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Everything posted by attleej

  1. Dear All, Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a Scammell EKA recovery vehicle? I am particularly interested in the front and rear lights. John
  2. Dear All, I have some tales of woe regarding the Meteor M120 engine fitted to the Conqueror ARV. I had concluded that the plugs were fouling with oil due to failure of the inlet valve oil seals which I have discussed in an earlier post. A problem has been to hold the inlet valve closed whilst the springs are compressed. Help from the Forum has been invaluable. It was decided to take the engine out of the hull for reasons of improved engineering hygiene. Once the special tool was made, changing the inlet valve oil seals was straight forward although I am not convinced that they were the problem going by their condition and position. The top of the valve stem only had about 4 thou wobble. The first big problem was that the camshaft was very badly pitted on some of its rubbing surfaces on the cams. This had taken out 17 rockers/ followers. The valve clearances had opened up to 35 thou. Not too much of a problem. I bought two new camshafts and the rockers came from a scrap MkIVB engine. Then I touched one of the cylinder head /block studs. It was loose! Worse still the stud was sheared. Apparently this is a common problem with the Merlins and Meteors. Ok so I needed to lift of the cylinder head block assy. To do this I made an engine turning frame and special lifting tool to lift the block dead square and vertical. I have made a special tool to drill out the sheared stud accurately. So some problems but still manageable. Then I felt the big end bearings. Unfortunately there was 10 thou in and down movement in the big ends and the mains have problems as well. Fortunately the crank looks OK. There does not appear to be any white metal on the shells! The pistons and liners are great as well. Another problem was that the sump was full of a horrible gelatinous gulutinous muck. This was despite having changed the oil some time ago. I started with the simple job of valve oils seals but now have the engine completely in bits! However, we could not keep running the engine with these known faults as it would certainly have led toa total failure in due course. I wonder whether when the oil sump got contaminated with E5 petrol, that allowed the white metal bearings on the crank to be attacked by the ethanol. SOME LESSONS & TIPS FOR CONQ / CENT The oil sumps needs to come out and be cleaned in case it is full of sludge. In service I expect that they would fit a new engine without cleaning the sump. This would only be done at base overhaul. If you take charge of a meteor, take off the rocker covers and check the condition of the cam shaft. It is the first component to start rusting and the consequences are serious. Check that the corner studs are not sheared. Just check the nuts are secure. Unfortunately the Conq is not fitted with an oil pressure gauge. If it had one, surely it would have revealed that all was not well with the bottom end. The good news is that I am confident that I can get the engine back into good condition. It will just be a little bit more involved than I thought! John
  3. attleej


    The EMER for the Gun tank say 810 BHP at 2800 RPM and 1580 FtLbs torque at 2000 RPM. It is interesting that a Meteor has quite a lot of grunt at idling. The Conqueror ARV will neutral steer with the engine idling. The REME museum's Cent ARV has rubber pads on track and so will generally require a touch of throttle to neutral on tarmac. The cylinder heads on the M120 and the Meteorite are very different from a IVB with its more direct Merlin ancestry. As for he exhaust ports, they are different but I have no idea if they are better or not. John
  4. attleej


    Dear All, Here are some photos of the Conqueror ARV: These were running around Slab Common a few years ago This was doing work on the rear spade at Bordon in the museum. The frame in front is the Antar's winch / fifth wheel sub-frame, This was testing the winch. I have never seen a photo of a Conqueror's spade embedded into the ground. This arrangement will resist a pull of 135 tons. This is the engine when I thought that all I had to do was replace some inlet valve oil seals. This shows rust damage due to not running the engine. This is a look into the ECU box that controls the electronic fuel injection. It controls 24 Rover V8 injectors. There have been several iterations of this ECU. This is the rig for lifting the cylinder block off the pistons and crank case. The long studs attached to the cylinder head ensure that the block is lifted up square. The engine is rotated and fixed 30 degrees from horizontal to allow for a vertical lift. When I found that the crank had to come out I then had to make a rig to rotate the engine 360 degrees. LOL. Nearly off! Two of the end, or corner, studs were broken off. The plan is to drill and tap the remains of the stud. The drill jig is ensuring that the stud is drilled absolutely central and vertical. I now have to strip down a scrap IVB to get a better bottom end. Unfortunately I will not be able to start this work until December.
  5. attleej

