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Landrover series 3 FFR alternators


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Ok, as you all prob know i have had an issue with the alternator not charging. the light on and the batteries dying after prolonged use.

 

I checked the power and there is 2x 12V power pins live in the the lead that goes to the alternator. so i assume its the alternator!

 

I sourced another that i though was the same! its not! great!

 

Mine was a mk2, this a mk3

 

the donar FFR i took it from had the lead mounted on the top facing section of the unit, min is on the bottom. I looked at the item and realised you can move the mounts. which i did! but the Lead pins are shorted in the mk3 and will not mate!

 

Can i change parts around on these units? or is it best to find a correct MK alternator?

 

Most people seem to think its the distributor box with issues, as the alternators dont really fail....

 

Can any one help my fault finding skills or "lack" of

 

Paul

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Paul,

 

If you want to fit the mk 3 alternator I think you will also have to change your generator panel to the later one. Te later panel will work with either alternator but the mk 3 alternator will only work on the later panel. I'd have swapped the panel first, easier to do and you'd soon know which unit had failed.

 

Chris

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Paul. Don't worry about the mk of alternator. Mk A, Mk 1 & Mk 2 all had a 3-phase output to run power tools. The only Rover to have this was the airportable 1-ton. The Mk 3 alternator merely ommitted these connections on the socket, although they had more modern diodes

 

Read the All Charged Up articles 1 & 3 at

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=38&board=58.0

 

Most faults are due to tings like crushed cables, bust pins & particularly unsoldered joints on the plug pins.

 

Is the wiring original or has someone pratted around & replaced/modified wiring. Do check the earth connections are correct on the shunt box, sometimes they get undone.

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fixed it!

 

the earth straps on the shun box had been cut! handy!

 

and one of the pins had popped from the soldering at the alternator end. now the batteries go from 12v to 14v when you rev the engine.. so i have charge! at last! just going to take for a run and charge them up nicely!

 

thanks for tha advice everyone :-D

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Excellent news Paul. What is often forgotten about the -ve side of the shunt box & regulator panel is that internally it is floating with respect to earth & must be externally earthed, as you have discovered. Good man, you can post me the tea & biscuits :-D

 

Enjoy your run but of course you should have a hand throttle, after all the thing was designed for static charging.

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if you change mind give me a call can get you in :-D

 

 

Maybe next year, if your report on it is good. I'm sort of out of show mood now its colder & unpacked stuff thinking the season is over :cry: Also behind on an article I'm doing but slowed up with building work dragging on & not easily able to get to my books to refer to.

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