray framed GPWs I know of were the factory demonstrators that Ford sent out to each plant at the start of production. They weren’t delivered ( I believe) until March/April. Very interesting if that’s what it is.

Is that a Slat Grill?

Thanks for the link, it doesn’t get a good review. Does it detail how to check and adjust for the correct slop on the blocking rings?

I’ve rebuilt my transfer case and set it up. I’ve also rebuilt my gearbox but I’ll be ****** if I can work out how to set it up with the correct shims etc.

Your rims look in pretty good shape. I’ve got 2 that I just won’t trust so I’ll probably make the best of what I’ve got and buy another repro wheel to go with the one ive already got.

That’s what I would have gone for if they’d been in stock. What do you think of the fit? I wondered how the cut out section would fit as it’s cut and welded rather than formed.

I’ve had to make a new cross member/rear bumper for mine. I wanted to fit a JMP made one but they were out of stock. I bought a universal jeep supplies item but it was made from much thinner gauge steel and was about 3/4 inch to narrow than the original. So I then ended up buying a MDJ item and that was quite badly made and just wouldn’t fit without major cutting and it was to deep leaving a 1/4” gap at the top between rails and top of cross member. I ended up making my own from box section of the correct gauge steel. I cut it across the box section to get 2 L shaped lengths. I then cut in the dip where the towing pintle fits and then welded them together along the length on both sides. Ground down both side welds and temp bolted in place. When I’ve got the body finished I’ll fit the body and drill the mounting holes. I think the work was worth it as it looks 99% original. The only thing it could really do with is some dents to match it in.

Are you fitting false rivets to the battery tray and engine mounts? There’s a chap in the USA (EBay) that does good threaded rivets, the head is the correct form and serrations on the underside of the head to lock in to the hole. You then do up the nut on the other end like a bolt. When I did mine, as the nut went tight, I would tap the head with a hammer and I’d get a few more turns. Eventually when it’s as tight as it can be, the nut shears off leaving a rivet tail behind. I intend to mig weld the top of the river tail and make good.

Is the bumper original? Even battered there’s not many around. Ive been putting some work in to my GPW body these last few weeks, I appear to have less and less to work with once the rot has been cut out!

Ok I don’t have any design software but I knocked up a crap drawing of the casing head to see if anyone can understand my drawing 😂. The casing (body tube) has an OD of 1.5” so the bore of the head is 1.5” with the exception of the very end which accepts the butt. This is a diameter of 1.4”. The recess the butt slips into is 0.245” long with a diameter of 1.585”. does that make any sense?

Have you seen this chap on Gun-star? He’s well known and legit. https://www.gunstar.co.uk/parts-kit-complete-royal-ordnance-factories-sten-submachine-/Deactivated-Guns/1186888 Perhaps you could buy some of the harder parts to make? He sells a kit or individual parts so can be your choice. I’ve bought a spring kit and a few other bits from him and he’s very quick to respond to messages.

No I wouldn’t, it would be easy to custom fit everything but it could end up looking nothing like a correct mk2

It’s not an Israeli copy, those are near identical to the Standard STEN to the point it’s hard to differentiate at times. I think the plans are just easy DIY plans removing some of the more difficult engineering aspects.