    B81/8B2 Engine distributor required

    Bill, If you did not want to use screened AFV / aircraft sparking plugs you could use a military distributor and take the ordinary leads out of the distributor cap. It may be that you want the engine to look completely like a civvy B81 which we would all understand. The Dennis F8 fire appliance had a B80 or B81 engine. (I don't know which) But it might have had a civvy type distributor, so the fire engine community may be able to help. If you wanted best performance, reliability and efficiency, go electronic! However, you might have originality and appearance issues. There are several specialists in this area. Jolly Engineering is often mentioned on this forum. If you wanted to chat about the problem my mobile is 07528 263 926 John
  6. attleej

    Defence Service Eye Spacing

    Dear All, You cannot make a better claim than "I designed it"! However, I don't think that memory is serving David very well. IMHO the last British heavy military vehicle not to fitted with Defence Eyes were the Leyland Martian and the AEC Militant Mk 1 and II. In the case of the latter it had lifting eyes only. If you tried to tow or winch on them they simply tore away because the fasteners taking the load were simply too few and to small. In the case of the Foden 16 tonne 8 X 4 and 6 X 6 range, they would simply not pass the recovery assessment tests at FVRDE Chertsey if they were not fitted with Defence Eyes. How would you recover a loaded 8 wheel tanker if you could not use holleybones connected to the Defence Eyes. The design and tolerances of the range of Defence Eyes is carefully arranged so that it is easy to connect up a tow, esp with the Holleybone system. An oddity is the Bedford TM 8 tonne. The largest shackle that will fit in its eyes is a 6 ton bow shackle. Thus the largest winch pull that can be applied is 12 tons. However, it is easy get an estimated pull (EP) of much more than that. The eyes should have been the next size up to take the 20 ton bow as in the case of the 14 tonne 6 X 6 Bedford TM. I hope that someone can come up with the STANAG of Def Stan. I do have a catalogue of recovery equipment for ref. John
  7. attleej

    Power steering

    Dave, Had a Diamond T model 981 with a Leyland Albion 900 diesel engine. I think that there are three options. 1. Overhaul the king pins and make sure that everything is perfect especially any thrust bearings that take the weight. Make sure that any weight or ballast in the ballast box is positioned so that it is al least neutral and not imposing any more weight on front axle. In 240 Sqn when I was a a young soldier if we on ly had two pallets of simulated ammo to carry we put them against the REAR tailgate. Who needs power steering! 2. All the advice above about power steer rams is good. However, the unit must come from a heavy vehicle and not an S type Bedford. One off a MkIII Militant or the same unit would be good. Contemporary sales literature can be helpful. You will obviously have to be careful about steering travel. This would be a good option as it would all look the same but be a bit easier to drive. 3. Fit a modern integral power steering from a modern vehicle.. There is a snag and that is that you will not be able to steer it at all if the engine stops turning. You would be able to 'dead steer' and the steering would be much more precise. John
  8. Tamber, You have tried as hard as you can to recover the one that you have. I have got on that works if you would like to have it. John.
  9. attleej


