john fox Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 (edited) In the learned book :bow: it says to jack up wheel, drain hub, remove hub cap and annulus before adjusting brakes on Ferret - Instead I assume that, if both wheels on a side are lifted off the ground, then the effect is the same, ie the wheel being adjusted can be rotated, albeit that in this latter case the other wheel will turn as well. however, is there some other special reason why you have to do it per the book, eg. is there less transmission drag meaning it's more accurate to adjust the brakes the book way working only on a single wheel and without the extra drag of the second wheel turning as well? Edited June 8, 2009 by john fox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Should work if you jack up both wheels at once. Accuracy doesn't really come into it, i would say it's more of a matter of feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 So lots of Ferret owners on the board all busy claiming MOT exemption :shocked: but no one knows how to adjust the brakes - apart from Vince (and he's good but not an owner!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 (edited) John, I have only ever done mine on axle stands, never taken the hubs apart. I usually get it up in the air with all 4 wheels off for servicing as it makes the job much easier. I think you're correct in saying that taking the hubs apart is the only way to make sure you are doing each brake individually, without the effects of the other wheel, but we have never had a problem. Chris Edited June 12, 2009 by sirhc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 thanks Chris (and Vince) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84KB11 Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 Have not had my ferret for years, but when I did I used to do the brakes the same way as Chris, whole vehicle up on axle stands for servicing. Never had any issues doing them this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Effin Ind. Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Hi John, The book is the way to go in most cases. These books/manuals were written for the military with all the tools, men and time available. Chris and others have found a way to bypass the "correct method" and using axle stands to adjust the brakes works fine. Take care with axle stands, large wood blocks make handy supports. Jack the entire vehicle and release the handbrake (there is a reason). Adjust the shoes via the rear braking plate by turning the adjuster bolts as shown in the manuals while spinning the wheel to gauge drag. Also you should adjust the handbrake cables if needed after you have finished all 4 wheels. Once your brakes are set up you should not need to touch them for years, apart from checking/changing fluid levels. Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 thanks guys actually I've been adjusting the brakes for years using the jack up one side method, but as I had to do the job on someone else's vehicle the other day, I thought I would re acquaint myself with the manual only to discover I'd been doing it wrong all this time :coffee: I was just wondering if by not following the "approved" method I'd actually done something badly wrong or whether it was simply a matter of different approaches to the same issue. As opinion does not suggest a good, mechanically advantageous, explanation for the book method, I do not propose to strip hubs etc and will continue with the jack up method and doing it by feel thanks again all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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