OZITIM Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Hi Guys, After building the new engine from an new engine block, it seems to run well. Starts easily, idles well and revs fine. It doesnt blow smoke and settles into a really nice beat. Despite that, I am not happy with how much torque is being generated. In First, second and third gears I cruise down the road quite fine, it engages into gear really well. But as I go up into fourth and fifth gear, it loses torque and you can feel the vehicle begin to labour. In fifth, it simply cant keep up the speed. I took it for some bush trials and when climbing steep inclines (a reasonable slope), in first gear it will begin to labour and then come to a complete halt. The things im thinking, 1. maybe I have my mechanical timing out by a couple of teeth, but why does the engine run so well (no backfiring, revs well, idles fine) 2. Maybe its not getting enough fuel. The carby is NOS set to factory settings. Revs well. 3. Maybe the fluid coupling has an issue. Im using dextron III, which, Ive had not issue with in the Saracen. Some are probably going to gasp at the notion of using Dextron III. 4. Maybe the transmission is slipping, but I have adjusted it and it engages with the typical clunk and initiall engagement that I would suspect. Their is no winding noise, like the bands are slipping, even when I try to drive up an incline, it just stops, and the transmission isnt winding, so, Im pretty confident it isnt that. I am doing the correct start up proceedure, if anything, I am doing it twice. Other than that, I simply cant explain why this is happening. Please, any advice from those more learned than me in this area. Many Regards, OZITIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Hi Guys, After building the new engine from an new engine block, it seems to run well. Starts easily, idles well and revs fine. It doesnt blow smoke and settles into a really nice beat. Despite that, I am not happy with how much torque is being generated. In First, second and third gears I cruise down the road quite fine, it engages into gear really well. But as I go up into fourth and fifth gear, it loses torque and you can feel the vehicle begin to labour. In fifth, it simply cant keep up the speed. I took it for some bush trials and when climbing steep inclines (a reasonable slope), in first gear it will begin to labour and then come to a complete halt. The things im thinking, 1. maybe I have my mechanical timing out by a couple of teeth, but why does the engine run so well (no backfiring, revs well, idles fine) 2. Maybe its not getting enough fuel. The carby is NOS set to factory settings. Revs well. 3. Maybe the fluid coupling has an issue. Im using dextron III, which, Ive had not issue with in the Saracen. Some are probably going to gasp at the notion of using Dextron III. 4. Maybe the transmission is slipping, but I have adjusted it and it engages with the typical clunk and initiall engagement that I would suspect. Their is no winding noise, like the bands are slipping, even when I try to drive up an incline, it just stops, and the transmission isnt winding, so, Im pretty confident it isnt that. I am doing the correct start up proceedure, if anything, I am doing it twice. Other than that, I simply cant explain why this is happening. Please, any advice from those more learned than me in this area. Many Regards, OZITIM Tim, If you just rebuilt the engine, it could still be really tight. Or maybe even have a problem like ring gaps too small so the ends butt when it heats up. But that should be quite obvious as you would notice it being reluctant to idle or rev due to binding right after it petered out during the first gear hill climb. When it's good and hot, turn it over with the fan to see if it's unusually hard to turn compared to cold. You definitely need to check ignition timing. I worked on a Ferret that had the timing set 90 degrees BTDC. :shocked: That means it's firing when the pistons are only half-way up the cylinder on the compression stroke. And yet it still ran with no back-firing. Not well, but it ran. The inertia of the massive rotating assembly on these engines allows them to keep running under conditions where a more modern engine would quit. Best way is to mark #1 TDC on the crank pulley and make up a non-screened piece of plug wire so you can use a clamp-on timing light. Carb sounds like it's set up OK, but you need to check the throttle plates are opening fully when you floor the gas pedal. I had another Ferret where someone had been messing with the linkage and the throttle plates were only going half open. Sounds like you were basically stalling the engine on that first gear hill climb so the fluid coupling was working fine. We use Dexron III with no problems. Slipping bands in the transmission would give you the opposite problem as you say, engine spinning up with no increase in speed. Could be brakes binding as they heat up. Feel the wheel rims when it's been driven for a while. A few people should be able to push the Ferret on level ground when it's cold or hot. Or test for free-wheeling down a slight slope. Check hub and bevel boxes for high temps after a run. Long shot but if they are out of oil... Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Yep, I'd check that the throttle is opening fully and then re-check the ignition timing - if you haven't already, consider fitting a Jolley kit. As everything is rebuilt/NOS, ensure that the dizzy is lubed properly and that it is advancing as it should - it could be as simple as it sticking somewhere. Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Check brakes are not binding, wheel cylinders on Ferrets are renowned for seizure. Also don't let the engine labour, change down rather than let it slog in a high gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZITIM Posted March 31, 2016 Author Share Posted March 31, 2016 I've redone all the brakes and jacked the whole ferret up and put it on stands and then ran it. The wheels are definitely not binding. As you say, cant be the fluid coupling, and not the brake bands, as that would create an altogether different expereince when in first gear climbing, lots of revs, but, I got the opposite. I will check the carb again, as that might be an issue. And I will check the distributor again. I guess Im leaning back to the mechanical timing. I think I must have that just out. I need to go back through the whole timing procedure again. Thanks for all of your input. I will update you on how it goes. In the meantime, when your passing through Cairns in Far North Queensland, pop in for a beer. Regards OZITIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZITIM Posted March 31, 2016 Author Share Posted March 31, 2016 Mal, Im going to try your non-screened lead idea. Great idea. You guys are the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZITIM Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 Terry, I think you might be onto something. I checked the timing with the timing light yesterday and the mechanical timing is perfect. Im going to set it at 10 degress before TDC. I think my loss of torque problem might be associated with the Centrifugal advance. I will check that through the week. The more I think about it, it makes sense that this might be the problem. Such a relief that the timing is right. Although I check and recheck everything, its generally no indication that it is set right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Let me know how you get on, Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeferret Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Good luck Tim..Let us now how you progress.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZITIM Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Terry, your a genious. I stripped down the Distributor and it was bone dry. Gave it a bit of a lube, put it back together and now it runs awesome. Its got so much pull, it nearly strips the paint off. AFter fully building the engine, I guess I was more inclined to look for major problems rather than minor. But, this time, the issue was simple. Driving it now is an awesome experience. Just got to sort out the eternal leaking bevel box saga. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Good to hear, mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.