    Dear All, I have been diverted onto other tasks but hope to get back onto the Conq engine next week. I will see if I can get the crankshaft and bearings out of the scrap and very seized IVB engine. Rick, All I wanted to do was the inlet valve oil seals! However, it is very interesting work, especially making the necessary special tools. It can take 3 hours to make a tool and then 3 minutes to use it. The engine has got to be put back together with all faults rectified. I could not live with myself if I did not get the job done. My hope is to have it ground running by Christmas. On the other hand if the economics staked up it might enable me to get the Conq running again sooner which would enable me, when at Lyneham, to address matters such as the track slack adjusters. (Why a proper tankie has never taken the mick out of me on that account I know not!). Could you PM me further details! Chris, The original fuel injection pump was mechanical and it would indeed have been the seals that let the fuel into the engine oil sump. With hindsight, it might have been easier to develop the necessary special tools and test equipment to overhaul the pump. However, the modern electronic fuel injection system has such huge advantages that I have persisted with it. Particular advantages are starting, cold running and fuel efficiency. Unfortunately, I cannot download the pics from my camera because I have lost the USB lead and my new laptop won't take the SD card. John
  10. attleej

    leyland drops gearbox problems

    Max, I have the SEME (REME) precis on the ZF box fitted to the DROPS. H L Smith Transmissions know all about them. We do need to know the nature of the problem!. In service, the have done pretty well.. John
  11. Oh and the Recovery equipment is probably Reynolds BOUGHTON. Slewing crane. 15 to 20 ton winch.
  12. Dear All, That is absolutely lovely. I would guess that it was built in early 1980's. It seems to have a "W" registration. Most of these were built for military export and I know that the Iraqi army had some. I saw some being built at Scammells in about 1983 or 84. Probably 14 litre Cummins engine, 15 speed fuller gear box, hopefully 16.5 ton Contractor axles and probably a GKN Kirkstall front drive axle. The LAD cab is a bit pokey which is why I made my Contractor's cab a crew cab. Where is it? John
  13. One more point. There are two ways of hurting a Roller. The first is to pull up at full power up a hill, then pull into a lay-by and stop the engine immediately. The other is to over rev the engine. Max RPM is 2200. I never let a 12 litre Roller or a14 litre Cummins exceed that. I would take all necessary steps (political code for war) to slow the engine down from 2300 RPM. On heavy haulage and tank transporters it is very easy for the load to push the vehicle and over rev the engine. John
  14. Jordi, I love a Roller! However, my Scammell Contractor has a Cummins in it and the price of spares is becoming extortionate. £230 for fan belt idler bearing. Fortunately I was able to rebuild it. On the Roller, if it has not got a turbo charger, it is a 220 (BHP). Data plate is on rear left hand side, just below air intake manifold. Points to watch are: Fuel lift pump but an FIP specialist should be able to fix if you cannot get a new one. If it gives you any sort of trouble, get it fixed because it will let you down big time one day. You might find it starts to struggle to pull fuel up from a nearly empty tank. Fan belts need to be a matched set with all the same numbers and from the same batch. Change the belts NOW but keep the old belts on the vehicle as a back up. A Roller will start easily without revving it up. Wait until oil pressure is up before increasing revs after initial start. RELIABILITY For preserved use a Roller should just keep going. PARTS John 1950 is right parts are not so easy as they are not being used commercially anymore. The engine used in the Scammell and Foden DROPS is a bit later and slightly different to a Mk III Eagle. The good news is that there is not much of an export market for a Roller so a whole engine should not be too dear. Fuel and oil filters should not be a problem. REPAIRABILITY I find the Roller easy to work on. ANTIFREEZE You must run it with at least 25%, or better 33%, antifreeze or you will damage the wet cylinder liners with cavitation corrosion. You can use a corrosion inhibitor in the summer of the tropics. For UK, use antifreeze! John
