Kloud Nine Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 The saga continues........ Well I fixed up the manifold, no blowing now. I left Norwich at 9 this morning, arrived in Cambridge at 4.30, driving 3 miles at a time and letting the old girl cool in between. Took the thermostat out halfway but she still overheated. Going to get the rad flushed tomorrow, lots of sludge on the cap. Just a thought, I fitted one of Frank Jolley's electronic ignition kits and high power coil over the winter. I wonder if that might be adding to the problem? C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matchlesswdg3 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 The saga continues........Well I fixed up the manifold, no blowing now. I left Norwich at 9 this morning, arrived in Cambridge at 4.30, driving 3 miles at a time and letting the old girl cool in between. Took the thermostat out halfway but she still overheated. Going to get the rad flushed tomorrow, lots of sludge on the cap. Just a thought, I fitted one of Frank Jolley's electronic ignition kits and high power coil over the winter. I wonder if that might be adding to the problem? C. I would have thought that good ignition would be better for engine temps, but I recall hearing that modern petrol mixes burn hotter than those of yore. However, rad flushing is surely a good idea before having to resort to anything more drastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armouredfarmer Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Hi I have recently aquired a K9 and also appear to have overheating problems. I am getting water out of the filler cap as opposed to the over pressure valve is this the same on yours or is it possible that my filler cap is not sealing properly do you think? I did find that the water temperature was not that high, after about 5 mins of stranding it felt only warm when i put my finger in it, although the temp gauge was showing 212 F when I pulled over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kloud Nine Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 My filler cap seals ok, at idle/ fast idle the temp drops, at 30mph it will boil in around 3-4 miles, if I pull over and let her idle again she'll drop to 70c in a few minutes. Mine has other issues though, a large crack near the last bolt hole on the exhaust manifold no. 6 cylinder for one.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcot1751 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I had similar problems with my WC52 when I took the rad off I could barely lift it ! Seventy plus years of silt meant it wasn't circulating. After that was done no more problems, I also run Water Wetter in my older vehicles, which lowers the temperature too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armouredfarmer Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Maybe I dont have an overheating problem as such then, when yours boils does it discharge water through the pressure releif valve? The only way I knew I had a problem was because the dizzy got covered in water from the filler cap and the engine cut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kloud Nine Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 It did when it hit 110 c! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kloud Nine Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 I fixed the head up to a hosepipe yesterday and flushed her out for a couple of hours, letting the water out at different points. There seemed to be a good flow. At some point someone has fitted a heater box which sits about 3 inches above the filler cap. The top pipe being around 6 inches higher than that. I'm wondering if that could have caused an airlock in the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 The radiator filler cap or header tank filler cap needs to be the highest point of the cooling system including the heater. As a temporary measure, bypass the heater by running one the pipes straight back to the engine and this should cure the airlock. If this works you will either need to move the heater to a lower position remove it completely and blank off the flow and return pipes on the engine or keep the heater and fit a header tank. If you fit a header tank, the radiator cap is not a pressure cap but the one on the header tank is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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