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NATO 6 way Switch Light Switch (PRC5410) jumper lead

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Apologies but I know a wiring guru on this site will be able to double check my thinking. I have a fault with the live on my NATO 6 Way Switch which stops the normal headlights, sidelights on my defender from coming on. As soon as I turn the switch from "off" to headlight, sidelights or convoy the circuit cuts out and all the lights including indicators stop working. I have worked through the problem having taken the switch apart and it is now back together, the issue is the brown live terminal which is cracked. Whilst I work out how to repair the terminal and looking at the wiring diagram,  as a temporary fix, I believe I can jump between the Brown live and the Brown and white connector to allow the normal lights to work via the switch. Before I do that I thought I might just check with you to confirm, not really keen on burning out the loom as I note their is a fair amount of current running through the live wires on this switch, Any help gratefully received. I have added some images below and indicated in red what I am looking to connect. Many thanks 

Nato Switch Live Bridge 1.JPG

Nato Switch Live Bridge.JPG

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Yes I think you are on the right track. If Brown is the permanent unswitched supply but is not getting into the switch contacts then by picking up from Brown/White (the ignition switched supply that feeds the fuse bank) should I would have thought give you lights albeit only with the ignition on.

Well done on getting the switch back together again with all those little springs & triangular contacts!

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Perfect thank you, appreciate the quick response. You are right the switch was a little tricky, interesting arrangement for the contact mechanism, luckily it stayed in place long enough to close the lid, no idea what it looks like inside now, but it works 

Edited by Steve A
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i don't think your 6-way switch is a  PRC5410 (Defender)  , ISTR they have  1/4" Lucar blades - that switch is probably a Series that had screw -tag terminals (as S3)  , also there are indications it is a S2A 'keyswitch type' ,  the wiring is modified with these tags & insulation sleeve. IIRC the switch internal/external tracks are same regardless of model.  IIRC the early S2A keys-barrel witch also had 1/4" Lucars.

You could do a repair using Araldite epoxy (original slow set) - however you are trusting to luck.

If you find  www. Land-Rover-Lightweight website , wiring diagrams , find the IR diagram - to right hand side you will find a 'truth-table' to check for correct operation , using terminal numbers and a AVO / test lamp.

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