  15. Dear All, Even the E5 bio petrol caused serious problems with the REME museum's Conqueror ARV. I made up a fuel manifold to supply each of the 24 electronic fuel injectors. I used 15mm copper pipe and soft soldered on a compression fitting to supply each injector. In terms of fuel leaks it worked fine for some time. Then suddenly it was spewing petrol everywhere! The bio fuel had attacked the soft soldered joints. Even though the joints had plenty of cross sectional area of solder, they still failed. The new system that I have made has no soft soldered joints. This suggests that many vehicles will need a completely new fuel system with no soft soldered joints anywhere. I will shortly be posting tales of woe about Meteor tank engines and petrol contamination of the sump and the possible effect on the white metal of the crankshaft bearings. I suspect that the reason why Government has not moved faster to E10 is more to do with issues concerning the economics of supply and possible adverse effects there rather than the effect on old vehicles. I think that E10 will be ubiquitous in due course whatever problems it causes to older vehicles. The problems for our vehicles are manageable provided one is not too worries about originality. The real problems will be for those with later vehicles (especially cars) with sophisticated fuel systems which are not tolerant of E10. I expect that the response from classic car enthusiasts will reflect this. John
  16. My guess, and it is only a guess, is that it would have been supplied in Deep Bronze Green gloss. In the UK based TA we stayed DBG gloss and then at some time changed to IRR (Infra Red Reflecting) with non IRR black disruption camo. I don't know what rules BAOR adhered to. At some point, and I can't remember when, in UK we stopped using the lovely 'Div Signs' and went for something much more discrete. For 240 Sqn in Barnet it was "Lond 225". When I started at Barnet in about 1975 we had two div signs. One was the yellow and blue RCT sign with "240 Tk Tptr Sqn" on the top. The other was the London District sign which was a dagger and a castle. I don't know whether they did the same in BAOR. If they did, it would have had a REME div sign with something like "38 Engr Wksp" on the top. The other sign would indicate which formation, ie division the unit belonged to. The round yellow bridge classification plate would probably be 21, I am sure that other will be able to help and correct any errors on my part. John
  17. Sam, Give us a clue! what is the vehicle? John
  18. Dear All, I think that the military B series starter motor has a thermal cut out inside it.. If it cuts out prematurely it may give the symptoms described. It gave me a lot of problems with my Leyland Martian recovery in the TA. Fortunately it was dead easy to start on the handle which I had to do frequently. It was only later that I learnt about the thermal cut out. In my opinion, a thermal cut out on a military vehicle is criminal. Firstly, because it could fail or cut out prematurely when the engine would in fact start straight away if the starter would only work. Secondly, in emergency it may be desirable to move the vehicle just a few feet using the starter even at the risk, and only a risk, of burning out the starter. Andy is right. there is nothing special about these starters. A competent, old school, vehicle electrician / engineer should easily be able to fix any problems. It should be still be possible to pick up a s/h but serviceable 24 civvy starter for spare parts. I would definitely ask for the thermal cut out to be disabled. John
  19. attleej

