Christian F.

Lookin to buy following parts for Fiat Campagnola AR59. Blackout drive light for left front wing. Windscreen hold down latches on hood - for when windscreen is folded down. Universal joints for RH drive shaft or complete shaft. Pioneer tools for rear of vehicle. Also any contacts to AR59 parts suppliers.

...on that subject, I saw this somewhere.....

I am full favor of supporting smaller shows and I hope they grow to be "THE SHOW". Comeing from the continent, if you are going to fork out a lot of money to take a vehicle for a long distance, it has to be for a longer duration than 2 days. I guess same applies to traders. 5 day shows also gives flexability for people to participate for shorter period that suits them. No doubt W&P trust has been lost by many. I for one will be very sceptical and read all small print in case they decide to try and retify 2022 failure and make W&P great again .... 😉

I am sure someone will organise a new 5 day military show again. Maybe a new name, maybe a new venue. The original show was too good to miss for exhibitors, stallholders and guests alike. It is hard to get people to part with their money, but so long as you get value for money, all parties will attend. The above sounds as if the W&P 2023 show has been put to rest for ever, but reading these pages suggests, that the current organisers have made a mess of it and not handled the situation to top marks. County fairs and steam rallies etc. are good places to show military vehicles locally, but an international military show is exactly that and therefore has to be big to be "international" or else "international" won't come. Back to basics ?

Other and smaller shows are great. Some will grow into larger shows, some can/will not grow simply because the site is not big enough or the organisers do not have/do not want the capability to organise a big show. W&P was a big and well organised show, thats why I miss it. Running costs rose over the years and I accepted the small price rises over the years because the show also grew over the years. BUT when the prices went up 50% and "value for money" went the other way, the show was doomed. It is the organisers right to do as he pleases with "his" show, it is our right to do as we please with "our" attendance. ...... I hope someone will come along soon and organise "our" show again for the future........ ....if not.... 🙂

Looks like they put on something else this year......

Did anyone manage to record the comments before they were erased? Is there another site where the W&P 2023 is being discussed?

Looking for the ghost of the engineroom 😃 .... another ghost is the one that hides nuts and bolts when you have taken things apart ... Everting always works when you look at it. At least you found out, that there was no serious problem. If it still happens now and again, you can solve it like I suggested earlier or use a spring between the fuel line and the dip-stick.

Even if the rubber bit fits fairly loosly into the tube, it still should stay in place. It does not matter that the rubber bit can revolve on the dip-stick, just as long as it stays in the same position lengthwise. Have you tried to see what happens to the dip-stick when the engine is running? Start engine, rev it up a bit and see how the dip-stick behaves. If it starts to climb out of the tubing, try to remove the oil filler cap, and push the dip-stick back into place, repeat the procedure and rev the engine again and see if it happens again. Have you checked the tube and valve from the valve cover to intake manifold for function? If the dip-stick starts to climb out of the tubing even with the oilcap removed, then it is not overpressure in the crankcase causing it. A quick fix is to slightly squeeze/pinch the tube close to the top. Just so much that the rubber bit on the dip-stick will stay in place when engine is running, but not so much that the rubber bit comes off the dip-stick when you pull it.

It does not seem too loose. Is it bent so it can catch the crankshaft if installed "wrong"? Test this by turning the dip-stick round when engine is running. If it catches the crankshaft and gets pushed out, then make a note of where the position is. Examine the dip-stick and see where the strike marks are. Re-shape the dip-stick so it does not catch. The dip-stick should now stay in place. If the oil level is too high (above full mark) then you could theoreticly have the dip-stick move upwards when engine is running. But I would think that the level would then be much too high. Did you check for "blow through" ? It is normal to hear some noise, but loud puffing, and exhaust fumes should not be present.

The dip-stick should stay in place as long as it fits snug and the "lid" has been pushed into place when installed after checking oil level. If the engine has too much "blow.through" from the pistons, for the ventilator valve and tube to cope with, maybe the ventilator valve or tube is blocked. With engine running, remove the filler cap. If there is much excess pressure coming out in bursts, it could be one of the pistons has broken rings. If the air coming out also smells much like exhaust, that is also a bad sign. if so, check compression on all 4 cylinders. Let us know what you find out of. Christian

Here is a simple diagram.

Thanks for this update. good to hear some shows are still on the way up.

bendix (1).pdf This may help. They are both correct.

I used 2 universal 24 volt 20 Amp. relays one for each circuit (high / low beam). That way it was easy and cheap to install. I placed the relays by the lights using the original leads (high / low) to the lights as "activator" leads to the relays. You need to choose which light you want to use as the source, and then use new leads to both headlights high / low beam. (if you don't want to cut the original leads) The fuse used is placed in the new power lead that goes to the relays (supply to the actual bulbs). The normal current used when the lights are on high beam will be the highest When you use H4 70/75 watt bulbs. the current will be : (2x75) / 24 = 6,25 Amp. But you need a bigger fuse than that to ensure constant supply. I used 15 Amp fuse in a 2,5mm# tincoated lead (remember lead has to be able to support a bigger current than the fuse). Its a bit "oversize" but I did not want to use a flimsy 1mm# that actually could do the job and I did not have any 1,5 mm#. This ensures supply and still protects against short circuit of the installation, as your light switch thermal relay now is no longer connected in the current going to the the actual bulbs, but it will protect against short circuit in the "activator" leads (the original leads to the high / low beam) All this can seem a bit confuseing (sorry about the punn) I will try to draw a simple curcuit diagram that you can follow if needed. NB. the installation also protects the contacts in the lightswitch - main and high/low foot switch - against the bigger current and arcing when lights are switched on/off.

Have you solved the problem yet? if so please post the cause and solution to the problem. Have A1 and A2 but never had the problem, so would be nice to know if/when it happens.

If you install LED lights there should be no problem with too much current for the thermal fuse in the light switch.

I posted this relply in another thread on the same subject in electrics: Hi. I have changed to standard 7" headlamps with normal bulbs. No problem as they are equal to sealed beam in Watt. Remember, if you change to H4 halogen bulbs (70 watt), you may gaet a problem with the thermal fuse in the light switch. So if you go for those H4, you should fit a relay and fuse the power to the bulbs on a seperate lead. Use the original light leas to activate the light relay. experience shows you get a "black out" while driving at night - scary on a country lane. 🙂

Hi. I have changed to standard 7" headlamps with normal bulbs. No problem as they are equal to sealed beam in Watt. Remember, if you change to H4 halogen bulbs (70 watt), you may gaet a problem with the thermal fuse in the light switch. So if you go for those H4, you should fit a relay and fuse the power to the bulbs on a seperate lead. Use the original light leas to activate the light relay. experience shows you get a "black out" while driving at night - scary on a country lane. 🙂

Sad times for the show. I too think it is lost and never will be resurrected by those who put it in the grave. Word has got around in the MV circles here on the continent also. Talking of alternatives, there is a show - Military Days -here in Denmark in September. It is at the Panzermuseum East museum in Slagelse. The museum is a cold war museum with mainly eastern block exhibits. I will post more on the site here for shows, but until then, you can see more about the museum and show here: www.panzermuseumeast.dk and the show : MILITARY DAYS - PANZERMUSEUM EAST @ "snowdrop358" Looking forward to meeting you in SEP 🙂

BC312...sorry the sarcasm in my post was not evident 🙂