Chris Hall

Because it can be a right PITA to unwrap and rewrap the cab with the tarp, I decided to strip the rear frame down first. first up was to remove the track idler stop and track idler. The idler wheel came off with very little effort, even the retainer nut was only hand tight. Unfortunately the Outer idler post nut was a little different. I pulled the split pin but hadn’t a socket or spanner big enough ( 2 1/2”) to remove it. so I picked up a cheap socket off eBay and borrowed a huge torque wrench from work. Well it didn’t go to plan and I bent the torque wrench. It broke at 800NM! So I decided I would try and remove the tension spring instead. I couldn’t undo the tension spring nut as it was solid. All those years in the rain had frozen it up completely. Luckily the track on that side had previously snapped and I realised there was no tension on the spring anyway. So I popped that lot off. they say that “if at first you don’t succeed, get a bigger hammer” or in this case, a bigger wrench. A 2000NM torque wrench had the nut off in seconds. It took 1800NM in the end to get it off. This just leaves the idler post to remove, the post itself is very badly worn so either needs replacing or welding and grinding to size. It maybe could be bushed but I’m not sure if that would work.

So I got it parked up in its storage location and started to get photos and make notes on things missing. The list isn’t actually to long, Winch, headlamp buckets, rear armour etc. The parts that require repair/overhaul is quite extensive though. I decided that the cab should be covered so got a reasonable tarp from screwfix and it’s actually quite good for the price. I decided to remove some of the sharp pointy bits of armour to protect the tarp from being punctured and put pipe lagging foam on those parts I couldn’t remove yet. since this photo was taken I’ve removed all the armour around the engine bay and the ‘fenders’. I did notice I’ve got 2 odd front wheels. One is a scoutcar and early M2 Halftrack wheel and the other a later version. The correct late wheel has a French Michelin 9.00 x 20 combat tyre instead of the correct 8.25 x 20 tyre. These Michelin tyres are solid with no inner tube and are very heavy. I’m not looking forward to taking that off!

So I thought it about time I started a thread on my Halftrack restoration. It will take a long time but it should be steady away. First hurdle was to unload it. You would think that it would be easy but I didn’t know what type of trailer it would be on, or how much it weighed in its non original state. 2 days before it’s delivery the seller told me it would be on a curtain sider so I had to figure out how we would unload it either through the roof hatch or the side. Luckily a mate has a Telehandler and my storage owner also had one so between them, we guessed it should work.

These are the style we have, bloody hate them. I think they want to chop my fingers off every time I use them.

That would be great as I’m missing all the internal fittings.

Before I go overseas to Europe, has anyone got any leads on the following for sale in the UK M45 Maxon Quad Mount (Trailer not important as it’s to fit the Halftrack bed) Can get one from Jeepest if need be. M45 Maxon risers (There was a restored mount on trailer on milweb that came with the Halftrack risers, I missed it). Recon Whites 160AX engine (can get a French recon unit from BAIV or sindorf if required). Boggie wheels Near new to new track. Please pm me if you have something or know someone who has. TIA

I’ve been toying with the idea and I’ve seen plenty of YouTube vids on using one. You know when you see something and you think “that looks easy” and you then think “is it to easy”? And then the next thing you think is “I’m sure I can f*** it up some how”.

Let bubba loose on that one to save ours (although it looks like he’s made a start with the winch and those wheels.

I’ve had a tracker before. It was very good. Had a little issue though, but nothing bad. I wrote the car off and I was in a bad way. They rang my dad when they couldn’t contact me to say there was abnormal activity (being recovered). They didn’t believe him when he told them so I had to speak to them in my distressed state. i also had contact from them when 2 cars parked so close to the car I couldn’t get in. I let the handbrake off and rolled it back until I could get in. Because the key wasn’t in the car, they thought it was being lifted so rang me instantly. A couple of security questions answered and all was well. I was very happy at the speed they responded. No problem with checking.

If you google car tracker there are dozens of different products available that do similar things. You just need to work out which suits your needs the best.

Originally they were an oil bath chain case but as said, they just leak and I never got a good seal. Some have changed to a dry clutch and sealed chain but this brings its own issues. if you do go for a sealed chain, they are slightly wider so you need to ensure there is space between the chain and the case or else you will soon ware a groove in it. You can often see these grooves and now you know why. You may even need to add spacers/shims or remove metal from original spacers to obtain enough clearance. Probably worth the effort in the long run, especially if you intend to use it regularly.

There’s been lots and lots of interest but nothing firm so prices updated

My mate hires out Horseboxes (and his business is booming) and he’s got a little box in each vehicle. It’s not wired in at all and just has a AA battery in it. He does recharge the battery every time it’s rented so not sure how long it lasts. But it’s brilliant, connects to his phone using an App, can locate in seconds, gives him speed, g forces etc. and gives him a record for future use should he have issues from the Police. It’s small enough to be hidden anywhere and isn’t as expensive as a monitored tracker obviously but worth it.