    Thornycroft Big Ben

    Dear All, Since the engine is fed by an oil bath air filter it may still be quite good. It would use quite a lot of petrol to wear it out! Does it still turn over easily? Has it got six even compressions? I would only give up on it if it has been run for a while and still does not have even compressions My comment is that large petrol engines can benefit hugely from retro fitting electronic fuel injection (EFI) and there are several 'DIY' systems available now. I am working on a system for the REME museum's Conqueror ARV. The reduction in fuel consumption is noticeable between the Conqueror and the Centurion. I hope to be able to report to the forum results from the latest iteration. The carburettor system on a big engine is very crude. However, the designer will have been very careful to ensure that the engine always runs a little bit rich in order to eliminate the risk of burning out the pistons. EFI can ensure that the mixture is always correct and optimal. EFI normally has Cranking Enrichment, After Start Enrichment, and Cold Start enrichment so starting and cold running is much better. The Meteor in the Conqueror always starts directly after about three revolutions if it is going to start at all. It is also possible to retrofit EFI quite discretely. Once I have perfected the system for the Conqueror I will share all that I have learned on this and other forums. I will be very happy to share what I have found out and provide advice on a pro bono basis. John
  20. Dear All, The so called Jaguar J60 engine fitted to the Conqueror is really a 4.2 litre car engine with automatic gear-box. It has J60 ignition and inlet manifolds. I did not think it would be easy to fit the FV 24 volt starter (it is not) so I left it on 12 Volt starting and used the 12 Volt system for the main engine EFI system. I found the usual dual voltage problems! Therefore the tank will now be all 24 volt. I would like to keep the 12Volt starter, use 24 Volts but keep the current down by means of a very heavy duty resistor. I could either use some proper heavy gauge resistance wire or use steel by cutting out a 'tortuous path' in a sheet of 1.5 mm steel. Alternatively I could try just using another starter motor field wing in circuit. Probably one for Clive to advise on! Does anyone have a figure for the current going through a starter on an Jag engine? If so I could calculate the required length of 1.5 x 10 mm steel strip (equivalent of) to give the desired resistance. John
  21. Dear All, I need to change the inlet valve oil seals (Pt No 3 RR EM5114) on the REME Museum's Conqueror ARV. The EMER Power S544/1 Pt 1 lists the valve holding tool LV3/ RR Z2997. Unfortunately I do not have one! There is a photo of it in use (it fits into spark plug hole) but no indication as to how it works. I can easily make one if I could see how it works and I would rather not have to re-invent the wheel! Does anyone have one of these tools or knows anyone who has one. Even a photo of the business end would be useful. Ideal would be a sketch with dimensions. If I can change the oil seals I am hoping that the plugs will not come out wet with oil. John
  22. attleej


    Dear All, I have now got the engine out and at my workshop. I am now considering the using the compressed air trick to change the inlet valve oil seals (now in stock). The worry about the comp air trick is dropping the valve down the cylinder. With the engine out it is easy to see how I could lock the engine at TDC for the cylinder in question. In that position, I don't think that the valve could actually fall right out of the valve guide. I could also engineer a high reliability air supply. Does anyone know for sure if the valve would not be able to fall out if the piston was at TDC? John
  23. attleej

    JAGUAR STARTER, 12 / 24 V, One for Clive?

    Dear All, Thank you for your input it is much appreciated. The problem with the J60 24 volt starter is that it is an ordinary 4.2 litre XK engine and not a J60. I don't think that it is straight forward to fit the J60 starter. "Clive" is Field Marshall Clive Elliot our Chief Electrical Engineer. I am not too worried about the starter throw in solenoid as it will only be overcurrent for a moment until the starter starts turning the engine. In other words, it will not have time to overheat. The external starter sol / relay is already 24 Volts. The positive temp co-efficient of a steel resistor could be beneficial as if the resistance was selected by experimentation the current through the starter would be reduced if the steel resistor got hot. However, what I have done is to order (quite cheaply) 2 metres of 2 mm Manganin resistor wire. I need a resistance of between 0.12 and 0.04 ohms. By chance the resistance of 2 mm, 12 AWG Manganin wire is 0.04 ohms per foot. With a bit of experimentation I should be able stop 24 volts from sending the starter into orbit. I will let you know how I get on with it. John
  24. Dear All, The J60 fitted to the REME museum's Conqueror ARV is poor at starting from cold but is fine in other respects. The position of the cold start lever on the carb has no effect. I have only managed to start it in the past by pumping the accelerator. When I strip the carb is there anything to watch for in respect of this fault? I will obviously give it a good blow out and check any available jets. Are there any diaphragms etc that I could change? John
  25. attleej

    JAGUAR J60 CARB, cold start

    Dear Terry and Diana, Thank you for your help. All I have for an air filter is an after market gauze cone for a car. Thus probably not enough suction from the air filter. Since the engine runs for only short periods it is not worth fitting an oil bath. I could plumb it into one of the main engine air filters (and might do so) but that would not solve the suction problem. Does Diana know what material I should look for on Flea bay? It would be quite good to have some available for doing fuel pump diaphragms as well. John