M35a2 Reo Lights

[Biggles633]

Has anyone converted the original sealed elemnet units to conventional style head lights which use bulbs?

Ive heard that the 24v landrover ones are suitable?

[Christian F.]

I posted this relply in another thread on the same subject in electrics: 

Hi. I have changed to standard 7" headlamps with normal bulbs. No problem as they are equal to sealed beam in Watt. Remember, if you change to H4 halogen bulbs (70 watt), you may gaet a problem with the thermal fuse in the light switch. So if you go for those H4, you should fit a relay and fuse the power to the bulbs on a seperate lead. Use the original light leas to activate the light relay. experience shows you get a "black out" while driving at night - scary on a country lane. 🙂

[Christian F.]

If you install LED lights there should be no problem with too much current for the thermal fuse in the light switch. 

[Biggles633]

What relays and fuse rating did you use?

 

[Christian F.]

I used 2 universal 24 volt 20 Amp. relays one for each circuit (high / low beam). That way it was easy and cheap to install. 

I placed the relays by the lights using the original leads (high / low) to the lights as "activator" leads to the relays. You need to choose which light you want to use as the source, and then use new leads to both headlights high / low beam. (if you don't want to cut the original leads) 

The fuse used is placed in the new power lead that goes to the relays (supply to the actual bulbs).  The normal current used when the lights are on high beam will be the highest  When you use H4 70/75 watt bulbs. the current will be : (2x75) / 24 = 6,25 Amp. But you need a bigger fuse than that to ensure constant supply.  I used 15 Amp fuse in a 2,5mm# tincoated lead (remember lead has to be able to support a bigger current than the fuse). Its a bit "oversize" but I did not want to use a flimsy 1mm# that actually could do the job and I did not have any 1,5 mm#. 
This ensures supply and still protects against short circuit of the installation, as your light switch thermal relay now is no longer connected in the current going to the the actual bulbs, but it will protect against short circuit in the "activator" leads (the original leads to the high / low beam)

All this can seem a bit confuseing (sorry about the punn) I will try to draw a simple curcuit diagram that you can follow if needed. 

NB. the installation also protects the contacts in the lightswitch - main and high/low foot switch - against the bigger current and arcing when lights are switched on/off. 

[Biggles633]

If you could draw a diagram that would help. 

Where did you take the power supply for the lights from?

[Christian F.]

Here is a simple diagram.

 

 

 

 

[Biggles633]

thank you.