Imposters maybe but they’re an interesting design.

I should start a thread really. But compared to some of the projects here I.e. the WW1 trucks, it will be a doddle.

I think that jubilee clip is modern, have you found some nice marked bolt heads? ive just taken my halftrack fenders off and found them TR marked.

Hopefully that thick plate has protected the frame underneath. My frame had similar on the other side under the battery tray. It appears the battery had leaked acid over the frame and eaten it. Someone then welded plate over the top after the frame failed but didn’t bother to realign it. When I cut the plate off there was a misalignment of about 1/2” between the 2 half. This had put a twist on the leaf spring and the front hanger was really badly worn. fortunately the rest of the frame was exceptional so I made a new front horn and fitted a new battery tray and it’s as good as new.

Excellent work from Jan again. The Hitchcock versions aren’t anywhere near as accurate or the quality of those.

An update, I hadn’t realised serial 181 was an EU spec so have dropped the price. Also listed serial 185, both 182 and 185 are Uk old spec.

It’s always worth popping it on eBay. A few years ago I replaced a really cheap looking vintage plastic damper knob off my old Enfield WD/CO and through it in the bin (literally from about 10 foot away). I fitted the £30 NOS knob and was chuffed to have “fixed” this issue. About a week later I saw this know in the bin and thought I’d pop it on eBay. To my surprise it got a bid, then another, and then messages wanting to ‘buy it now’. It sold for something like £280 to a guy in Malaysia. He backed out the next day with a lame excuse and I offered it to the next highest bidder. He asked for more photos and subsequently purchased it. It turned out to be very rare and from a 1938 Triumph Tiger (if I remember correctly). i learnt not to throw stuff out from that, well not to until I’d confirmed it as junk. that again paid off when I removed a modern looking push button switch off my Jeep. It turns out after purchasing my Halftrack that it’s the starter button for said vehicle. So I now have a good replacement starter switch.

Yes pedals out, transmission plate off, wiring disconnected/removed, steering wheel and or shaft/box removed. Fuel lines if still connected, accelerator link etc. etc. sounds a lot but it’s pretty straight forward.

I bought my first in 1986 I think. It didn’t have a deac cert, it came with a Proof House certificate stating it could not be proofed/beyond proof. I still have it, it’s one of those things I don’t think I’ll sell as I was a kid and saved up all my pocket money to buy. I think it cost the princely some of £45!

I lifted my body off on my own. With everything stripped from the body except the rear foot rests and some brackets in the engine bay. I used my engine crane (cheaply clarke 1 ton hydraulic job) on max extension from the rear. Put an old carpet over the rear panel, attached ratchet straps from each rear foot rest and the 2 front gusset brackets to the hook. I then used the ratchet to adjust the length to correct for balance and then lifted it off the frame. I could then use a combination of rolling the chassis and crane to move the body away. It’s actually not heavy and I stored it upright on the rear panel (secured to a garage rafter.

That’s only the stuff I’m clearing out.

Having a clearout, these have been sat in the attic for a while and the wife wants more storage and my son wants to put his Hornby Track matt up there so having to make some space. One of the ZBs is EU spec, the rest are UK spec. sensible offers considered. Early 30-06 FN ‘D’ BAR Ser. No. 1437 £650 Italian BREDA M37 HMG Ser. No. 948 on tripod, with box of ammo trays £1200 1938 Enf Bren Mk1 Kings Crown DD Ser. No. A3695 (Non matching but Correct 1938 Spec, early scalop lower, Mk1 waisted barrel nut, adjustable bipod, long cone flash hider etc) £1100 1940 Enf Bren Mk1 Kings Crown DD Ser. No. C9186 Original Matching £1000 1940 Enf Bren Mk1 DD 1st Stage Intermediate Ser. No. D5826 Original Matching £1000 1942 Enf Bren MK1 Ser. No. V1662 Original All Matching, all Mk1, very good condition (Not FTRd) £750 1940 Inglis Bren Mk1 DD Ser. No. M242 (rare very early Inglis, 242nd ((7th oldest known in existence)) part of 1st contract as is the pattern room collection example No. M107) £1000 Very rare original SKN Bren, Ser. No. SKN2442 (1 of 17 known in the UK) £1200 Very rare 1937 Bren ZGB33 No.185 (1 of 80 ordered by the War Department in 1936) £1200 Sequential 1937 Very rare Bren ZGB33 No.181 (1 of 80 ordered by the War Department in 1936) £850 Sequential 1937 Very rare Bren ZGB33 No.182 (1 of 80 ordered by the War Department in 1936) £1200 Very rare and early 1928 Enfield Mk1 Revolver Ser. No. 52 (52nd made, No. 42 and 52 are the only pre-production guns known to be in private hands) £600